PDA

View Full Version : welded up now


J20
01-14-2007, 12:06 AM
well ive been talkin about welding my 60 for about a year.............so i finnally got up the balls to do it today............well my buddy Andrew did the welding i watched an sipped my beer.............

http://ca.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fsjwheeler/album?.dir=/96b8scd

waggie
01-14-2007, 12:09 AM
[36]

man is that gunna do wonders for the daily driver


should work great in the bush[36]

J20
01-14-2007, 12:12 AM
Dude im surprized its really not bad on the road...........the 20 has alota wheel base and i think it helps .........it really doesnt chirp as much as i thought.........plus i got a set of 35 inch AT'S im going to run on the street.........:dontknow:

m j
01-14-2007, 10:37 AM
if the stock shafts are less then 1.5" you should measure the length of them now so you know which aftermarket ones to order after they snap.

FU Toolbag
01-14-2007, 11:18 AM
if the stock shafts are less then 1.5" you should measure the length of them now so you know which aftermarket ones to order after they snap.

If he's runnin 35's, won't be a problem. I ran 44's on a welded front, and in fact had no rear shafs for several weeks, driving onthe front only on dry roads, in the springtime. No problems.

My only concern is how it was done. Why did you do it in place? Doesn't look like you protected the r&p at all. Also, your ground is on the housing, which means the bearings are taking the curent, not a good idea.

Always broke
01-14-2007, 11:18 AM
The all terrains will put more stress on the axles on the street than the mud tires because they have more contact patch but it's not that bad just dont be doing any burnouts and donuts on the dry pavement and you should be just fine[cheers]

HEAVY METAL
01-14-2007, 11:20 AM
The all terrains will put more stress on the axles on the street than the mud tires because they have more contact patch but it's not that bad just dont be doing any burnouts and donuts on the dry pavement and you should be just fine[cheers]


why not???????? i do! :D

Chewtoy
01-14-2007, 11:31 AM
My only concern is how it was done. Why did you do it in place? Doesn't look like you protected the r&p at all. Also, your ground is on the housing, which means the bearings are taking the curent, not a good idea.

I agree... you're looking for trouble doing it that way. Digging off road in 4low puts way more stress on axles imo than driving on pavement with a welded diff. I wouldn't trade my old welded diffs for anythig but a good selectable locker (just to show people the difference they make). I figure a lighter truck is easier on axles than a heavy one, but I think most of the pavement axle breakers already have some damage done before they get locked up.

deuce
01-14-2007, 11:54 AM
is it better to stick weld the diff
or mig weld(wire feed)?

Toy_Runner
01-14-2007, 11:56 AM
stick IMO

FU Toolbag
01-14-2007, 12:03 PM
is it better to stick weld the diff
or mig weld(wire feed)?

stick, with a nickle rod prefered.

m j
01-14-2007, 12:35 PM
I broke mine with 36" tires and a detroit
they are tiny 1.3" shafts

Big Mitch
01-14-2007, 12:58 PM
that should be fun

jakerngr
01-14-2007, 01:25 PM
hows the welding spatter on the ring gear look

deuce
01-14-2007, 01:29 PM
stick, with a nickle rod prefered.

i guess its easier to get in there with stick:rockhorns:

J20
01-14-2007, 01:33 PM
hows the welding spatter on the ring gear look
had anti splatter on the ring gear and what i could get to on the pinion and cleaned it up real good after...........i drove it home (n van to cloverdale) and changed the fluid and will change it again after a couple days.............i never thought about the bearing concern[27] heres hopng it will be aight:dontknow: ............

FU Toolbag
01-14-2007, 01:50 PM
i guess its easier to get in there with stick:rockhorns:

NO, not really a problem, it's that stick welded is usually stronger than mig. Mig has the advantage of no slag, but unless your usinga metal core or some other high tensile wire, your going to be welding a veryy strong steel with a rather weak steel. Those like to break, dissimmilar metals and all. Gears are a high nickel alloy, usually, and the ni-rod usually works best.

J20
01-14-2007, 02:16 PM
ya we used the ni-rod.........well Andrew did hes the welder ..........i think it was 70100 some shit like that

Chewtoy
01-14-2007, 02:40 PM
Toy rear, 4.3L Chev, 39.5 swamps, 38 Michelins, P-auto migged third, and never an issue. I think technique has a lot to do with it. I've never seen one last that was just the spiders welded together... or one of the teeth filled in. My big concern is it arc'd one of the bearings... time will tell I guess. Bet offroading is a whole new ballgame now though....