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Go Back   Fun In B.C. > All about your Ride > Jeep Talk

Jeep Talk The only true 4x4

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  #1  
Old 11-17-2011, 04:05 PM
Hellboy Hellboy is offline
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Jeep rear fender trimming

So, I got the idea for trimming the rear fenders from this thread on jeepforum:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/w...enders-632436/

I had a few different issues than he did, pertaining to rust, however I got a fix for that too.

I started off by jacking up the truck to get some room to work, and removing the factory plastic fenders, and getting out my sawzall. It doesn't matter if you break the old rusted nuts they mounted them with, if you do it my way. Anyway a few things to remember, don't cut through the pinch welds holding the quarter panel and the fender well together (mine rusted off, so I'll show you how to fix that if you do mess up or yours are rusted), and don't cut to high, you want to go about 1/8" below the second bodyline (so that it folds right)



Then I started cutting the fender, the previous picture is already cut, and I have a close up as well.



Once I had all the cuts made, I got out my hammer. I then bent all the tabs I made up inside the fenderwell and flat onto the surface inside.






Then I got out my tramclad rust-paint (again just lying around from when I painted my whole truck...) and painted all the black that previously didn't get painted cause I was to lazy to remove the fenders, and because it was rusty as hell under there. Remember to lightly sand the surface a bit and use wax and grease remover before painting, if you do paint. I skipped sanding because I'm lazy and I just finished hammering it so it was rough enough.




Now, about that rust that was seperating my quarter panel and my fender-well, and letting mud fly into my cargo area (or behind your interior if you havn't removed yours like I did)

I got some 1/4-20 hardware:
- bolts that were 1-1/2" long
-1/4" ready rod
-nuts (remember you need 2 nuts for ready rod)
-fender washers

I just have 5 gallon buckets of the stuff lying around from work, but if you need to buy them their not that expensive. I drilled some 1/4" holes (duh) and just used the nuts and bolts to squeeze the panels back together, using a fender washer on the bolt head side and the nut side. After their tight, grind excess threads off so your tire doesn't hit them (I did this after pics)




And..... done. Just tek-screw the fender back on and if you care alot go ahead and get a black sharpie to color the tek heads... I didn't, this is a bush truck not a Rolls.



I also took the time to remove the factory mud flaps, and relocate them in a way that makes them cover the whole tire instead of leaving 4-inches uncovered. They just cover it... I'll be make some better ones later but hey it'll get me through the newbie run without a mudflap ticket at least..






End result:
I fixed my rust issues and moved my fender up 1.5" for a little more clearance. It also got me motivated while the tools were out to fix my mudflaps and fix that stupid rear hatch once and for all. That and I kinda like the way it turned out and it was better than warming the couch playing MW3
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Old 11-17-2011, 05:37 PM
BuckNaked BuckNaked is offline
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looks good man, i just sawzalled as much as possible completely off and welded some random sheet metal on, didnt put the flares back on and gained a solid 4 inches of clearance, i also cut the shit out of the front and gained at least another 4 or 5 yours looks purdy though
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:10 PM
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Trailjunkie Trailjunkie is offline
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i trim fold then roll then get out the sludge hammer and shape
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Old 11-17-2011, 06:19 PM
Hellboy Hellboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckNaked View Post
looks good man, i just sawzalled as much as possible completely off and welded some random sheet metal on, didnt put the flares back on and gained a solid 4 inches of clearance, i also cut the shit out of the front and gained at least another 4 or 5 yours looks purdy though
Thats what i would do if i had a welder
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