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the_balls
11-15-2006, 12:22 AM
hey y'all,

i've got a bit of a problem with the rear diff in the yota. when we swapped one in the feller helpin thought it would be a good idea to put the plug in with an impact and it is of course now in there for life [27].the thing is completely round from trying to remove it conventially, we welded a nut on the end of it but still no dice, it just broke off. now i'm thinkin about the only way to do 'er is to drill it out,tap it and put a smaller bolt in it. i'd rather not of course due to the metal shavings that would end up in the diff, i'm afraid i wouldn't be able to flush them all out so if anyone else has any ideas let me know please. with the slow pinion seal leak it won't be long before this one grenades.

thanks in advance fella's and fellete's [cheers]

Big_Ern
11-15-2006, 12:30 AM
get a better welder and weld a as big of a nut to it as you can. weld around the outside and fill the inside. Make sure both bolts are as clean as possible for the best weld.

then wait a while for the bolt to cool off and heat the housing around it. use a large cheater bar on the end of your ratchet (or breaker bar) and hope for the best. make sure your using a 6 point socket as well.




or very carefully drill it out. Start small in the very center and keep using a bigger and bigger bit until you get to basically the same size as the threads (without damaging them). You should then be able to remove the rest of the nut pretty easily.

Hello Kitty
11-15-2006, 12:33 AM
pound on a 6 point socket and get er off. done it with wheel locks before.

bakelite
11-15-2006, 02:10 AM
like Ern says.....heat is your friend [cheers]

Dieseljeep
11-15-2006, 04:15 AM
heat it and beat it !

Tmax
11-15-2006, 08:13 AM
get a better welder and weld a as big of a nut to it as you can. weld around the outside and fill the inside. Make sure both bolts are as clean as possible for the best weld.

then wait a while for the bolt to cool off and heat the housing around it. use a large cheater bar on the end of your ratchet (or breaker bar) and hope for the best. make sure your using a 6 point socket as well.




or very carefully drill it out. Start small in the very center and keep using a bigger and bigger bit until you get to basically the same size as the threads (without damaging them). You should then be able to remove the rest of the nut pretty easily.



yap what he said but weld a socket on instead of the nut. if you're gonna drill a hole pack, pack it with grease and it'll catch most of the shavings and dont be shy to heat the housing when you're at it. its not that bad if you just put some time into it.

Big_Ern
11-15-2006, 12:05 PM
also, since its a toy diff, pull the axles and take out the 3rd so you can look inside and see what you're doing. Especially helps if you're drilling it out to be able to see if you're drilling straight thru and not damaging the threads. Easy to clean up any shavings and you won't have to worry about them getting on the gears.

Chewtoy
11-15-2006, 06:15 PM
Best way to do the nut trick is to get a big washer (body style) hole in washer should be about as big as what you want out. Weld snot out of washer onto plug... then weld big nut that is almost as big as washer to it. Trying to weld inside of a nut rarely works, and finding a nut that will fit inside the size of the plug means it's usually too small to weld it from the outside right. Even if you build the washer out of flat plate or something, it doens't have to be pretty. As long as it is breaking off at the weld, it just means you need a better welder (unit or operator).

the_balls
11-16-2006, 06:48 PM
alright thanks for the advice guys. looks like i'm gonna have to try the welding option again, hopefully i can get it into my dads work and do it there, if not, any body need some beer [32]

kootenaycat
11-16-2006, 08:49 PM
Hammer and chisel works great to break it loose, but easier if you have access to a really good air chisel, they do wonders for breaking loose fasteners that are siezed. I use mine all the time at work. It takes some finesse, but I've loosened nuts that I couldn't budge with a 1/2" flex bar and a 3' snipe!

trailburban
11-16-2006, 11:06 PM
if it's an external square then just get a stripped nut removal kit (sears, kms, crappy tire, ect.), hammer it on then put an impact on the remover.
if it's a recessed square then use lots of heat and penetrating fluid with a reverse drill bit.

if you end up drilling it out then just remove the plate and ductape the bottom of the plug to catch the filings (there won't be that many if you keep the area clean (air gun) while drilling).

the_balls
11-16-2006, 11:41 PM
it's an external one but it is so thin that I don't think I'd be able to get much bite with the stripped nut remover. could anybody in Maple Ridge weld a nut onto it for me since I lack access to such things, I'll bring the beer.

Pook
11-18-2006, 12:56 AM
you can pull a third member stud near the top and fill it up from there...or try pouring oil down the breather theres is abit of a baffle in there though.

trailburban
11-18-2006, 11:07 AM
is there enough metal left to grind it down so you can get a couple flat edges on it for a wrench?

Big_Ern
11-18-2006, 10:51 PM
you can pull a third member stud near the top and fill it up from there...or try pouring oil down the breather theres is abit of a baffle in there though.
I usually just add it thru the diff breather. Works pretty good. Its a little slow, but a lot easier & faster than hastling with a rubber hose or something for my front diff since the filler is set way back in the diff armour.

Troy
11-18-2006, 11:11 PM
just get a socket or a huge nut and weld the living shit out of it and make sure you or whoever welds it cranks up the heat penetrate it real good and then get a big ass breaker bar or pipe and yank that shit out[36]

HEAVY METAL
11-19-2006, 01:31 AM
..................

the_balls
11-19-2006, 12:14 PM
^ you would think so but i haven't noticed such a thing.

thanks for the suggestions guys.