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Kinslayer
12-18-2006, 11:19 AM
Anyone use em? What kinds of speeds do you get without vibration? if you use a rear one anyway..

I read a thread for these on pirate4x4.com, but wanted your guys opinions and experiences..maybe pics too.

jakerngr
12-18-2006, 11:45 AM
i wouldnt use one in the rear if its driven on the street.

Squishy
12-18-2006, 01:37 PM
they use them in the front for low speed crawling, nothing over 30km/h would be my guess

Kinslayer
12-18-2006, 02:00 PM
One dude on pirate says he has a rear that works good up to 40mph. I don't plan on making a rear one, but a front seems feasible.

Big_Ern
12-18-2006, 02:11 PM
I can do about 60km/h with mine before the vibes get too bad

Just make sure its nice and tight. I ran a couple beads of weld down the inner tube and then ground them to the point it had to be hammered on to put back in the outter tube. Now that I've driven on it it has loosened up and moves freely.

jakerngr
12-18-2006, 02:34 PM
just cut off 2 inches of the outer tube turn it as much as you can with the inner and outer together and weld it back to the outer tube. that will almost eliminate slop from forward to reverse

Big_Ern
12-18-2006, 02:41 PM
just cut off 2 inches of the outer tube turn it as much as you can with the inner and outer together and weld it back to the outer tube. that will almost eliminate slop from forward to reverse

I've read about that method. Never actually tried it, but it sounds like it would work really well

Kinslayer
12-18-2006, 04:18 PM
That's a sneaky idea, actually. Hey Ern/Jaker, got any photos of yours?

FU Toolbag
12-18-2006, 11:37 PM
I gotta ask here, why would you do that? Making your own driveshaft with propper tube and splines is so much easier than all this, and it works properly. The only advantage would be the lenght possib with square tubing. I've seen them before and didn't get it then. Still don't get it.

Big_Ern
12-19-2006, 12:17 AM
In a typicle front leaf setup with the fixed point in the front and shackles in the back you need around 8" splines if you've got a flexy suspension. not many vehicles come stock with spline that long, and aftermarket long slip splines are rather expensive.

so, if you got a welder you can build one yourself for cheap/free and have unlimited slip. Just weld the yolks from your old shaft on and you're good to go. Plus a square shaft is indestructible


but if you got the $$$ to spend, definitly go buy a real shaft

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 12:30 AM
Yeah, the key really is "Anyone with a welder can make an indestructable driveshaft"

So who wants to make one for me? hehe

ri0
12-19-2006, 07:21 AM
if yeah want I can build yeah one, you supply the tube I do the welding, $40
604-786-8922 sean

I have made a few of em

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 10:14 AM
10-4. I guess the next question is - what kind of tube would ya use? I was thinking that receiver hitch and hitch tubing would work good.

jakerngr
12-19-2006, 01:08 PM
dragged over mandrel

Troy
12-19-2006, 02:38 PM
dragged over mandrel

drawn over mandrel (DOM) or seamless tubing[cheers]

jakerngr
12-19-2006, 03:14 PM
dragged drawn i couldnt remeber

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 03:40 PM
10-4 on that

FU Toolbag
12-19-2006, 06:57 PM
My tlc had enough flex that the axles would go 90 degrees to each other. I just used standard ford slips and never had a problem. The rear was built from 3 different shafts, and also worked great, untill I did a small weelie in a 6,000 lb cruiser with 44's. Shaft survived, u-joint exploded.

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 07:28 PM
So what would happen if you got real custom and added a U-joint in the middle of it?

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 08:40 PM
..Then you would have a two peice driveshaft, heh.

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 08:54 PM
I've got a not so good front driveshaft angle. It'll live, but I want to lift more...this is starting to sound like a good cheap solution.

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 08:56 PM
square tube shafts wont help with angle - they only help with ease of creation and potential travel range. If you have issues with angle get a CV or cut and turn your axle...or more costly, get a high-pinion axle.

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 09:06 PM
That's not what I'm saying, but on reflection my idea would necessitate a support at the middle of the driveshaft and I'm not sure mine would be long enough for that to begin with. I'm trying to find a cheap alternative to having somebody build me a dual-U setup.

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 09:10 PM
a cheap alternative would be to get a wedge 'lift' block made up with very little material (for no real lift, only to turn the axle).

You'd probably want to weld it to your axle though, to avoid any issues with shifting affecting your steering.

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 09:16 PM
Believe it or not, pretty much all that has been done. T-case is dropped too. The front driveshaft is really short...I want another 4" or so, I don't really have any options other than adding another U-joint. CV would be even more expensive than that I would think.

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 09:36 PM
I think you can get higher end ujoints that operate at crazy angles..would be easy to install, an expensive joint though.

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 10:52 PM
Hm I might just try and hillbilly together something myself, I do have a welder and a grinder, and plenty of redneck ingenuity...

The angle of the driveshaft is actually great coming off the diff, it's coming off the transfer case where it's pretty sharp. An extra U-joint would totally solve that issue.

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 11:00 PM
Go check out a 2wd rear shaft - 2 peice, with a crossmember you might be able to scoop.

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 11:25 PM
Well that's what I was thinking originally, a totally custom square driveshaft with a U-joint in the center. But I think it would cause more problems than it would solve, my front driveshaft probably isn't even 2ft long. I doubt I'd have room for a crossmember up there, and even then I might not have enough of a slippage safety margin. I think I'm going to try and build myself a double U-joint setup onto the t-case end of my driveshaft, it can't be any sketchier than building a square tube driveshaft.

Kinslayer
12-19-2006, 11:33 PM
err, what kind of truck to you have?

check out the 80 degree CV:
http://chevy.off-road.com/chevy/data/articlestandard/chevy/472005/200773/80degree.jpg

if you are going to make a 'double ujoint', you might as well rig up a CV:
http://chevy.off-road.com/chevy/data/articlestandard/chevy/472005/200773/newcv2.jpg

MetalMan
12-19-2006, 11:38 PM
Well 2ft might be a bit of an exaggeration, but you get the idea. This is my truck http://www.funinbc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73208

When I think CV's, I think FWD axles. Your second pic is exactly what I want to build. I figure with an extra yoke or two I could redneck something decent together.

Kinslayer
12-20-2006, 12:02 AM
those are basically stock chev ones man, you should just steal one and make it your own

toy80
12-20-2006, 12:12 AM
i would use dom tube good ends and my dial indicator,let me know if we can help....alsek ind

Big_Ern
12-20-2006, 12:34 AM
Believe it or not, pretty much all that has been done. T-case is dropped too. The front driveshaft is really short...I want another 4" or so, I don't really have any options other than adding another U-joint. CV would be even more expensive than that I would think.

put in a doubler/dual t-cases. it'll solve all your driveline angle issues

Kinslayer
12-20-2006, 01:06 AM
put in a doubler/dual t-cases. it'll solve all your driveline angle issues

Fuck yeah!

MetalMan
12-20-2006, 06:06 PM
put in a doubler/dual t-cases. it'll solve all your driveline angle issues


I kind of want to avoid serious driveline mods until I get serious with the truck itself, IMO 1/2T driveline isn't worth that investment. Some year in the future when the diffs get upgraded, and maybe when I'm bored with mud, I'll consider more interesting modifications.

those are basically stock chev ones man, you should just steal one and make it your own

Seriously??? I had no idea, I don't really play with Chevs. Until now all my 4x4's have been Dodges. What Chevs in particular should I be looking for? That would be mint, it would make things really easy.

FU Toolbag
12-20-2006, 06:06 PM
Just move your front axle forward a foot or 2. That'll fix er good.

MetalMan
12-20-2006, 06:18 PM
Should I replace my muffler bearings and get a new powerband for the driveshaft while I'm doing that?

Kinslayer
12-20-2006, 07:53 PM
As far as I know most 70s-80s chev front driveshafts have that CV at the top

FU Toolbag
12-20-2006, 08:25 PM
Should I replace my muffler bearings and get a new powerband for the driveshaft while I'm doing that?

Muffler bearings?? Powerband for your driveshaft?? Whatever your taking, I want some.

MetalMan
12-20-2006, 08:25 PM
Hm okay I'll hunt around

MetalMan
12-20-2006, 08:27 PM
Muffler bearings?? Powerband for your driveshaft?? Whatever your taking, I want some.

I'm high man, HIGH ON LIFE

slowdodge
12-24-2006, 03:45 PM
Cut and turn is a good option even though you got 1/2t axles it's good practice for when you find a 60. make a jig and save it for later.

Kinslayer
01-22-2007, 01:12 PM
Hm okay I'll hunt around


Hey, how is your hillbilly madness going? I finally found my old front shaft (one with roasted off splines, I keep everything, heh), gonna use it for the yokes on the square unit, and the CV of course.

epic3
01-22-2007, 05:44 PM
ford bronco and f150's also use the same cv as the previos one posted

MetalMan
01-22-2007, 05:54 PM
My hillbilly madness has gone nowhere...took it out, wheeled it, broke it. I'm going to focus on getting my crotch rocket put back together, then I'll devote my time and money to the beast. It needs a lot of both...

epic3
01-22-2007, 06:22 PM
hillbilly madness usually is only usefull for gettin ya out of the trails