View Full Version : SAS, is it worth it?

12-29-2006, 10:23 PM
Right now, I have springs in the back of my bronco for a 3" lift, and with a Shackle flip I figure I can get another 2" of lift.

Now the front of my truck sits stock height, plus an inch or two. I have a two inch body lift, so more than enough to fit my goal of 35 or 36 inch tires.

now, I would like to drop in a 429 or a 460 Big Block and a Five speed eventually, but for now it's a smallblock that may or may not get a Cam and Headers to compliment the Intake and Carb I already put on. With my Skinny-pedal heavy driving style, I serioustly doubt that the poor TTB will survive running through the mud around here, even before I add another 158 cubic inches.

If I do a SAS, it'll have to be a Leaf spring because I simply don't have the time, money, or patience to do a coil sprung setup with radius arms or a four link. :confused0006: That and getting a whole F350 to use for parts would make life much easier.

But right now, is it worth it to swap in a solid axle, just for the lift right now, and for the peace of mind of not demolishing the TTB somewhere offroad?

[cheers] Cheers.

FU Toolbag
12-29-2006, 11:55 PM
I wouldn't. Find yourself a ford or late dodge d60, the dodge will need some changes, and there are several places to get quick install kits to put them in your truck with the existing coils. Going to all that work and only getting slightly better durability.

It's not hard to stick with the coils, actually harder to go with leafs.

12-30-2006, 01:25 AM
yeah since the bko is set up for coils it will take more fab work to run leafs. Especially if you want to run a rear shackle, unless you use an F250/350 front spring rear perch...but then your caster is insane and your shackle will be way down in harms way. Pulling the coil perch off the TTB and fabbing it up to fit a 70s radius arm would be the easiest, even easier than using 70s coil buckets and perches. If you can find a cheap used TTB lift I would run it untill the TTB broke, while saving up the parts for the SFA install. Ill bet you end up swapping out the TTB before you break it.
BTW the front is a 3 link, 2-radius arm points + 1-trac bar point

12-30-2006, 09:06 PM
as far as I've seen, a leaf SAS only means taking out everything TTB related, throwing on some front and rear shackles, and put the steering in. I wasn't aware that it was horribly complicated, and I've been doing my research. Throw on four brackets, two shackles and two springs and it pretty much works fine. Even the front hangers, while riding low, are pretty tough and can take a little punishment. I was thinking about just a complete swap from a F350, much like yours.

a Coil setup though, even from a 70s means relocating the trans mount, cutting the engine crossmember, getting/building radius arms, building or buying all the bracketry, and building the track bar.

12-30-2006, 09:11 PM
either way is easy. ive done both, and both can be finished in a weekend

12-30-2006, 09:18 PM
Yeah, but I can't do the fabrication/tools nessairy for a Coil SAS. Thats why I want to do a Leaf spring. Either way I can't afford to do this yet, I'm just judging my options before I shell out money for a useless TTB lift or a crapped out F350.

Mr. Bob
12-31-2006, 01:25 AM
I did my bronco with a coil 44... was a nice swap... did nothing to my cross member or trans mount...

Used the stock 77 upper coil buckets, 6" 79 bronco front springs, 77 front disc diff, james duff arms... ECT

I think I did most of it for $1000... $300 for the diff COMPLETE with steering and all that.... $400 for the used radius arms... $300 for the rest...

Was done in one night and one morning... 6PM friday till 2 pm saturday... was not working from 2 am till 11 am....

The upside to the F350 swap is you get the D60.... Hard to find a doner for $1000 though

12-31-2006, 01:29 AM
my truck has the shackles up front, which im sure youre well aware of. They dont bolt on the bottom of the frame to a hanger tho, they go right up inside the channel. Fab work there would be needed, either to cut the bottom lip of the C-channel out and box in around it, or fab up a front perch from scratch....unless you can find a perch for a 3" spring that bolts directly under the frame.
Leaf springs will be easier to tune...just add and subtract leafs, find packs with more/less arch. Coils arent tuneable like that. I like leaf springs for that reason.
Ive never heard of people needing to cut or mod xmembers, especially the engine one. The tranny one I can see due to driveshaft clearance, but that doesnt matter what kind of lift its all in the angles.
My F350s tranny x-member is different from my BKO/F150 ones. Ill get pics tomorow.

12-31-2006, 01:37 AM
Yeah, thats one of the things. To find a Good Dana 60 would cost a grand in itself, so if I can find a F350 for somewhere around that, and get all the suspension parts I need too is a bonus.

Still, the SAS will have to wait until I have some money.

As for spring hangers: a 2x4 piece of steel and some square pieces work pretty well, as I've seen:

12-31-2006, 10:45 AM
yeah, still fab work....theres more in that crossmember than there is in a complete 70s coil suspension set up. Not to mention unless you get an 85+ D60, you need to fab new spring perches on the axle. I always figured a coil set up would be easiest anways....2 radius arms to locate the axle and 2 coil buckets to mount the springs under.

12-31-2006, 03:03 PM
I used the existing coil buckets in the '85, a '79 d44 with 6" lift springs.
'79 radius arms, ya just measure back from existing frame holes and drill and mount the stock '79 r/a brackets and it locates the axle perfectly.
used panhard bar from '79 axle as well.
Panhard bracket needs to be fabbed and welded to frame after axle is installed with springs etc and centered properly, left to right.
Flip stock tierod to top of knuckles (need special hone) for poor mans hi steer then fab or buy custom drag link.
you use the stock pitman arm as well.
Fits 36" tsl's no problem with no fender trimming

Trimmed the engine crossmember a bit (just in case:D )