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View Full Version : '89 xj lift recommendations??


BuckNaked
01-29-2009, 10:50 PM
I am planning on lifting my xj anywhere from 4.5 to 6.5 inches not reallya fan of bodylifts, I'm just trying to figure out an approximate price for a good lift and what an appropriate tire size would be? any adive would be appreciated[cheers]
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Tunabomber
01-29-2009, 10:55 PM
can you even do a body lift on a xj [wako]

D-Ass
01-30-2009, 12:12 AM
what the hell you talking about you have seen robos':happy0045:

http://www.funinbc.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=99741&stc=1&d=1232331688

D-Ass
01-30-2009, 12:15 AM
do it right the first time get a RE long arm it is worth it in the long run[cheers]

vajayjay
01-30-2009, 05:25 AM
It's kind of hard to do a body lift on a unibody

bryceyoda
01-30-2009, 07:03 AM
im happy with my rubicon express 4.5 with sway bar discos

Mr Vic
01-30-2009, 07:21 AM
should really go for a long arm kit, Rubicon express or clayton hard arm kits. you would be running 33's, 35's with trimming. and dont forget SYE and cv driveshaft

Chris.S.
01-30-2009, 07:46 AM
From what I know of xj's you can't do a bodylift on them (unibody construction) and Rubicon express has the best kits by far. Over 4" lift and you'll want a long arm kit as well all sorts of other goodies like extended brake lines possibly new driveshafts and a slip yoke eliminator (for the record-I don't ven know what a "slip yoke eliminator" is-my info comes from a friend who's building on an xj) but 4" or less saves a lot upgrading...

Tinker
01-30-2009, 08:26 AM
From what I know of xj's you can't do a bodylift on them (unibody construction) and Rubicon express has the best kits by far. Over 4" lift and you'll want a long arm kit as well all sorts of other goodies like extended brake lines possibly new driveshafts and a slip yoke eliminator (for the record-I don't even know what a "slip yoke eliminator" is-my info comes from a friend who's building on an xj) but 4" or less saves a lot upgrading...

On the back of your t-case, the stock drive shaft "slips into" or onto the output spline. When you get the S.Y.E. you replace the spline of the t-case so a yoke can be put in place and then your drive shaft bolts to it. It increases the amount of angle the drive shaft can be run at. You also need to replace the drive shaft with a cv style shaft.

BuckNaked
01-30-2009, 04:42 PM
On the back of your t-case, the stock drive shaft "slips into" or onto the output spline. When you get the S.Y.E. you replace the spline of the t-case so a yoke can be put in place and then your drive shaft bolts to it. It increases the amount of angle the drive shaft can be run at. You also need to replace the drive shaft with a cv style shaft.

why do you need to replace the driveshafts? I understand the S.Y.E. but not why I'd have to run a cv style shaft, also cant figure out why my text is slightly slanted all of the sudden
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B
01-30-2009, 04:52 PM
why do you need to replace the driveshafts? I understand the S.Y.E. but not why I'd have to run a cv style shaft, also cant figure out why my text is slightly slanted all of the sudden


because your current d/s is a slip style at the tcase and the new angle will need a cv to take up the angle so as to not have bad vibration's [cheers]


as opposed to good vibes ;)

Happypants
01-30-2009, 06:26 PM
good lift kits are rubicon, clayton, poly performance, stay the fuck away from rough country and other half assed lift kits, you cant do a body lift on a xj unless your as creative as robo, tire size depends on what you wanna cut out of your fenders, i had a 3.5" lift with 33`s on my jeep locked in the rear and went everywhere, now i have a 7.5" lift with 36`s, its better to have big meaty tires and a mild lift compaired to having a 2ft lift and big tires for better COG, if your gonna keep the stock axels, dont go bigger than a 35, perferably a 33 especially if your not gonna re-gear your axels you need a sye done i can do them in a little over a hour if ya pull the case and drain it, lemme know, You need to run a cv style shaft like your front shaft in the rear to help the angle of the driveshaft and pinion otherwise use diff shims, which IMO are fucking stupid, or cut the perches off and tilt your rear axle up toward the t-case a degree or 2 then weld new ones back on,

D-Ass
01-30-2009, 06:38 PM
whitetrashxj good lift kits are rubicon, clayton, poly performance, stay the fuck away from rough country and other half assed lift kits, you cant do a body lift on a xj unless your as creative as robo, tire size depends on what you wanna cut out of your fenders, i had a 3.5" lift with 33`s on my jeep locked in the rear and went everywhere, now i have a 7.5" lift with 36`s, its better to have big meaty tires and a mild lift compaired to having a 2ft lift and big tires for better COG, if your gonna keep the stock axels, dont go bigger than a 35, perferably a 33 especially if your not gonna re-gear your axels you need a sye done i can do them in a little over a hour if ya pull the case and drain it, lemme know, You need to run a cv style shaft like your front shaft in the rear to help the angle of the driveshaft and pinion otherwise use diff shims, which IMO are fucking stupid, or cut the perches off and tilt your rear axle up toward the t-case a degree or 2 then weld new ones back on,



WTF do you know!!!!asshole2



haha jk[f]

Mr Vic
01-30-2009, 07:15 PM
this is a regular slip yoke style driveshaft, jeeps most common version on t he left

http://video.crapbarn.com/image/misc/jeep_ds.jpg

this is how it looks when installed, it slips into the rear output, cone shaped peice of the t-case



http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/engine/jskmounts01/done.jpg


slip yoke elimater kit installed on np 231 t case, notics how the cone peice is removed and the output is much shorter.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/kylee8o8/sye3.jpg

Made.U.Look
01-30-2009, 11:10 PM
I did it right this time with a 5.5 RE long arm that way I can go higher when I get bored with it ( thanks B / Jeap Thrills ) [36] [36]

Happypants
01-31-2009, 09:30 AM
this is a regular slip yoke style driveshaft, jeeps most common version on t he left

http://video.crapbarn.com/image/misc/jeep_ds.jpg

this is how it looks when installed, it slips into the rear output, cone shaped peice of the t-case



http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/engine/jskmounts01/done.jpg


slip yoke elimater kit installed on np 231 t case, notics how the cone peice is removed and the output is much shorter.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/kylee8o8/sye3.jpg

the coned outputs on the t-cases love to snap in half when you toss a driveshaft or 3,

BuckNaked
01-31-2009, 11:35 AM
kickass thanks for everyones input I'm definately going rubicon or clayton. I was planning on just rewelding the perches and tilting my axel rather then replacing the driveshaft or is that jut another half ass shortcut cause I wanna do everything the right way the first time haha
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Arnee
01-31-2009, 11:57 AM
kickass thanks for everyones input I'm definately going rubicon or clayton. I was planning on just rewelding the perches and tilting my axel rather then replacing the driveshaft or is that jut another half ass shortcut cause I wanna do everything the right way the first time haha

i'm pretty sure you can still to that but. but with your lift in you need alonger drive shaft also.

B
01-31-2009, 12:34 PM
kickass thanks for everyones input I'm definately going rubicon or clayton. I was planning on just rewelding the perches and tilting my axel rather then replacing the driveshaft or is that jut another half ass shortcut cause I wanna do everything the right way the first time haha

even still there is not enought room for the u joint to spin, it will bind when the rear droops at least ... [cheers]

Tinker
02-02-2009, 03:17 PM
the coned outputs on the t-cases love to snap in half when you toss a driveshaft or 3,

Ask Hotwheels about that one!

100810

BuckNaked
02-02-2009, 04:55 PM
I would prefer that didnt happen to me:)
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Happypants
02-02-2009, 08:12 PM
lol yup, thats why i had to do a sye on mine lol, broke the dam thing

BuckNaked
03-05-2009, 10:47 PM
so im buying 5.5 inch R.E long arm kit, thinking 33's will fit nicely, wanted to go for either a pitbull rocker or bfg km2 just wondering what anyones experience with either tire was like or what anyones heard of them??
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B
03-05-2009, 10:51 PM
km2's are a great street tire i haven't seen any little pitbulls at work on a trail yet they gotta be better than the bfg offroad

BuckNaked
03-05-2009, 11:01 PM
yea ive heard km2s are a really good all around tires but i would agree that pitbulls probly perform better offroad, not too sure if the jeeps gonna be a daily driver anymore so that will probly be a deciding factor hah
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Ginger Snaps
03-05-2009, 11:27 PM
it looks to me that maybe the pitbulls wont clean out aswell... Id go with a sx your truck is not heavy so they wont wear fast even a groved tsl, iroks are good. I just wouldnt try out a pitbull till seeing them in action.

B
03-05-2009, 11:32 PM
it looks to me that maybe the pitbulls wont clean out aswell... Id go with a sx your truck is not heavy so they wont wear fast even a groved tsl, iroks are good. I just wouldnt try out a pitbull till seeing them in action.


smallest iroc is a 36 ;) sx's will work awesome not reallt a dd tire thou [cheers]

Ginger Snaps
03-05-2009, 11:52 PM
and rockers would be a good dd tire? what about an ltb or truxus mt...

jeffh
03-06-2009, 10:15 AM
if you can find anyone with KM2's in stock right now then you are ahead of the game. theres no 35's in any canadian BFG warehouse ATm

fwiw im very happy with my 3.5 RE lift with 31's and an aussie in the rear
im still pretty new to this stuff tho

Arnee
03-09-2009, 04:03 PM
smallest iroc is a 36 ;) sx's will work awesome not reallt a dd tire thou [cheers]

:dontknow: :dontknow: yea there heavy fuckers