View Full Version : any brake experts here

01-09-2009, 09:42 PM
having trouble with my brakes dragging when i engage my hubs and sometimes even when i'm just cruising in 2 wheel drive. new calipers new rotors new hubs new brake pads new spindles are new its a d60 king pin front axel. any ideas would be appreciated.

01-09-2009, 09:47 PM
check your flex lines

01-10-2009, 12:26 AM
flexible brake lines can cause this problem

01-10-2009, 12:09 PM
there new also all the lines have been changed everything only old piece under the front is the piece of steel that holds the caliper and the stub shaft every other possible piece has been changed to new not rebuilt new.

dirka dave
01-10-2009, 01:30 PM
master cylinder ???

01-10-2009, 05:53 PM
new master and brake booster.
this is why i am so confused...

01-10-2009, 09:34 PM
are you sure it is the brakes draging and not say a dust shield or somthing?

01-10-2009, 10:08 PM
This might be a dumbarsed question but I"lll ask it anyways, have you ever taken the bearings apart in the front end of the truck ? Seriously, too much preload can cause some heat issues to arise.

01-11-2009, 09:39 AM
i have taken it to 2 shops and had them tear it apart and put it back together they stumped also. i would hope they set em up correct.

i have bent the dust shields as far away as i can theres at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch of space between the rotors and dust shield. i have replaced the caliper 3 times brake pads twice bearings spindles.s

when it first started it was just when i engaged the hubs now it has progressed to where it starts to make noise when just driving in 2 wheel drive.
i drive say from my place on westside to shanes place on rutland road and its heating up but if i lock the hub i go about 1 block and its making a grinding noise and the rotor is so hot it'll blister your hand.

01-11-2009, 10:39 AM
had this problem before,replace the flex hoses they re plugged inside and not lettin the fluid to go back to release the caliper ,,,pretty easy fix hey!!

01-11-2009, 10:49 AM
it is only the passenger side that is doing it should i still change both or just the one?

01-11-2009, 11:20 AM
go crazy and change both ! flush out the brake fluid if u can i think its the moisture in the fluid that cause the brake lines to fail ...ever wonder why a steel brake line filled with oil would rust???

01-11-2009, 12:06 PM
this truck has had pretty much entire brake system rebuilt within the last 6 months all lines hoses everything i didn't have a front drive shaft in untill aproximately 1 month ago and it started only doing this when i locked the hubs i thought maybe spindle bearings where shot so i bought new spindles had a shop put em in as i do not have a press. that didn't fix it so i thought must be a faulty caliper got another one on exchange didn't change the problem at all so i changed the booster and master figured must be from lack of or to much vacuum pressure no change took it to another shop they took it apart checked bearings and replaced caliper and pads as pads had cracked from the heat they also changed the caliper shim and spring this seemed to help for about a week but i only tried to use the 4x4 once or twice first time was ok 2nd time started to make grinding noise again so i figured i would come back here and see what thoughts you guys have. i'll try putting another new set of flex lines in hopefully it works if not its a cheap piece and wouldn't hurt to have an extra as there just rubber.

01-11-2009, 10:49 PM
is it for sure the calipers dragging? if not and it is another part of the brakes causing un wanted friction. l would say see about getting it dusty or paint just about everything or do what you can so if you were to drive for a few blocks to heat everything up if there was unwanted contact it would have caused a new mark or clean spot.

but to me it does seem like the piston is not retracting into the caliper.

dirka dave
01-11-2009, 11:19 PM

01-12-2009, 04:01 PM
i can see where it is changing the color of the new rotor to a burned look and the brake pad is showing wear already. and the only pieces that seems to get hot are the rotor and caliper. i am figuring maybe the steel piece that holds the caliper is warped? i am really confused as it just affecting the passenger side.

01-12-2009, 06:02 PM
really sounds like a caliper but there could be some shit in the residual valve other than measuring to make sure both sides are the same could be a shit hub casting or whatever good luck bud

01-13-2009, 12:19 PM
Have you tried checking the proportioning valve? It might have some dirt or something in it and not allowing the fluid to flow back to the resevour.

01-13-2009, 12:36 PM
other than the proportioning valve l would say it has to be the caliper or fitting from the line to the caliper is clogger or somthing. but l would say that is a long shot.

is it a re-manufatrurd caliper or what

01-13-2009, 05:44 PM
I'd say you just got a bad caliper, that's all. It's not that uncommon to have new parts fail these days. I put a set of new wheel cylinders in the back of my Dakota a couple years ago, go to bleed the brakes and just as pressure starts to build I hear POP. One of the wheel cylinders blew out, took it out and found a bunch of sandy residue in it, most of the jobber shit we buy has terrible quality control. Just because a part is new doesn't mean you can trust it.

01-13-2009, 11:14 PM
i have changed that caliper 3 times so i am thinking it has to be something else i am gonna try changing the flex lines. if it was the porpotioning valve it would affect both front wheels wouldn't it? as it divides the pressure from front to back?

01-14-2009, 12:02 AM
I wouldn't think it's the prop valve, but it's possible. I guess the lines would be the next logical step

03-02-2009, 07:23 PM
well heres an update i took truck to budget brake and muffler on the westside they tore everything apart. calipers where checked rebuilt and then traded in for new ones again. both sides this time not just the suspect one. brake lines rubber and metal where replaced there was no change brake booster and master changed again still no change. only thing left to change is the porportioning valve which i have to wait till tommorrow or next day for one to show up from vancouver.

truck spent 6 hours in the shop today and is still in the same unusable shape as it was before it went there. on the good side they didn't charge me for the new calipers or for the resurfacing of the rotors or for any of the 6 hours they spent working on it. but on the shitty side the front passenger side brake still heats up and drags... i am really hopeing that changing the porportioning valve will do it but i really doubt it as there is just one line from the porportioning valve to the front axel and then it splits for right and left tire.. i am stumped aswell is the mechanics at the budget brake and muffler...
anyone have an idea please post it and i will try it.. thanks in advance

03-02-2009, 11:00 PM
Have all the sliding surfaces been thoroughly cleaned and lubed?

03-02-2009, 11:02 PM
they put so much lube on them today you could grease up 5 fat chicks and still have tons left over

03-03-2009, 11:01 AM
thats a tough one make sure you dont have any contaminated fluid, water and dirt in the brake fluid will do some major damage to the seals and flex hoses. definately try to flush it out. i would also check the master i know you have changed it but i've seen ALOT of faulty ones, take it off and make sure that fluid is pumping out but also being aloud back in....my first thought was sliders not being lubed but your last post confirms thats not the problem. the pads must be wearing fast from the heat buildup, are they wearing semi evenly? sloping pads? is the outside pad wearing faster? check the steel lines for any kinks or damage (rust even) i hope you solve this riddle man best of luck.

03-03-2009, 11:19 AM
drive truck till problem occours. Jack up, start removing parts until you find whats siezed or stuck on..... then replace that part or whats causing that part to be stuck on.

does it pull to the right at all? is the brake peddel returning all the way when released?

03-03-2009, 12:45 PM
My jeep has been doing the same thing for a couple months now. My drivers side front seizes up on me once and a while and won't let go until it cools down, then it could be fine for a few days. Only does it once and a while and has also happened on the right side a couple of times. Brake shop serviced the calipers and I've got new pads and rotors. They can't figure it out either. It's not the hubs either. Only the brakes get hot.

First I've heard of the proportioning valve theory... I'm interested to know if that works out for you.

03-03-2009, 01:55 PM
Check your spindle beaings. Not the axle bearings but the one inside the spindle that the axle rides on.

This is the only thing that i can think of that would cause the break / rotor to get scortching hot while in 4 wheel drive.

03-03-2009, 02:15 PM
the spindles are new also everything on the axels is new i just had the pumpkin rebuilt because i thought it might be coming from a bad bearing inthere or something. i did have the thought of changing the master cylinder again as it is the only piece beside the proportioning valve that i havn't changed multiple times... and yes when it starts to heat up it starts to cause a shimmy then it starts pullin to the right,,, but sometimes i go to rutland it pulls and heats up all the way there then i come back to westside and by the time i get to the bridge it braking straight again and alls working good then next time i go out it does it again.. all 4 wheel will gravity bleed without any troubles at all..

03-03-2009, 02:18 PM
just asking because the spindle bearings often get over looked.

03-03-2009, 02:22 PM
i have over looked something but i can't figure out what it is.. pads are wearing even but are wearing quicker then the other side plus are getting heat coloration both outer and inner wearing about the same no noticable sloping never actually checked em witha gauge or anything lines we're just all changed yesterday new again pretty sure theres no gunk in the fluid as its new and always from a sealed bottle.

03-03-2009, 09:37 PM
well i installed another new master cylinder and it didn't change anything. but since it was the only part i hadn't changed multiple times i figured for 50 bucks it was worth the try...but still pulls to the right and drags the brake...

03-04-2009, 04:02 PM
hmmm.... i dont know man... maybe the casting that holds the caliper is bent or broken, or poorly cast. that is the only thing that isnt directly a brake component but still connected to the caliper.

03-04-2009, 04:56 PM
i took it to midas on westside kelowna today and they coulldn't figure it out either they actually checked that piece of steel that holds the caliper for straightness. i talk to an older friend of my dads today 75 year old ex mechanic he said i didn't bleed the master cylinder correctly he said its a dodge it must be bled a certain way so he sent me a set of instructions on how to bleed the dodge brake system. lol so i gonna try his suggestions. will keeps ya informed on what find out

03-04-2009, 05:22 PM
How are you supposed to bleed the brakes on a dodge differently form any other vehicle? Ifs its easy for you, could you post up the instructions?


03-04-2009, 06:26 PM
step one if changing master cylinder bleed master in a vice
step two instal master to truck after bench bleed connect brake lines but do not tighten
step 3 push brake pedal to floor hold it there then tighten brake lines to the master
then go wheel to wheel starting at back right then back left then front right then front left unless it has rwal then you start at the rwal valve

03-04-2009, 06:41 PM
well that seems to have helped out a bit but now i seem to have a back brake locking up so i gonna bleed all the brakes at the wheel one more time and see if it makes any more of a diffrence it still pulls but no where near as bad as it was..

03-04-2009, 08:02 PM
good to hear man hopefully it all works out now

03-04-2009, 08:38 PM
check your proportioning valve..a slow releasing piston can cause fluid to remain pressurized in your lines

03-04-2009, 09:10 PM
No-one has seemed to mention the piston that pushes on the plunger in the master, If you remove the master, there will be a little rod sticking out of the brake booster that is threaded, if its threaded out to far it will maintain a constant pressure on your master, which in turn will keep a bit of pressure on your brakes. And then when they get hot things expand even more, putting more pressure on the brakes. Shorten that rod and give it a try, even alot of shops miss that one.

03-05-2009, 12:33 PM
i fixed it last night with the bleed proceedure up above i just had to bleed the wheels a couple times but now they working like new. :)

Punk in Drublic
03-05-2009, 01:47 PM
wholy fuck what an ordeal, good to hear ya got that shit figured out, gotta be the most expensive brake job ever.

03-05-2009, 01:56 PM
it cost me 1300 at budget rbake the first time 500 the second thenit cost 200 at midas not to mention 100 bucks plus taxes etc core deposits for the master plus new rotors 4 new calipers passenger side 2 new calipers drivers side all new lines twice rubber and metal and a new brake booster. i'd say all in all it was close to 3500 bucks

03-05-2009, 04:29 PM
nice work..thanks for posting that...

time to go break it again eh

03-05-2009, 05:50 PM
Ouch but that actually sounds like the normal way to bleed the master not just a dodge thing there is even a warning in the box when u get the master that it has to be bench bled. I had a problem with my clutch when I first got my truck and it sat for a while because I couldn't get it working turned out u had to take the slave off turn it up so the bleeder was up have someone push the clutch tighten bleeder and repeat a bunch of times.