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View Full Version : Dana 44: loose wheel bearings....


godtool
09-17-2008, 05:06 PM
My front wheel bearings are loose:( ! The Haynes Manual says tighten to 50 ft lbs, then back off 90 degrees, then tighten to 35 ft lbs, then back off 3/8's of a turn, and then turn if needed to engage lock ring. Any tips on this?

Also I'm changing my hubs from studs\nuts to the lock tabs and bolts. What grade of bolt should I use 5, or 8? Looks like the holes are just over 2" deep too. Also any tips on how to check to see if I have a loose ball joint? I figure once the wheel bearings are good then drive it to Radmans shop to check the ball joints... From what I can see they seem tight:confused0006:

Also at the same time as checking front wheel bearings I guess I should check the rear ones too (14 bolt) ;)

cowboy-truck
09-17-2008, 07:33 PM
Tighten your front and rear wheel bearings till you feel the rolling resistence and so there is no play in the hub then lock it down, I've always had good luck with that.

kootenaycat
09-17-2008, 08:21 PM
What he said.

Tighten the inner nut snug, rotate the hub/rotor to seat the bearings, back off the nut then snug it up by hand. Basically you want to take all the play out of the bearings, then just slightly preload them. If you have to turn the inner nut to line up the lock pin, loosen it, don't over tighten the bearings.

Outer nut should be done up good and tight. Sorry, don't have a torque spec for "good and tight"! :D

dub
09-18-2008, 02:50 AM
for the ball joints lift the truck until the tires are just off the ground and put a pry bar either in through your wheel of underneath the tire and lift tilting the top of the wheel in toward the frame look and also feel for any movement at the joints

godtool
09-19-2008, 08:24 AM
Front ball joints appear tight, rear wheel bearings no slop either. My front wheel bearings, if you grab the top and bottom of the tire you feel slop, say 1/8" but thats with my 38.5" super swampers on. I'm trying to solve a wandering problem... I wonder if that could be it? Toe-in should be 1/8" right? Also how much slop is no good in the power steering box? How do you know if its worn out? I'm sure the guys I see around town driving new trucks with 38"s don't have the same wandering problems. Even though I have the detroit locker in the rear the truck still should not suddenly lurch to the side when I hit a small bump in the pavement. It seems like I'm constantly correcting even on smooth pavement.... I'm going to start by taking out the slop in the wheel bearings and take a test drive to Radmans shop;)

Man oh man when I'm on gravel with pot holes I feel like I'm driving a deathtrap:o .

I figure thats my new name for me truck "DEATHTRAP":happy0045:

cowboy-truck
09-19-2008, 10:13 AM
Check the tie rods, even a small amount of play in each piece will give you wandering issues, as for the steering box no play is always the best. With the wheels on the ground get someone to turn the steering wheel back and forth about a quarter turn and take a flashlite and look at every joint in turn chances are you will have something visably wore out. You can tighten your steering box as well by holding the center bolt and turning the nut, just be careful not to overtighten or you could brake it, good luck!

Trooper
09-19-2008, 04:48 PM
I have always had wondering problems on every 4x4 I have had with over sized tires. I always thought it was from the tires.

HEAVY METAL
09-20-2008, 07:30 AM
i hand tightenm the first nut ( while turning the hub) then back off a 1/4 turn and impact the last nut on..

tchevy
09-20-2008, 07:51 AM
leaf bushings are always overlooked, if they are worn they will throw off allsorts of alignment angles. caster, SAI......

godtool
09-23-2008, 06:28 AM
So if you are tightening the inside nut by hand is that with the wheel and calliper off? Like spin the rotor?

HEAVY METAL
09-23-2008, 06:42 AM
yup...........

godtool
09-23-2008, 06:18 PM
Thanks man. Just took other side apart, inside wheel bearing totally shot too but not as bad as drivers side. So I pulled it all apart to the axle bearing. The old parts are a ?bronze? bushing, and the new parts plastic bushing and an axle seal too. There was no axle seal as you can see the axle bearing is flush. Years ago on my ol' front 10 bolt I made a Driver to drive the axle bearing in far enough into the spindle to accommadate the axle seal. So... I was thinking the last person did not put in an axle seal but there is this funky bronze bushing. Should I re-use the ol' bronze one or the new plastic one? Also use the axle seal? Plus which way does the axle seal go? Flat side towards the needle bearing or face the flat side out? The offshore kit had no seal and less needle bearings and the better equipped kit "SKF BK1" had the same needle bearing as the original.

OLD PARTS
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/75_dana_44_old_parts.jpg

NEW PARTS
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/75_dana_44_new_parts.jpg

godtool
09-25-2008, 07:23 AM
So I found out the axle seal goes flat in to needle bearing. Also bought "speedy sleeves" for where grease seal rides on spindle. Seems there is no grooves but rust and pitting. I don't want the seal to tear out or wear out too soon. So I guess I'll put them on with some red locktight. Or what have you guys done before to glue these on? Ultrablack? It says if there is deep scoring fill with "powdered metal epoxy type filler" What is that called at Lordco? I guess JB weld would fill the scoring too and keep the sleeve on.

Also the 6 bolt hub gasket. It seems silicone is the going thing. Dont worry about using a gasket?

godtool
09-25-2008, 06:41 PM
Any last words on toe-in? especially running 38" bias ply tsl super swampers?

Thanks for all the help guys. Hope to have my 4x on the rd for some grouse hunting tomorrow....

tchevy
09-25-2008, 06:45 PM
around 1/16 is good but biger tires it will drive better with 1/8:)

godtool
10-30-2008, 09:26 AM
Well got bearings all done! Jimmy wanders a whole ton less. Still have a little play in the tie rod closest to passenger tire and a little slop in tie rod end that bolts into steering arm. PLUS frame by steering box is still to be welded. I guess once thats all fixed it will be like a dream to drive:party0010: . For now it drives really good on gravel rds but not so good on pavement especiaslly if I hit those ruts made by the logging trucks.

Burlinator
10-30-2008, 06:53 PM
my truck drives fine with radials but as soon as I went to bias now I'm all over the place[k]

godtool
10-31-2008, 09:22 AM
my truck drives fine with radials but as soon as I went to bias now I'm all over the place[k]

Me too, I was so bent on getting my bias tsl super swampers I forgot the drawbacks at running them. I know bias tsl's you casn run at 1-10 psi unlike radials that can be damaged esp. going over big sharp rocks.

rockrawler
11-02-2008, 12:07 AM
My front wheel bearings are loose:( ! The Haynes Manual says tighten to 50 ft lbs, then back off 90 degrees, then tighten to 35 ft lbs, then back off 3/8's of a turn, and then turn if needed to engage lock ring. Any tips on this?

Also I'm changing my hubs from studs\nuts to the lock tabs and bolts. What grade of bolt should I use 5, or 8? Looks like the holes are just over 2" deep too. Also any tips on how to check to see if I have a loose ball joint? I figure once the wheel bearings are good then drive it to Radmans shop to check the ball joints... From what I can see they seem tight:confused0006:

Also at the same time as checking front wheel bearings I guess I should check the rear ones too (14 bolt) ;)
You might want to look into http://www.stage8.com/products_lsnb.html I got these for mine[36] just a thought.

godtool
11-02-2008, 05:09 AM
Thanks, that looks real slick![36] More positions to set the toque the better.

Always broke
11-02-2008, 09:53 AM
Also for checking slop in the front end ....With the engine off get someone in the drivers seat to shake the steering wheel back and forth continuosly(SP?) and get underneath the front end and look for play that should narrow down your problem plus a steering stabilizer would be a good idea.

UU
11-02-2008, 10:05 AM
I have the same wondering problem on my jeep, checked and double checked everything, then took the b-locked boggers off and put on my balanced 35 muds and it drove great......some times it is the tires

HEAVY METAL
11-02-2008, 10:14 AM
I have the same wondering problem on my jeep, checked and double checked everything, then took the b-locked boggers off and put on my balanced 35 muds and it drove great......some times it is the tires



yup.. i put the stockers on triple b.. she drives mint. (have trouble with traction) put the boggers on..well dont have too go there.

m j
11-02-2008, 10:15 AM
with TSLs it is always the tires :)