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xtremeyj
11-21-2008, 06:37 PM
Ok, heres the story, my jeep was never gonna run 40's, it kinda just happened, now i cant go smaller. Im gathering all my parts up to do my triangulated 4 link and got just about everything. But my rear aint gonna last long on 40's so why waste my time on it. Thinkin of goin full width cause the damn thing aint gonna exactly be street legal anyway soon, what axles will work, drivers drop, already got the atlas so changing that is not an option. Ive heard chevs are pass drop. What should i look for. Ive done alot of research and everyone seems to have different opinions. Dana 60, 70, ford 9" Sterling 10.25? My budget kinda beat to shit cause of what ive done to it already so not to rich

xtremeyj
11-21-2008, 08:13 PM
does no-one know or do i stink?

Oh ya, im a fuckin newbie.

Nutbar
11-21-2008, 08:41 PM
Hey Kev, the only solid axle stuff that is drivers drop is gonna be the Fords, 93 and up Dodges (which are undesireable being they have unit bearings like the YJ 30 and disconect axles like the YJ 30), and the 80 to 91 Wagoneers full size Cherokees and Jeep J10 - J20 pickups

B
11-21-2008, 08:47 PM
yep ford 60 and either a 14 bolt or 10.25 sterling full width ... lot's of plus to those and will handle most of what you can throw at them witha 40 " tire should be able to find em with 4:10's whitch won't be to bad now u have the 4.3 t case ... and you can allways regear next year or at a later date as finaces allow ... if it's now gonna be a trail only rig you can weld the rear to stay on the cheap and look for a used 35 spline detroit for the front ...

kinda what we talked about in person ...


stupid big gay tires eh ... [f] ...

xtremeyj
11-21-2008, 08:53 PM
Thanks mikey, just was thinkin of tryin to get away from d44, thats what i got now, and I know B, thanks dude, just wanted to know what to look for, If my 44 in the front was gonna cut it I wouldnt change it out, but seein as i gotta change the rear out anyway might as well go full width one tons. Plans on just turnin the fuckin thing into a truggy anyway. Im just gonna do it big and not have to worry about it anymore

dirka dave
11-21-2008, 10:55 PM
burn it...

Mr Vic
11-21-2008, 11:14 PM
burn it...

burn the toyota :party0010:


then go find a ford 60 and either a 14 bolt or 10.25 sterling full width. like B said.

wish i would have done that in the first place for my YJ. the d44 and 8.8 is a good setup but if i want to go 37's or bigger gonna be breakin lots of parts...

dirka dave
11-21-2008, 11:20 PM
I run 37" on my stock Toyota front diff with an ARB and a wide track with a Detroit in the rear with a 22r......

FU Toolbag
11-21-2008, 11:38 PM
Any thoughts of running a ford length short side and a chev length long sine d60 front? Would wind up pretty narrow and along with a duellie rear, should be still narrow and strong. You'll just have to shorten a side on a d60.

Tunabomber
11-21-2008, 11:48 PM
kev kev kev [16]

stick to yer plan man

if ya wanna keep up with out breaking shit just drop down to 37 or 38 keep yer 488s use yer atlas get rid of the body lift and enjoy what ya got with out spending another 5 grand

and no yer wife didnt call me

B
11-22-2008, 08:58 AM
kev kev kev [16]

stick to yer plan man

if ya wanna keep up with out breaking shit just drop down to 37 or 38 keep yer 488s use yer atlas get rid of the body lift and enjoy what ya got with out spending another 5 grand

and no yer wife didnt call me




lol ..... yep that would work to ... shit even a 40 iroc vs those huge pigs ...


but once u have em it's hard to go smaller :cool:

Ginger Snaps
11-22-2008, 10:54 AM
yeah for big gay tires build it once build it right 4link is the only way to go

mus-Tard
11-22-2008, 01:10 PM
l love my dana 60 one with all the stearingshit should run you no more than a thousand bucks. or at least that is what l paid for mine. compleat form locking hub to locking hub, break calipers, draglink. everything but the springs.