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Troy
02-14-2007, 10:00 PM
Hey guys I just got my front high pinion dana 60 stripped apart...wow kingpins are a bitch to get out anyways Im on a tight budget and I plan to run 47's on my truck when it's done (79 F250) and I'm going to regear the front, put 35 spline outers in it blablabla and an ARB locker is 1000 bucks and Im just wondering if it's even worth it. The truck is going to be used in the mud, maybe the odd side trail etc. Should I just weld the spider gears, leave it open, or buy an ARB for it and work a little harder? I know for alot of you it's easy to say buy a detroit or arb or whatever but i want to know if it's worth it to buy a locker

thanks, Troy[36]

Troy
02-14-2007, 10:11 PM
This welded
44269

+

these 47's
44270

:dontknow:

Maelthra
02-14-2007, 10:32 PM
Think your welds can stand up to 47" Iroks? I'd go get a Spool if I wanted to run a welded front diff.

Troy
02-14-2007, 10:37 PM
Think your welds can stand up to 47" Iroks? I'd go get a Spool if I wanted to run a welded front diff.

47 inch LTB swamper not Iroks , it's not my welding capability im worried about its the u joints and axle shafts...i need some other opinions from you experienced guys

caveman
02-14-2007, 11:28 PM
talk to boyzen about welded front 60's with 44" boggers!!!!!
I would not do it! arb would work great lock it when you need it.

barracuda
02-14-2007, 11:53 PM
detroit.................

Squishy
02-15-2007, 12:00 AM
im a firm believer in the detroit, there is always the possibility of a selectable not locking that one time you need it, and a detroit is alot easier on stuff than a welded, and open isnt worth my time

4doorShorty
02-15-2007, 08:29 AM
JB weld that puppy up! lol jk

I wouldnt weld it, I dont have experience with 40"+ sized tires, and my D60 is under my powerstroke....but unless youre straight line mud draggin with your truck a welded front is going to be real hard on front end components from the steering box all the way down to the tires. Just my two bits

B
02-15-2007, 08:43 AM
i would not weld my front again... when u get into tires that large even w a external tranny cooler fresh ps box and my supply line over sized once u lock the hubs u don't turn ... even a posi or lockrite for the time being till u can affoerd a detriot would be way more user friendly ... try climbin in to a truck w 16" of lift 30 times in a trail to lock and unlock hubs so u can make corners [wako] ...my 2 c

In The Zone
02-15-2007, 10:22 AM
detroit [36] do not weld it.... u will regret it[16]


even just a stock powerlock from dana u can get one cheap
if set up right will work good but probally not worth shit with 47's

Troy
02-15-2007, 02:51 PM
alright thanks for all the replies. So should I go with the detroit or an ARB? I'm guessing a automatic detroit would be more reliable and less hassle eh? and cheaper

B
02-15-2007, 03:00 PM
detroit ...or like i said lockrights are cheap like 3 bills u probly will ware it or or brake it in three years but still cheap and way better than open ...

Troy
02-15-2007, 03:04 PM
detroit ...or like i said lockrights are cheap like 3 bills u probly will ware it or or brake it in three years but still cheap and way better than open ...

im willing to pay 6 or 7 hundred for a detroit..i wanna do this thing right the first time oh and wheres the best/cheapest place to get a detroit?

alot of questions i know but I'm new to this stuff and it's a whole new experience for me

B
02-15-2007, 03:13 PM
i dont no but i belive 850 is closer for the high pinion ford ... i will be ordering mine soon so have to price it as well

Troy
02-15-2007, 03:19 PM
i dont no but i belive 850 is closer for the high pinion ford ... i will be ordering mine soon so have to price it as well

finally seen the light eh? and it looks like i got more savin to do[27] oh well

jakerngr
02-15-2007, 03:39 PM
yup as others said dont weld it
selectable would be the ultimate but its expencive
detroit would be your best bet if you want to save a little and still be locked up.

Troy
02-15-2007, 04:11 PM
ya the problem now is where the hell to find a detroit for a 78 high pinion and gears?

HEAVY METAL
02-15-2007, 04:14 PM
yeah man.. welded front ends suck....

Kinslayer
02-15-2007, 04:43 PM
I wouldn't weld a front end with 33's, let alone 47s.

In The Zone
02-15-2007, 05:02 PM
Ford D60 hp diffs all use the SAME carrier be aware of this when u order gears or your detroit


un like chev and dodge who have a split.

D60 detroit 800.00 bucks

GEARS 200.00

bearings 120.00

install 24 of beer

wheeling locke dfront and back


PRICELESS

jakerngr
02-15-2007, 05:36 PM
arent d 60 carriers all the same high or low front or rear

Troy
02-15-2007, 05:43 PM
arent d 60 carriers all the same high or low front or rear

i hope so because summit and a bunch of other online suppliers dont have any for "front" let alone high pinion

Squishy
02-15-2007, 05:51 PM
there are 2carriers, 4.10 and down, and 4.56 up, there is no difference in the carrier between high pinion and low pinion, only the carrier splits, and even with the 4.10 down carrier you can buy a "thick" gear and run the 4.56 up ratio's

Troy
02-15-2007, 06:40 PM
there are 2carriers, 4.10 and down, and 4.56 up, there is no difference in the carrier between high pinion and low pinion, only the carrier splits, and even with the 4.10 down carrier you can buy a "thick" gear and run the 4.56 up ratio's

ok that makes sense...do you suggest i buy online or from sport trucks or something:dontknow:

mark
02-15-2007, 06:53 PM
try completeoffroad.com prices semm to be pretty good except you have to see what shipping costs.

patford
02-15-2007, 07:16 PM
north west fab gave me a great price on d60 detroit but i also got axles and
some other parts . With 47" axle and u joints up grades would be a good call.

u2slow
02-15-2007, 07:30 PM
I just put a Lockright in the front of my F350. It came from Complete Offroad. Huge improvement.

It's my first locker, so I wasn't sure if 'd like it. I wasn't regearing, so lunchbox made sense. Didn't have to take the carrier out. Did it in the truck. Running 35's.

I'd do a Detroit if I was putting in gears anyways, and knew how much I'd like a locked front.




I

MetalMan
02-15-2007, 08:33 PM
yeah man.. welded front ends suck....

Troy
02-16-2007, 03:41 PM
i checked out sport trucks in langley today and they want $950 for the full detroit and around 1200 for an arb, and about 500 for a lockright. They said I'm probably going to break any of those anyways, and the lockright is cheap and easy to replace the springs in and it's probably not worth it to spend a bunch on an arb as I could easily break it running 47 inch tires...basically I was expecting them to tell me this anyway so i think I'm going to try a lockright in the front

HEAVY METAL
02-16-2007, 03:54 PM
thats what ahs been reccomended too me also by my buds...

Squishy
02-18-2007, 07:08 PM
i checked out sport trucks in langley today and they want $950 for the full detroit and around 1200 for an arb, and about 500 for a lockright. They said I'm probably going to break any of those anyways, and the lockright is cheap and easy to replace the springs in and it's probably not worth it to spend a bunch on an arb as I could easily break it running 47 inch tires...basically I was expecting them to tell me this anyway so i think I'm going to try a lockright in the front

id spend the extra 300 on the detroit, lockrights are noisy as fuck, and if im not mistaken the detroit has a wicked warranty(and if your changing shafts at the same time, you could go 40 spline)

u2slow
02-18-2007, 07:28 PM
lockrights are noisy as fuck

Mine makes no noise:confused0006:

Troy
02-18-2007, 08:29 PM
pretty sure the trucks going to be noise as fuck anyways with straight pipes i could care less about noise. Sport trucks said they have guys comin all the time running big tires and have tried both detroit then arb and have still managed to blow them up and nothing is covered under warranty and they are stuck having to buy new clutch plates and internal parts for like 300 bucks..

m j
02-20-2007, 10:40 AM
quick hints for ya
do not buy from NSOR or Sport trucks unless you like to throw $$ away

if you want to spend in Canada then NWF is the place to talk to
compare prices including shipping between Complete Offroad and NWF and factor in the Kyle at NWF is a good canadian and deserves our support

I would not waste any time or money on a LOckrite, detroits work and that is all I would run.

the only time I have heard of detroit failing is when a shaft breaks and the shockload pops the detroit

if you want to run huge tires and not break I think you will need to step up on shafts
the best deal seems to be the longfield d60 CV setup at $1800usd. serious $$ for serious bling

In The Zone
02-20-2007, 10:56 AM
I agree with mj if u are running 47" tires and intend on breaking shit the detroit is the best way if u like to steer if not spool it

this way your weak link will be your u joints and or ears.....

unless u step up to after market shafts 40 spline inners and 35 spline outers with ox joints of coarse U could always use a driveline fuse in the front shaft


either way if you intend to break shit u will a good driver can get more places with out breaking shit.
either way it is your $$$ and really no cheap way of doing it.

barracuda
02-20-2007, 11:03 AM
pretty sure the trucks going to be noise as fuck anyways with straight pipes i could care less about noise. Sport trucks said they have guys comin all the time running big tires and have tried both detroit then arb and have still managed to blow them up and nothing is covered under warranty and they are stuck having to buy new CLUTCH PLATES and internal parts for like 300 bucks..

did the story start with once upon a time ??

Murd0c
02-20-2007, 11:04 AM
Just go full detroit since your going to be wheeling in lots of mud you won't have to worry about the detroit. The ARB is known to have problems with engageing and disengageing when playing in mud has Jeepnut about his.

m j
02-20-2007, 11:52 AM
pretty sure the trucks going to be noise as fuck anyways with straight pipes i could care less about noise. Sport trucks said they have guys comin all the time running big tires and have tried both detroit then arb and have still managed to blow them up and nothing is covered under warranty and they are stuck having to buy new CLUTCH PLATES and internal parts for like 300 bucks..

did the story start with once upon a time ??

I was going to reply something similar but the side gears are called clutchs on a detroit, dog clutches but clutches none the less.
the detroit breakage is always the result of a snapped axleshaft, so if you can stop the shaft from popping there is no issue with a detroit.
I would not warrantee anything that breaks like that so I cannot fault Detroit.
their warrantee is against material and workmanship defects, breaking a shaft and shockloading the dif are not Detroits problem.
I popped 4 front shafts and one rear on detroits last year and my detroits are still working fine. (36" tires and 3/4 ton difs and driving pretty gentle)

barracuda
02-20-2007, 12:09 PM
[

I was going to reply something similar but the side gears are called clutchs on a detroit, dog clutches but clutches none the less.
the detroit breakage is always the result of a snapped axleshaft, so if you can stop the shaft from popping there is no issue with a detroit.
I would not warrantee anything that breaks like that so I cannot fault Detroit.
their warrantee is against material and workmanship defects, breaking a shaft and shockloading the dif are not Detroits problem.
I popped 4 front shafts and one rear on detroits last year and my detroits are still working fine. (36" tires and 3/4 ton difs and driving pretty gentle)

I agree but they are dog clutches and i think Detroit used to call them clutch members, but they arent normally called plates unless they are basicly flat and are friction based in design.

It was the "Clutch Plate" part i was referring too

In The Zone
02-20-2007, 12:23 PM
exactly so both the shops he talked to are misleading him

or ill informed themslves

B
02-20-2007, 12:26 PM
quick hints for ya
do not buy from NSOR or Sport trucks unless you like to throw $$ away

if you want to spend in Canada then NWF is the place to talk to
compare prices including shipping between Complete Offroad and NWF and factor in the Kyle at NWF is a good canadian and deserves our support

I would not waste any time or money on a LOckrite, detroits work and that is all I would run.

the only time I have heard of detroit failing is when a shaft breaks and the shockload pops the detroit

if you want to run huge tires and not break I think you will need to step up on shafts
the best deal seems to be the longfield d60 CV setup at $1800usd. serious $$ for serious bling


here it all is kid if i had known this years ago id be thousands ahead now ...

kyle is a good shit [cheers]

Troy
02-20-2007, 03:49 PM
I know obviously not to buy from sport trucks or nsor as they are a rip off (im not stupid i research stuff before i spend money on it) and I'm upgrading to 35 spline outers and i didn't know they had 40 spline inners...

complete offroad online parts

detroit for dana 60 4.56 and up 35 spline -529$
5.38 gears- 190$
dana 60 outer stub shaft 35 spline upgrade -$200
super u joint kit like ox ctm -$400
warn hubs-$200

=$1500 before american dollar exchange and taxes.

+OTT kingpin high steer arms $400 bucks
tie rods, tie rod ends=200-300 max?

does this sound like a decent plan ?

m j
02-20-2007, 04:08 PM
what rear axle? 5.38s are an oddball ratio
if you are running a 14ff I wouldnt go lower then 5.13
get a doubler of some sort

the $200 stub upgrade includes ???
the dana shafts are about $70 each and then you need hubs or flanges to match

barracuda
02-20-2007, 04:13 PM
I know obviously not to buy from sport trucks or nsor as they are a rip off (im not stupid i research stuff before i spend money on it) and I'm upgrading to 35 spline outers and i didn't know they had 40 spline inners...

complete offroad online parts

detroit for dana 60 4.56 and up 35 spline -529$
5.38 gears- 190$
dana 60 outer stub shaft 35 spline upgrade -$200
super u joint kit like ox ctm -$400
warn hubs-$200

=$1500 before american dollar exchange and taxes.

+OTT kingpin high steer arms $400 bucks
tie rods, tie rod ends=200-300 max?

does this sound like a decent plan ?

make sure you get the right detroit . if it is a rev cut gear the detroit is very often thick cut so you would use a 4.10 carrier

Troy
02-20-2007, 04:18 PM
what rear axle? 5.38s are an oddball ratio
if you are running a 14ff I wouldnt go lower then 5.13
get a doubler of some sort

the $200 stub upgrade includes ???
the dana shafts are about $70 each and then you need hubs or flanges to match

I'm not made of money and a doubler is out of the question, its a 1979 Ford F250, I got a 78 high pinion dana 60 for the front and a 86 sterling 10.25 for the rear. Complete offroad and some other sites sell 5.38's for both the axles i have. Im going to be running 47 inch tires. I'm building the truck for mud.

Complete offroad says right here just the 35 spline outers (im guessing thats a stub shaft in other words) http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/i-1004_dana_60_stub_axle_35_spline_4340_ford.html 100 bucks each i would assume x2. Then I would have to get some decent u joints whether it be dana spicer ones or the 400 dollar ones. I just want to get the right parts so the first day out i dont blow shit up. On top of that im going to be buying either 1350 or 1410 yokes x4.

m j
02-20-2007, 05:54 PM
that is a really good price for Yukon chrome moly stubs, the stock dana stubs were $70 last I looked.
make sure you get them to ship USPS to avoid the huge ripoff brokerage fees.
they were great to deal with for my order.

you would still need a 35 spline driveflange or hub to match
you have to decide which you prefer

huge tires I assumed deep pockets, to rich for me but I hope to be up to 42s soon

Troy
02-20-2007, 07:19 PM
make sure you get the right detroit . if it is a rev cut gear the detroit is very often thick cut so you would use a 4.10 carrier

ya im pretty sure my dana 60 is not a reverse cut. So I would just order this one...

http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/i-167_detroit_locker-dana_60-35_spline_456_up.html

4.56 & Up gears,35 spline, detroit locker

the front dana 60 is a 1978 ford high pinion. And i think reverse cut were in the early 90's dana 60's if im not mistaken.

barracuda
02-20-2007, 07:21 PM
Perhaps this might help you out

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana60.htm

In The Zone
02-20-2007, 08:00 PM
ya im pretty sure my dana 60 is not a reverse cut. So I would just order this one...

http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/i-167_detroit_locker-dana_60-35_spline_456_up.html

4.56 & Up gears,35 spline, detroit locker

the front dana 60 is a 1978 ford high pinion. And i think reverse cut were in the early 90's dana 60's if im not mistaken.

if you got a d60 from a 78 ford it must be hi pinion meaning reverse cut gears....
been that way till present and all hp ford d60's use a 4:10 carrier.. with thick cut gears do your home work or u are going to be spending a lot of money..when u order the detroit u must specify the correct information
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

post some pics..

Troy
02-20-2007, 08:00 PM
Perhaps this might help you out

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana60.htm

ya ive been to that site a few times i couldnt remember if it was a reverse spiral or not, according to that site it is. And im shit outta luck finding a detroit for reverse spiral gears then...

http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/c-27_dana_60_reverse_cut_gears.html

unless theres another site that sells em:dontknow:

and thanks for pointing that out to me

Troy
02-20-2007, 08:19 PM
ring gear 3.73 stock gears
44854
44855
the carrier
44856

m j
02-20-2007, 08:40 PM
Ford did not offer 3.73 in those trucks, it was 3.54 or 4.10
Ford only used the standard 4.10 carrier, there is no special highpinion/reverse cut carrier
check with u2slow on newer stuff as ford started offering deep gears late in the game but the old stuff was 4.10 or 3.54 and anything lower used an ?aftermarket? thick gearset

you do need reverse cut gears in 78 and up, so check if the 5.38s are available for fords fronts, you never know with odd ratios

m j
02-20-2007, 08:45 PM
just checked your links to complete.
looks like you are good to go with either carrier break.

Troy
02-20-2007, 09:28 PM
just checked your links to complete.
looks like you are good to go with either carrier break.


as in the detroit will work whether its a reverse cut or not...its the gears that matter. Now it makes sense thats what i wanted to know[cheers]

brandonf250
02-21-2007, 10:27 AM
sounds like its gonna be a sweet truck

m j
02-21-2007, 05:05 PM
I would keep it traditional Ford style and run a 4.10 style detroit with thick 5.38 rev cut gears

Troy
02-21-2007, 06:31 PM
I would keep it traditional Ford style and run a 4.10 style detroit with thick 5.38 rev cut gears

what would be the purpose of that

In The Zone
02-21-2007, 06:39 PM
:dontknow:just what he said thicker gears:rolleyes:

if u use the 4:56 carrier your gears will be thinner cut... in the 5:13 range....

m j
02-21-2007, 11:12 PM
the reason is to keep it like ford built it. ford did not use the other carrier (in any of the years we use parts from)

with the 4.10 carrier (stock style so you know it fits without issues) you can run any ratio from 3.54 to 5.38 (or what ever the deepest offered thick rev-cut gear is)

with the 4.56 carrier you can only run 4.56 to 7.17(or what ever the deepest thin rev-cut gear is)

that way when you I buy it from you in a couple of years I can use the detroit for my 4.10s, er I mean you can use it in your next build

In The Zone
02-22-2007, 03:15 PM
here are the choices i could source for available standard industry gear choices
RATIO CUT COUNT


3.54 regular / reverse 46-13
3.73 regular 41-11
4.10 regular / reverse 41-10
4.30 regular (uses 4.10 carrier)
4.30 reverse
4.56 regular / reverse / reverse thick 41-9
4.88 regular / reverse / reverse thick 39-8
5.13 regular / reverse / reverse thick 41-8
5.38 regular / reverse
5.86 regular 41-7
6.17 regular 37-6
7.17 regular 43-6