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Go Back   Fun In B.C. > All about your Ride > General 4x4 Discussion

General 4x4 Discussion General discussion and questions that would apply to all makes.

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  #1  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:39 PM
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Doing it wrong

So a theory question.

Do u think i could get buy for a couple months of pavement only driving.

If i were too use gr8 aloy rod cut to stud size for temporary high steer arm connection

I ask because funds are real low right now and i just cant afford the extra 130 bucks for 1/2 20 arp studs.

Im real close but wanna be real frugal cuz i know how things go with builds and how things just come up
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  #2  
Old 09-19-2013, 09:50 PM
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wish i could say . but i know about being broke and sometimes you have to get creative my friend to get by .
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  #3  
Old 09-19-2013, 10:39 PM
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I dont see why not. What do you think OEM uses. Grade 8 studs
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:14 PM
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Thinking if i take it easy and keep a torque wrench on me i could get away a little
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:54 PM
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why not just get propper stud kit for it? It doesnt have to be ARP. Last time I bought a set I think it was 30 or 40 bucks with cones washers and nuts
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Old 09-20-2013, 04:32 AM
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oem studs or arp, nothing else. unless you are running keyed after market knuckles.
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  #7  
Old 09-20-2013, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by epic3 View Post
why not just get propper stud kit for it? It doesnt have to be ARP. Last time I bought a set I think it was 30 or 40 bucks with cones washers and nuts



Already have the gr8 rod and dont wanna waste any cash buying things twice
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:44 AM
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I'm not sure if you can get the cones on their own tho. The factory studs have two thread pitches to em. Coarse for in the knuckle and fine for the nut
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:51 AM
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You are going to be driving blondie and little dude around in it
Steering and brakes are not the places to try saving a few bucks
Maybe the all thread will be ok or it will fuck up your arms or knuckle
The studs have a shoulder that is larger dia than the threads
That's what the cones lock onto
So could wiggle around and loosen off
Resulting in loss of steering and everything kingpin out exiting stage left
Or right
So don't do it
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4skin View Post
You are going to be driving blondie and little dude around in it
Steering and brakes are not the places to try saving a few bucks
Maybe the all thread will be ok or it will fuck up your arms or knuckle
The studs have a shoulder that is larger dia than the threads
That's what the cones lock onto
So could wiggle around and loosen off
Resulting in loss of steering and everything kingpin out exiting stage left
Or right
So don't do it
good advice
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  #11  
Old 09-20-2013, 01:35 PM
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Crap. All good points


The arms are what im told designed to use wheel lug nuts
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Old 09-20-2013, 02:04 PM
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those are the nuts tho not the studs. Like I said above tho the factory hardware isnt expensive
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:09 AM
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If u use the rod be sure to chase the threads after u bevel, It is very easy to crossthread the knuckle hole, and a quality lug nut can be used but not ideal...different taper
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Old 09-21-2013, 09:13 AM
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I actually don't know about the lug nut thing
What grade are lug nuts ???? 5 maybe seem pretty soft compared to a grade 8
And aren't proper knuckle studs course thread on knuckle
Side and fine on nut side?
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  #15  
Old 09-21-2013, 11:03 AM
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i hAVE lug nuts on the high steer on my power wagon havent losend off in 10 years and i have a spacer block

look at this way there is way more force on your wheel in a corner on the hwy at 110 kph then the high steer studs will ever see so lug nuts are perfectly fine
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