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bakelite
05-05-2007, 12:05 PM
Doing a quick, hopefully two week upgrade to my Jeep to make it more FUN. [36]

Out with the old D35..bye bye :)

51673

NP231 with AA SYE, new seals and shit, chain looked good, everything did, like a new tcase inside. SCORE> [36]

51674


Tcase back in, manual says to pull the transmission and tcase out together as a unit...*cough* ....bullshit.

51675

Rear end sitting on the leaves with the new mounts. 8.8 Exploder with 4.10's and a DEEtroit....and yes, drum brakes. :)

51676

Front of the rear end :confused:

51677

Was going great til I went to put the U Bolts on and they are too big. Had hoped to have it done by Monday. Got a few more upgrades I will post as done. Need more parts and I thought I had everything. [15] [15] [15] [cheers]

B
05-05-2007, 12:28 PM
looks good joe ... not to poke the bear but i thought u were gonna point those u bolt's up ?

Hello Kitty
05-05-2007, 12:30 PM
that's a nice lookin sammy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


[36]

bakelite
05-05-2007, 12:32 PM
looks good joe ... not to poke the bear but i thought u were gonna point those u bolt's up ?

I was B but just wanna get it done quick now for May long..can do that later. I never got around to making the plates for it anyway, they are still in my locker at work waiting for me to not be so lazy and get er done. [36] [cheers]


I get confused....u bolts up in the other Jeep...but good idea maybe this one too.

bakelite
05-05-2007, 12:33 PM
that's a nice lookin sammy !!!!!!!!!!!!!!


[36]


........no soap for YOU![15]

fourplay
05-05-2007, 01:12 PM
Looking good Joe [36] [36]

NeoAnderson
05-05-2007, 01:35 PM
You YJ dudes got it easier.
I got control arm and trackbar brackets to make and weld dammit.:mad:

Damn you got the 4.10's!!
I only 3.73's.[16]
but i DID get disc brakes!!!![36]

I'm just about ready to install.

Pics of burnouts when ya got err done will appreciated.:s30x:

:D

Tunabomber
05-05-2007, 07:56 PM
looks great joe
what did ya use for a yoke when ya removed the flat end of the 8.8

Taxidermy
05-05-2007, 08:50 PM
cool [36]

DirtyComanche
05-05-2007, 09:45 PM
Can I ask why you went to a yoke instead of the flange on the 8.8? That yoke looks like a u-bolt one, but if it isn't you did a huge downgrade.


Personally I'd have just run the flange.

Kinslayer
05-05-2007, 11:49 PM
looks good joe ... not to poke the bear but i thought u were gonna point those u bolt's up ?

[iagree] Spring over, you got it all ripped apart already, I mean do eeeet

FKN MRK
05-06-2007, 02:15 AM
[36] fuckin sweet joe:party0010:

bakelite
05-06-2007, 04:42 AM
looks great joe
what did ya use for a yoke when ya removed the flat end of the 8.8

I think the Spicer? conversion.


Why did I change from flange to yoke....I dunno thought it was the way it was done. :dontknow:

No spring over, happy with the height now but I might put the bolts pointing up...been thinking about it, see how work goes tonight if I have time to get the pieces ready, it's a good idea I know. I dunno about burnouts with the mighty 4.2 [15]

NeoAnderson
05-06-2007, 06:42 AM
Ok...no burnouts,but how bout some wheels up action then.[36]

UU
05-06-2007, 06:57 AM
Looks good Joe :cool:

I'm running the same thing w/ the conversion joint, did the disc brake conversiona few months back, $500. And when ya get around to it, flip those u-bolts.

See ya out there [cheers]

DirtyComanche
05-06-2007, 10:10 AM
I think the Spicer? conversion.


Why did I change from flange to yoke....I dunno thought it was the way it was done. :dontknow:




Maybe with YJs/CJs/TJs that have a shorter WB,than say a XJ/MJ that I'm more framiliar with. You'd probably lose about 1/2" of driveshaft length using the more typical companion flange and flanged yoke. However, if that's just a strap yoke then the flange style is WAY stronger. The straps like to stretch over time and then let go on you. Making things annoying.


Anyways, if anybody cares the P/N for the companion flange for a 1310 joint is spicer C2-2-279. It comes with many 8.8s. I dun remember the ford bolt part number, but the dealer can get them...

NeoAnderson
05-06-2007, 03:30 PM
[quote=DirtyComanche;

Anyways, if anybody cares the P/N for the companion flange for a 1310 joint is spicer C2-2-279. It comes with many 8.8s. I dun remember the ford bolt part number, but the dealer can get them...[/quote]


Damn DirtyCommanche!!You are a life saver!![cheers]

I phoned NAPA and gave them a part number and everything and he was like "duh..they don't make that i guess"[16]

I gave them number 2-2-1379..which is what is all over the web sites i've been readin but maybe thats an American number??:dontknow:...i dunno.
The flange yoke that came with my diff is for a 1330 joint so i can't use it.

Kudos to you and all your family and friends and siblings and future generations of Commanche people!![36][36][36][36][36]

F150HULK
05-06-2007, 05:11 PM
I'm sooooooooooo Jelous

[36] [36] [36] [36] [36] [36]


good stuff bud!

DirtyComanche
05-06-2007, 10:41 PM
Damn DirtyCommanche!!You are a life saver!![cheers]

I phoned NAPA and gave them a part number and everything and he was like "duh..they don't make that i guess"[16]

I gave them number 2-2-1379..which is what is all over the web sites i've been readin but maybe thats an American number??:dontknow:...i dunno.
The flange yoke that came with my diff is for a 1330 joint so i can't use it.

Kudos to you and all your family and friends and siblings and future generations of Commanche people!![36][36][36][36][36]


Is Napa still a spicer dealer?

Don't hold TOO much faith in that part number, it was off the top of my head and I haven't owned an 8.8 in a while now. C2-2-1379 seems to be oft stated now that I think about it - you're making me worried.


But if you need the 1310 companion flange (and that's the wrong number) hit a boneyard and look for any year ranger, explorer, later broncos, and RWD cars (crown vics, mustangs, etc). I think some vans work too.








Edit, I checked the spicer database. I think I got the isuzu 1310 flange (C2-2-721) confused with the 8.8 one (C2-2-1379). 2-2-1379 is active, 2-2-279 is a non-listing... But 2-2-721 is a non-listing too. Okay, now I'm confused. The spicer dealer told me there's a difference between the american part number and the canadian - but I didn't believe him. Now I'm not so sure. Maybe I should try writing down part numbers instead of trying to memorize them.

bakelite
05-08-2007, 11:12 AM
Okay, I'm assuming and it looks right to me so I'm probably wrong....should the shocks be mounted to the FRONT of the rear end? Thanks, anyone got a driveshaft? [cheers]



okay found info on the shocks...they go on the front. ;)

England
05-08-2007, 11:43 AM
looks great !!!!!

bakelite
05-08-2007, 02:50 PM
Thanks hope it all works.:dontknow: Bit the bullet and ordered a drive shaft today :eek: fuck it, just money eh? [15] Made up the parts for the u-bolts pointing up, tacked it all together and ran out of go. Will post more pics to critisize later [15] Jeez I hope my pinion angles are good. [cheers]

England
05-08-2007, 03:06 PM
Joe it looks mint !!! Cant wait to wheel with yer buddy !

NeoAnderson
05-08-2007, 05:02 PM
Is Napa still a spicer dealer?

Don't hold TOO much faith in that part number, it was off the top of my head and I haven't owned an 8.8 in a while now. C2-2-1379 seems to be oft stated now that I think about it - you're making me worried.


But if you need the 1310 companion flange (and that's the wrong number) hit a boneyard and look for any year ranger, explorer, later broncos, and RWD cars (crown vics, mustangs, etc). I think some vans work too.








Edit, I checked the spicer database. I think I got the isuzu 1310 flange (C2-2-721) confused with the 8.8 one (C2-2-1379). 2-2-1379 is active, 2-2-279 is a non-listing... But 2-2-721 is a non-listing too. Okay, now I'm confused. The spicer dealer told me there's a difference between the american part number and the canadian - but I didn't believe him. Now I'm not so sure. Maybe I should try writing down part numbers instead of trying to memorize them.

Yes Napa still deals with Spicer stuff.
The part number didn't work but i think also that the goof behind the counter may in fact....be mentally challenged.
I will try the wreckers and lordco..or if someone on here has a 1310 flange yoke for 8.8 they would trade for a 1330..then i'm game.
thx for your help Mr DirtyComanche sir.[36]

Now back to our regularly scheduled "YJ Upgrades" programming........

bakelite
05-09-2007, 12:39 PM
Not much new, replaced a bad motor mount, made a set up for ubolt flip .. thanks for the pictures Walt. [cheers]

New solid gold driveshaft should be here Friday.[16]

Parts I made for the u bolt flip.

51929


Couple pictures of it installed.

51930 51931


Weird, everything I read about this conversion says I would lose about 5/8" of body height at the rear, I gained about an inch. :dontknow:

England
05-09-2007, 01:04 PM
hey Joe those look great mate super clean fit etc !!!!

Kinslayer
05-09-2007, 01:07 PM
New solid gold driveshaft should be here Friday.[16]

..To go with your solid gold flange!


Weird, everything I read about this conversion says I would lose about 5/8" of body height at the rear, I gained about an inch. :dontknow:

I don't understand why you should gain or lose any body height...?


OH, and I still say spring OVER! nothing like nice round ubolts instead of squared ubolts on the bottom, and +4 inches of ride height!

England
05-09-2007, 01:10 PM
Stop following me King !! LMAO

bakelite
05-10-2007, 01:17 PM
..To go with your solid gold flange!



I don't understand why you should gain or lose any body height...?

I dunno, read it on a couple of 8.8 conversion sites, they said probably lose about 5/8 inch. :dontknow:


OH, and I still say spring OVER! nothing like nice round ubolts instead of squared ubolts on the bottom, and +4 inches of ride height!

I have 2.5 inch Rancho springs, body lift, I'm happy with the height, it works good for me. Mikey says they handle better with spring under and that's good enough for me. I can use all the good handling I can get with no track or sway bars. :happy0045: [cheers]

51961

UU
05-10-2007, 01:34 PM
The U-bolt flip looks good, no more getting hung up on stumps

bakelite
05-11-2007, 12:47 AM
Thanks Walt....um...haven't done the front yet :o

bakelite
05-20-2007, 01:16 PM
Okay, lost some time but thanks to BIGB (B says it's gonna happens, believe me, it does) and Jeep Thrills, back on track. [36] [36] [36]


So installed the new driveshaft...not so good, hitting, pinion angle wrong I guess, my screw up.

52534


I put in some 1/4" shims...better but not so great.

52535

So...dropped the Tcase 1/2"...works pretty good.

52536

Angle look okay?...seriously, I already admitted I don't know shit.

52537

Installed the Posi Lok....works mint, I would reccomend this to anyone with a Jeep like mine, get rid of more vacuum lines.:) And the Detroit is mint too, never had one before, it's different but I sure like it. [36]

52538


So what you figure, should I pull the rear end, relocate the brackets or can I run a bigger shim or something? Willing to do whatever I need, I'm used to doing things more than once by now lol. All a learning experience. No lose, all win. [cheers]

NeoAnderson
05-20-2007, 03:26 PM
I would cut the perches and reweld at the proper angle but a bigger shim will get ya by.Maybe even a 1" motor mount lift would help too.

just my 2cents

What does a solid gold driveshaft like yours go for these days anyways?:confused0006:

m j
05-20-2007, 03:44 PM
the pinion should be about 4° down from aimed at the TC output with that CV driveline
if it was normal ujoints then you would need an angle finder to get them to be at matching angles

F150HULK
05-20-2007, 03:45 PM
lookin good Joe. Oneday I'll get mine in :(

B
05-20-2007, 04:25 PM
Okay, lost some time but thanks to BIGB (B says it's gonna happens, believe me, it does) and Jeep Thrills, back on track. [36] [36] [36]


So installed the new driveshaft...not so good, hitting, pinion angle wrong I guess, my screw up.

52534


I put in some 1/4" shims...better but not so great.

52535

So...dropped the Tcase 1/2"...works pretty good.

52536

Angle look okay?...seriously, I already admitted I don't know shit.

52537

Installed the Posi Lok....works mint, I would reccomend this to anyone with a Jeep like mine, get rid of more vacuum lines.:) And the Detroit is mint too, never had one before, it's different but I sure like it. [36]

52538


So what you figure, should I pull the rear end, relocate the brackets or can I run a bigger shim or something? Willing to do whatever I need, I'm used to doing things more than once by now lol. All a learning experience. No lose, all win. [cheers]

ya joe u need to zip off those welds and turn that bitch up more ...as mj said or just pm mikey... but i belive once u lift the tcase back up u need to turn the diff so it is pointed at it ....

bakelite
05-20-2007, 10:54 PM
Well damn, I bought an angle finder, I set the pinion exactly 4 degrees below the Tcase....I was trying for 3 degrees :dontknow: I messed up somewhere. Maybe because I measured at the face of the pinion and TC output shafts? I knew it was bad right off the bat, couldn't turn the pinion as it was binding on the D/S. (up on jackstands) Oh well, work is free lol. Thanks guys. I got to play around a bit today anyway. [cheers]



Neo...driveshafts, built to length and balanced...going price is around 5 bills.

Nutbar
05-20-2007, 11:10 PM
Joe you wanna set your pinion angle 1-2 degrees lower than the angle of the driveshaft itself so it runs basically straight in line with the drive shaft. Take the Tcase drop out and forget about the angle of the Tcase all you care about now with the cv driveshaft is the angle of the driveshaft and the angle of the pinion.

bakelite
05-20-2007, 11:21 PM
Okay Mikey....I'll rip it out tomorrow and set it up like that. When I was tacking the mounts in I kinda thought that's the way it should be, the pinion pointed more at the Tcase. I'll cut the mounts off and put it in position better and post a picture before I weld it in again. Thanks. :)



The 8.8 is a bit narrower than the D35, should I run spacers between the rims and WMS or does it really matter?

Nutbar
05-20-2007, 11:26 PM
most of the other guys running them have had no real issues with them being narrower if you wind up having to much tire rub on the frame then I would run spacers if they don't rub much don't worry about it

Oh yeah and remember to do your pinion angle setting with the wieght on the suspension so the axle is sitting at ride hieght.

bakelite
05-20-2007, 11:51 PM
Thanks, I shouldn't have much tire rub problem with the minimal amount of shock travel I have now ;)

Yup will check with the weight on the wheels, I had that part down. lol. Gonna be an expert at this by the time I am done. Thanks for the help. [cheers]

bakelite
05-21-2007, 11:44 AM
I got the diff out, took the mounts all off, only wrecked the shock mounts, pretty good for me. [36] I wanted to move them anyway, I use stover nuts and had to "trim" one to fit which kinda takes away the point of using good nuts.

52638

So, back in, nothing tacked yet but I am at the point I am just confusing myself now. Angle finder reads 5 degrees in this picture.

52634

20 degrees in this one.

52635

Picture from the driver's side.

52636

Gonna run out of gap and need to get my driveshaft shortened?[16]

52637


I took the t/case drop out so these pictures are with the t/case where it should be. I know I am doing something wrong but not sure what. :confused:

The spring mounts are all a bit loose so I could turn the diff. I imagine tightening them down will change it a bit but not too much.

bakelite
05-21-2007, 07:54 PM
Thanks for the info Mikey, dunno how to send pics by pm so putting them here. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes. :rolleyes:

I followed your directions and got the pinion pretty much right on 1 degree down from the driveshaft angle. Little bit more but very close. Under 2 degrees. [cheers]

My driveshaft is too short now so I'll send it back down. My mistake for sure.

52775


Measured at top and bottom..pretty much 16 and 1/2"

52773 52778


I have this other driveshaft, it looks similar and seems fairly tight in the joints, hopefully I can find a machinist around here to shorten it for me tomorrow and I can do some exploring this week I got off for holiday then it would be a spare. I have the u-joint for it, came with the pinion kit. I dunno where to cut it and how much to take out??:dontknow:

52774 52776

Hopefully this is the last time I take this out and reweld the mounts [15] [cheers]

m j
05-21-2007, 08:09 PM
Well damn, I bought an angle finder, I set the pinion exactly 4 degrees below the Tcase....I was trying for 3 degrees :dontknow: I messed up somewhere. Maybe because I measured at the face of the pinion and TC output shafts? I knew it was bad right off the bat, couldn't turn the pinion as it was binding on the D/S. (up on jackstands) Oh well, work is free lol. Thanks guys. I got to play around a bit today anyway. [cheers]



Neo...driveshafts, built to length and balanced...going price is around 5 bills.


that is the perfect procedure for a (non CV) standard ujoint style driveshaft
it is a bit of BS really as what you are trying to do is account for the spring wrap under power so that the pinion ends up being parallel when it is under its highest load.


can you cheat a little and slide the axle back on the leaf pack to get away with the short shaft?
maybe an extra hole drilled into the bottom plate and the mount pads

bakelite
05-21-2007, 08:19 PM
I thought of that, moving the axle back on the spring pak but as it is now the back of the pumpkin hits my gas tank. I think I got it figured anyway now. Thanks for the advice and info mj, appreciated man. [cheers]

Nutbar
05-21-2007, 09:04 PM
Thanks for the info Mikey, dunno how to send pics by pm so putting them here. Maybe someone can learn from my mistakes. :rolleyes:

I followed your directions and got the pinion pretty much right on 1 degree down from the driveshaft angle. Little bit more but very close. Under 2 degrees. [cheers]

My driveshaft is too short now so I'll send it back down. My mistake for sure.

Measured at top and bottom..pretty much 16 and 1/2"

I have this other driveshaft, it looks similar and seems fairly tight in the joints, hopefully I can find a machinist around here to shorten it for me tomorrow and I can do some exploring this week I got off for holiday then it would be a spare. I have the u-joint for it, came with the pinion kit. I dunno where to cut it and how much to take out??":dontknow:

Hopefully this is the last time I take this out and reweld the mounts [15] [cheers]

That drive line angle looks alot better Joe

If your gonna try and shorten that one what you do is carefully cut the weld at the slip yoke end of the tube and shorten it so that the slip yoke is at about half travel at ride hieght.