View Full Version : Best way to bleed a clutch slave

01-12-2008, 10:21 AM
I cant get my slave bled properly!:dontknow: any body have sugestions to get it to hold pressure, i've read the instructions (twice) and still got nothing!:confused0006: PLEASE HELP!

dirka dave
01-12-2008, 01:08 PM
If you are doing it yourself, gravity bleed for about one beer, then slowly press the pedal 2-3 times 3/4 of the way, then crack bleeder.
The other way is to crack bleeder, install a piece of vacuum hose to the bleeder, run it into a jar, fill jar 1/2 with brake fluid (make sure the line is under the level of the fluid in the jar). Then all you do is SLOWLY press the pedal a couple of times, use a glass jar to monitor the level and to watch the bubbles..
Hope this helps. :)

01-12-2008, 07:27 PM
Ah usually that's a two man job at our shop for good results, especially with those pesky Ford slaves........one guy operating the pedal, the other on the bleeder.....no pumping, just DOWN, open bleeder then close, then UP, repeat as needed, usually at least 10 or so times then try to pump it, if it's external you can see the results as you go......also make sure not to run the clutch master too low during this, check the fluid at least every 3 bleeder openings....

01-12-2008, 11:27 PM
What kind of vehicle is it? Some are a bitch to bleed, Ford Superduty for starters. Just replaced a slave on a Dakota recently, no bleeder on the slave, no bleeder in the system. And the master sits pointing downward, so all the air is trapped at the back of the cylinder. [16] After removing setup in one piece and bench bleeding with mediocre results, finally convinced the service manager to get a pre-bled complete set up from Dodge.

If it has a bleeder, gravity bleed until a good stream is coming out. If you have a helper, bleed it by opening the bleeder, push down on clutch, close bleeder, pull up clutch pedal and repeat. Going to have to cycle clutch pedal numerous times to get last of air out. Another way is to use a prop rod and push the clutch pedal to the floor and leave it overnight. Worked on the Dakota with the first slave.

Good luck!

01-12-2008, 11:39 PM
it makes it easier if you leave the plastic strap around the slave cylinder ON so it doesnt move around. also be careful not to crank down the bleeder screw, the ford one we did had a plastic housing with a steel screw and it cracked. And you should replace the slave and master cylinder at the same time, less hassles. Bench bleeding it is way easier to do and make sure to have the bleed screw side of the slave tilted up so the air bubbles rise

01-12-2008, 11:42 PM
heh on the Rangers and F150s of the '90 vintages.....we actually lift the front end of the truck a bit to angle shit just right to make it even easier......

01-13-2008, 11:18 AM
its an 85 chev 1/2 ton. thanks for the info guys! i tried the 2 man pedal down, crack, close and up thing to no avail! the line to a jar thing is next.. could i just run the line back into the master or does it have to be below the level of the slave? kinda like siphening gas[cheers]

01-13-2008, 04:03 PM
Damn wish I was a little closer dude, I'd come over and give you a hand personally.......and yes, the catch jar with fluid has to be lower than the master....it's a gravity thing, even an empty jar down below to catch the stuff and you up top pouring fresh fluid in as it drops works sometimes too, takes time but works in some of the finicky stuff.....just ideas to throw out there....

Growly Gorilla
01-16-2008, 07:23 AM
The slave has to be removed from the truck and the bleeder positioned in the highest point on the slave,crack the bleeder and wait for all the air to escape,install into bell housing, give a couple of pumps and repeat as necessary.These things are a bitch to do,but it is possible,but the slave has to be out of the bell housing to do it.