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bigyellowbronco
05-22-2007, 07:32 PM
I'm thinkin about either getting a 4 or a 6 " lift for my fullsize bronco and I already put a 2" block and another leafe in the back and that bunged up my driveline angle pretty bad sooo I dropped the transfercase down a bit and that helped alot but when i get the 6" lift how am I gonna easily fix the bad angle again....what are some tricks of the trade? I would like to know what i'm getting into with the 6" lift... would i need new drive shafts and would i have to change the front crossmember....blahh blahh blahh

thanks

m j
05-22-2007, 07:42 PM
what year?
sounds like you are talking about TTB

bigyellowbronco
05-22-2007, 07:52 PM
ya its an 89 and I can do all the fabricating and everythin myself and i have all the tools i need so....

jakerngr
05-22-2007, 08:14 PM
turn the pinion angle towards the t case

Little Mule
05-22-2007, 08:35 PM
You can get spring shims to change your pinion angle. May need new drive shafts, not sure though.

Apathy
05-22-2007, 08:48 PM
turn the pinion angle towards the t case

Not entirely.. you can do this if you run cv's if not, put an angle finder on your output shaft. Then make your pinion angle the same. (i.e. if your output shaft is 10 deg, then make your pinion 10 deg) If the angle is bad, then your gonna have to run CV's and then point the pinion right at the output shaft of your T-case. If you don't do this you WILL have drive line vibes. (i'm sure others will chime in and say, no you won't but they are the 1 in 10000)

bigyellowbronco
05-22-2007, 11:15 PM
ya I know that i have to change the pinion angle and i do have the cv shaft but is it as easy as just shims? cause that would be great

jakerngr
05-23-2007, 12:26 PM
use steele shims not aluminum

B
05-23-2007, 01:25 PM
dont shim it cut the perches off and reweld them in the proper new location after ur sure all angles are good ...[cheers]...

if u cant remove them nicely i can get u new ones if u can't source them urself ....

Apathy
05-23-2007, 01:32 PM
dont shim it cut the perches off and reweld them in the proper new location after ur sure all angles are good ...[cheers]...

if u cant remove them nicely i can get u new ones if u can't source them urself ....

yep, thats the way i'd do it

bigyellowbronco
05-23-2007, 04:56 PM
thanks guys sounds good how bout any other problems I'll run into from putting the 6" lift in?

Little Mule
05-23-2007, 06:23 PM
You'll most likely need longer brake lines and e-brake cables.

Tha_Stepside
05-24-2007, 12:27 PM
dont shim it cut the perches off and reweld them in the proper new location after ur sure all angles are good ...[cheers]...

if u cant remove them nicely i can get u new ones if u can't source them urself ....

Ditto that man, i did it on my 9" and it worked out really well, only took 2 hours to do the proper fabbing and welding.

FU Toolbag
05-24-2007, 08:02 PM
I just cut and rewelded my sterling. I had to point it back to the earth cause of my shackle setup, but I've taken out the lift blocks entirely. It took about half an hour to cut the old ones and about an hour to reweld and fab up some linger plates with 3 locating holes. Nohing like 3" movement with only undoing the u bolts.

blacker_69
05-24-2007, 08:39 PM
if your a two piece driveshaft, essentially what the others have said but you want a .5 to 3 degree difference in your driveshaft angles. a straight two piece shaft will whip. if your running blocks your gonna want to have the nose of the pinion angled below the rear shaft section, to take into acount of axle wrap.