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View Full Version : anyone running a rev limited?


tenpack
12-18-2006, 07:33 AM
my new motors coming in, and on advise by manfucature and common sense by myself, im looking to get a rev limited. I'm running a Accel HEI disty, im assuming any company's controller will work.

Couple questions, how hard are they to install? I'm not too good with wiring[32]

Any brand better than the others? They mostly seem to be around 250-300 bucks.

Oh, due to the cam specs and whatnot my red line is gonna be 4500. thanks

Cheeky
12-18-2006, 01:26 PM
talk to pegleg[15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15]

Squishy
12-18-2006, 02:02 PM
msd makes one i believe, but why not a tach with a shift light, and watch your foot?

MetalMan
12-18-2006, 06:13 PM
You can get HEI modules with built in rev limiters. Should run you less than 100 bucks, and it's a way better solution than an external rev limiter for an HEI. Why are you limiting to 4500 though? There's no point in that. Even with the lamest of stock cams I'd still let it rev to 5000.

boyzen
12-18-2006, 06:29 PM
msd makes one i believe, but why not a tach with a shift light, and watch your foot?

that would be fine driveing on the street but when its mud or rough terrain good fucking luck.

I use msd ignition with a built in rev limiter and its the soft touch rev limiter so its not so rough sounding it shuts down every second cyl every second strock works great!

MetalMan
12-18-2006, 07:14 PM
I just noticed it's a new motor...same thing, get the module, but limit it to 3500. Leave it there until the next oil change (after the break in). You don't want too many revs on a new motor period.

Tunabomber
12-18-2006, 07:18 PM
i ran msd in my t/a wif a limiter was pretty cool
she had about 400 hp and i had no prob letting the wife drive it
cause i just set it for 2000 rpm that way i still had rubber when she got home

Crazy_Eye
12-18-2006, 07:25 PM
that would be fine driveing on the street but when its mud or rough terrain good fucking luck.



damn straight. I tried that doin donuts. was all good at liek 5000 then it picked up the inside rear tire and all hell broke loose. thought I might of had a stock rev limiter but I may have floated the valves instead

Lurker
12-19-2006, 12:02 AM
Yep the nice thing with the MSD 6AL is that they give you a few chips so that you can set your rev limiter for whatever you want. Mine came with a 3000 plus a small handful more.

mini
12-20-2006, 01:02 AM
holley makes a good box w/adjustable rev limiter in them and they work awsome we use them in our cars at wokr and never have a prob with them

FINGERS
12-20-2006, 06:23 AM
talk to pegleg[15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15]








Bahahahahahahahahahahahahah

tenpack
12-20-2006, 07:48 AM
I just noticed it's a new motor...same thing, get the module, but limit it to 3500. Leave it there until the next oil change (after the break in). You don't want too many revs on a new motor period.


Scott at Dun-Rite said dont baby it but dont drive the living shit out of it, just drive it normally at first and once shes been running for around a 30 minutes, run it hard.


I got a tach, but i gotta re-wire it.

Lordco had one by mallory for $200, any good? $100-$300 is my price range.


Thanks

MetalMan
12-20-2006, 06:13 PM
Well then Scott at Dun-Rite smokes crack. You do NOT want to abuse a new motor! The first thousand K should be babied to make the most of the motor, but definetely baby it the first 500. Try not to rev any higher than 3500-4000 under any circumstances, and try to stay off the freeway...the more variation in revs the better, ie. in town driving. Break it in for 30 minutes or so when it's fresh, if it has a flat tappet cam bring the revs up to 2000-2500 and make sure it fires right up!!! Don't crank and crank if it won't go, figure out why first. Best idea is to prime the float bowls, and triple check your timing before firing. Keep the revs up for 10 or 15 minutes, then start varying from there down to 1500 for another 5-10 minutes. Then set the idle (and timing if you haven't already) and dump the oil. I'd even put a couple litres through to flush it out. Fill it up, change the filter, and do as I mentioned above for 500km. Then change the oil again, and it should be okay to start having fun with if you absolutely can't wait. If you don't follow break in procedure, you'll wind up with a motor that doesn't live as long as it should, doesn't have all the power it should, and probably burns oil.

MetalMan
12-20-2006, 06:16 PM
As for the module, if that's what you're talking about (the Mallory with built in rev limiter) that's actually the best rev-limiting module you can buy right now. Set it 1-2 hundred rpm higher than you want to limit your motor though, they start limiting a bit earlier than they show (probably to make it a bit more idiot proof).

tenpack
12-21-2006, 07:36 AM
ITs a propane motor running 10.75:1. He said basically when its first fired up dont let it idle and keep it around 1200-1500 RPM, revving it slowly up and down a little bit, then when you get in to drive it, drive it around town and let it warm up really good. Drive it around but dont baby it. My plans are to drive it around town for a couple hours, make sure everythings good. COming back and changing the oil/filter, then im gonna drive it to the wack or something like that for a continuous break in.

Ian
12-23-2006, 02:57 PM
Scott knows what he is talking about, he has been building motors for a long time so listen to him. I break in every motor I build hard, all make great power and never have any problems. Most performance engines are broken in on the dyno or the dragstrip, some people just have no clue. [16]

MetalMan
12-23-2006, 04:04 PM
Scott knows what he is talking about, he has been building motors for a long time so listen to him. I break in every motor I build hard, all make great power and never have any problems. Most performance engines are broken in on the dyno or the dragstrip, some people just have no clue. [16]


Not if they go into a daily driver they sure don't. If you build a motor for racing you don't have the option of breaking it in properly, and often it won't live a long life no matter what. Listening to what just one guy tells you is pretty ignorant, and I don't care how many motors he's built. Some of the old school guys tell the biggest myths. If you want a long lived motor, break it in slowly and do it right. And leaving rubber all over the place as soon as its running is not doing it right. Simple as that.

Crazy_Eye
12-23-2006, 04:22 PM
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

theres a lil readin for ya. When I first heard of hard break ins I thought they were fucked till I read that. Makes it seem legit

tenpack
12-23-2006, 04:38 PM
I'm not gonna lay a patch as soon as a fire up the motor for the 1st time. I agree 100% with the immediate oil change, as a precaution. I'll look into the hyfire one, it will have to wait till next paycheck. Spent $1900 today:rolleyes:


but, new engine, tranny filter/pan gasket, ATF, blah blah.

MetalMan
12-23-2006, 04:40 PM
His understanding of cylinder pressures is flawed, and he focusses on newer cars an motorcycles. He doesn't actually explain much. I'd look for more info than that before ever breaking in a motor...

MetalMan
12-23-2006, 04:42 PM
Yikes...but yeah, the Mallory is an awesome module. Overall, the HEI is a good ignition system, a lot of people replace it with crazy ignition systems when they aren't really necessary.