View Full Version : Help bleeding brakes

12-23-2008, 03:23 PM
first of all, my brake system worked fantastic before ripping off a rear brake line due to my suspension falling apart. I had firm pedal feel before this happened.

In the meantime, I ran my master cylinder dry. I replaced my rear brake lines and bled them. I bled them about 20x each and about 10x each for the front. I was no longer getting air out of the system. Now when I use the brakes, they will stop the truck but the brakes will be on the floor. I dont have a master cylinder bleeding kit so would prefere to not pull my master.

further idea's??

12-23-2008, 04:10 PM
got er' done. Didnt realize the lspv needed bleeding

12-23-2008, 05:17 PM
for future knowledge it is easy to bleed a master cyclinder just get 2 brake lines about 6 - 8 inches long or get a foot long line and cut it in half bend in a half circle screw into master cyclinder and bend other end to go into the top of the m,aster cylinderwhen no more air bubbles up in the master then unhook the lines and hook up the ones to your brakes then bleed the porportioning valve and or the rwal if so equipt if not then bleed brakes at wheel cylinders and always remember to start at passenger side back then driver side back front passenger then front driver side.

dirka dave
12-23-2008, 06:48 PM
Gravity bleeding is the first step (if you haven't replaced your M/C)

1 fill up master

2 open up rear bleeders

3 have beer

4 close rear bleaders

4a check fluid

5 open front bleeders

6 have beer

6a close front bleeders

7 check fluid.


12-23-2008, 07:08 PM
Beer was the operative word in those instructions, thats the most important part.

12-23-2008, 10:42 PM
no matter what your bleeding the brakes and the master as well .but when thats done if the brakes are still spongy then check on the frame inside the passenger wheel well there is 2 junction blocks..these 2 blocks sometimes trap air then no matter how long you bleed it there will be air trapped still .try bleeding them also..just my .02