PDA

View Full Version : Hillbilly Deluxe


1tontoy
02-27-2008, 03:49 PM
Just thought I would give you a brief run down on the build.

Basically, I spent a long time looking for a rig after I rolled my last one. I wanted something in the 89-95 range, but couldn't find something I didn't have a problem cutting apart. Then a feller down in Surrey posted his truck up for sale, and I jumped on it sight unseen. A month later I spent 35 hours cooped up in an S-10 as me and a buddy made the round trip from Brooks to Surrey and back.

I had most of my parts, but kept on changing my mind. I retained my axles, which are a built D60 front, with almost every goody you can buy, and a D70 rear, stuffed with the same. After everything was said and done, I opted to go to a Ford drivetrain, and picked up a 302 from a relative who had wrecked his truck. Then I found a C6 tranny, and bought a 203 range box, doubler, and triple stick shifter from NWF. Figured all that rolling on 39.5" Boggers would be pretty sweet. Pretty much had it made.

But then the gears started turning again. If I am going this big, why not go bigger? So, I have decided to tear it all apart, and build it so that it can keep up and possibly surpass anything on the trails today.

The new build specs are as follows. 454 BBC, with a Holley Fuel Injection setup, serpentine pulley system, and a couple of other doodads. Power is going to be routed through a severely overbuilt TH350 tranny, mated to a 203/205. I haven't decided which doubler I am going to use, though it will be either one of Jed's, or possibly Stazworks. From there, the power will enter a matched set of Rockwells equipped with Ouversons 47 spline shafts, and Detroits. I am working the suspension to accomodate a set of 54" Boggers, but it will roll on 47" LTB's to begin with. The front is going to be 4 linked, and possibly the rear also, though I am contemplating a transverse one link system.

That should give you an idea as to what I hope to end up with. Once I start making some progress, I'll get somemore posts up.

The whole build history can be found here:

http://hillbillyoffroad.ca/viewtopic.php?t=61

Taxidermy
02-27-2008, 10:45 PM
looking good big toyota [5][5][5][5][5][5][5][5][5][5]

nightcrawler
02-28-2008, 08:57 AM
:D looks like yur gonna be ready for the top truck challenge[cheers]


oh yeah what about rear steer [36]

Explorer guy418
02-28-2008, 09:03 AM
That is awesome Man! keep us updated looks good

KINGCRUISER
02-28-2008, 10:36 AM
Sweet build man, love ot see it out on the trail

coreyg8
02-28-2008, 12:01 PM
haha fuck thats cool. I saw the "Hillbilly Deluxe " didnt realize you were gonna make it look like the one in the video thats wicked man!

1tontoy
03-03-2008, 09:10 PM
haha fuck thats cool. I saw the "Hillbilly Deluxe " didnt realize you were gonna make it look like the one in the video thats wicked man!

I like to think that this rig is way cooler than the one featured in the vid. I am going bigger, tougher, and not even considering a blower. This truck is being built to wheel, no cruise in a vid. LoL

Rear steer? TTC? Definitely, and, well, its crossed my mind, but its a long ways off.

Thanks for the compliments guys.

trooper+
03-18-2008, 08:53 PM
lookin good

hilltoptoy
03-31-2008, 07:54 PM
Very nice.

1tontoy
06-13-2008, 09:41 PM
A bit of an update for you.

After losing my site, I decided to revert back to the original build, and save the heavy artillery for a different project.

Starting out with the stripped Toy, I got the front suspension reworked. I removed the old spring hanger, and installed the Sky's full width conversion hanger. I bought the kit, and that is the only piece that I used.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image022-3.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image015-3.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image016-3.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image017-2.jpg

I hung a set of Deaver 51" springs from the hanger, and got some custom shackles made to help with the up-travel. The front axle, a built up D60, is in at the machine shop having the pass side spring perch machined slightly to help correct the pinion angle. At the moment, it sit level, and I hope to bring it up 3" as a correction, then use a 6* shim if needed, but I am thinking that a 3 will work. I am not worried about my castor angle, as it will be inside of acceptable limits.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image021.jpg

As you can tell, it moved my front diff ahead 5", and is really noticable compared to the pics from a year ago when it was sitting outside the garage.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image023-2.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/D1000059.jpg

After completing the front suspension, I started on the engine bay, again. I removed another few miles of useless wiring and airlines. Then I cut out the factory motor mount towers, cleaned up the belly of all old mounts, and hung the engine over the compartment. With the tranny still attached, I screwed with it for awhile, but I got it in without too much cussing. I fabbed up some stout mounts, and tacked them to the frame, allowing the motor to sit in there perfectly. Well almost.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image025-2.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image027-1.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image029.jpg

I started putting the doubler together, and have had nothing but problems with it. From wrong hardware, to poor clocking, and instructions that didn't match the unit, just to name a few. I got it together (who needs instructions anyways?) , and found out that one of the shift rails needs to be ground down a touch more. And now its being stubborn, and won't come out of the case. Once I get the unit back together, it will go back into the truck for the fifth and final time, and the cross members fabbed up and installed.

I did get the case to clock pretty close to perfectly flat, though it required tapping and drilling some holes that were supposed to be there to begin with. Bringing the cases flat required a hole cut into the floor of the truck. I then had a mounting foot welded to the cast body of the 205 so that I have some support at the rear of the set-up, and won't be prone to snapping the unit in half.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image031.jpg

I am allowing provisions to mount a skid plate to the cross members without having any excess hanging down. Keeping the belly as flat as possible, without anything for a rock to snag, I should be able to do some decent crawling without fear of damaging anything under the truck.

Once the drivetrain is installed, I am going to tackle the wiring. This should be uber easy, as I sprung for the Painless Wiring kit for the engine. But, I know some problem or another will pop up, so I'll just let it go until its in. Then its the interiors turn.

TWOZEROFOUR
06-14-2008, 12:24 AM
wick shit man,,[36] [36]

Love the Kal Tire Logo's as well [cheers]

HEAVY METAL
06-14-2008, 07:41 AM
nice build.. are u american?

id run a T400 personally dont think the 350 will last..yo

jakerngr
06-14-2008, 09:04 AM
its a ford engine and tranny by the looks of it

KINGCRUISER
06-14-2008, 12:11 PM
Sweetness i like[36]

1tontoy
06-14-2008, 11:58 PM
In order...

Kal Tire screwed me....

I am only half american, and they were on the Confederates side.

It's a Ford/GM drivetrain. C6/Ford203/GM205.

King, you have good taste.















LoL. hahahhahaha

HEAVY METAL
06-15-2008, 06:45 AM
In order...

Kal Tire screwed me....

I am only half american, and they were on the Confederates side.

It's a Ford/GM drivetrain. C6/Ford203/GM205.

King, you have good taste.

was wonderin cauze ur boggers were on backwards...:dontknow:















LoL. hahahhahaha

1tontoy
06-16-2008, 08:24 PM
Thats just in case I got to back out of a hole somewhere.

HEAVY METAL
06-16-2008, 08:28 PM
Thats just in case I got to back out of a hole somewhere.


:dontknow: :dontknow: hmm must be a toyota thing...im not worried about goin backwards...[cheers]

1tontoy
06-17-2008, 06:36 PM
Well, I don't think its a bad thing, myself, either. And neither would you, once I backed out, drove around your stuck ass and tossed you the strap from the front, lol. [cheers]

1tontoy
07-20-2008, 08:44 PM
Finally got the doubler set up, with the cable shifters installed. This was probably the least amount of fun that I have had during the build. This doubler has been a nightmare since I picked up the phone, dialed Northwest Fabworks number, and a voice came on the other end. But, hopefully, the problems are now done and over with, for the most part.

Shit that went wrong.

8 months for total delivery.
Studs to hold the plate to the 205 had wrong thread pitch
Breather hole is in wrong spot.
203 range box not drilled and tapped
Two 1" bolts with nuts on them inside rangebox, stuck in gears.
Does not clock flat, unless you drill your own holes.
Excess nuts and bolts included
Instructions for doubler do not match
Instructions for shifter kit not included.
No shifter boots with kit.
Missing pieces for the 205 twinstick setup
Missing pieces for the 203 linkage setup

After dealing with most of the problems, I found out that some pieces were missing. I had to find a piece of 1/2" piece of ready rod to add stability to the set up. I also had to modify the supplied bracket to fit the new clocking on the 203. That required rounding out a bolt hole. Once the shifter was installed, and the throw on the cable adjusted to cover all three selections on the range box, I found that the bracket was unstable. So I fabbed up and tacked on a mini brace, giving it much more stabilty during actuation.

Also visible is the factory linkage that had to be modified to work with the kit. I merely flattened it out with a hammer, and drilled two holes, testing the throw in the cable till it worked through out its range. Nothing fancy, but the point is that the kit was incomplete, among other things.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image002-9.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image001-2.jpg

The pliers are pointing at the breather hole plumbed in by NWF. As you can see, with my clocking, that hole is useless, and had to be plugged, and a new one drilled elsewhere. The "stud" interfering with that hole is actually a short piece of ready rod I had to purchase to replace the 4 studs that had the wrong thread pitch. I managed to rethread two of them, but the other two didn't work out.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image003-3.jpg

And here is the completed product.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image004-5.jpg

I ran into an issue with the mods on the shiftrails. I had to pull the second rail again to mod it more, and in doing so, lost a rollpin.

Inside the 203 is a magnet, which picks up any shavings and wear from the gears. Clocking it 90*, and using the supplied bling bling aluminum PTO cover NWF supplied means there is no where to stick the magnet without the threat of it being grabbed up by the gears, as there is no clearance. So I contact cemented to the cover, after prepping the surface. I figured I'd give it its 24 hours of curing before I filled it with the 80/90w oil, and give myself the piece of mind.

I did run into an issue with one of the rollpins. It pulled a Houdini on me, and disappeared. After tearing into the case, and pulling it all apart, I found out that when I punched it out, it didn't go all the way through. Instead, it released the rail, but was still lodged in the shiftfork. A minor oversite on my part, which caused no small amount of grief, but its dealt with. jeepers happens.

Halfway through dismantling the case...

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image001-5.jpg

Snapped a pic of the mounting foot welded onto the bottom of the case. The case is upside down, fyi.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image002-12.jpg

And the piece d'resitance. I figured I may as well get a fill hole tapped a drilled into the rangebox, seeing as how due to my clocking, the exixting fill hole has become a drain. I originally took it into a manhine shop, willing to take it in the rear, and they were willing to give it. $80, plus GST, for one hole. Then decided to do it myself. Cost $40 for the tools, and I can reuse them over and over again.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image006-6.jpg

Just have to finish the one framerail, and then install the doubler, for what hopefully will be the last time. With the bender at my disposal now, my ideas for the crossmembers may change, but I'll decide that when I can nail down my clearances.

And the latest bit of work completed on it was in the interior. I pulled all the carpet and paneling from it, chipped most of the rotten sound deading material from the floor, and give her a nice coat of rock guard.

I then painted up the internal cage to match the external, and installed it. Looks pretty sharp, I think. Now that it is in, I can fab all my mounts for harness' and the seats themselves.

http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image007-2.jpg
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p87/1tontoy/Image003-4.jpg

dirka dave
07-20-2008, 08:58 PM
looks good..

1tontoy
09-18-2008, 07:53 PM
With the engine in, the stock rear springs settle out real nice, with a near perfect shackle angle. After removing the old spring perch, moving the new one ahead 3", it settles to almost level. Add the winch, and the new tube work to the front, I think it will sit perfect once the 4" lift springs from alcan come in. Or, should I go 6", just in case I ever want to try and stick 44's under it?

http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo292/2tontoy/0918081714.jpg
http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo292/2tontoy/0918081715.jpg

Zibi
09-18-2008, 10:30 PM
great looking truck, love the tube work

keegs
09-20-2008, 11:07 AM
nice build dude

Chody
09-20-2008, 11:58 AM
real badass

SHITTY
09-22-2008, 05:21 PM
sweet rig . lets see some action pics[cheers] [36]

Redneck_04
09-22-2008, 06:46 PM
thats unreal i love it it my damn dream truck!!!!

Redneck_04
09-22-2008, 06:47 PM
oh yeah 6inch and 44's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!