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View Full Version : Intake Manifold Gasket replacement


dilbert_1239
08-21-2006, 11:23 PM
just wondering how hard replacing the intake manifold gasket is. Ive never done it before and i know it needs to be done as it was just puking out everywhere. i was also wondering if since ive gone some stuff taken apart already if there is anything that would be worth my while to take off and replace/check. any help would be NICE

Jroc
08-22-2006, 12:04 PM
if the bolts are as rust as mine just let it leak, because if you break them you have to drill out the old bolt and helical the hole and buy new bolts, somtimes this requires pulling out the engine

MUD CHILD
08-22-2006, 12:37 PM
It is not that hard of a job at all

1 drain cooling system
2 remove upper rad hose from the thermostat housing
3 remove alternator and bracket
4 remove valve covers
5 rotate engine to tdc and remove distributor
6 remove heater hoses
7 loosen intake bolts and remove may have to pry it a little to break the old
gasket seal
8 remove all old gasket from intake and engine
9 once it is all clean you can start to put it back together
10 when tightening intake down start in the middle and work your way out in
a criss cross pattern torque intake to 30 ft-lbs[cheers]

SBC hris
08-22-2006, 05:04 PM
If its fuel injection its probably alot harder.

BigBlockChevy
08-22-2006, 06:46 PM
just involves removing thefuel rails if its efi or the tb if its tbi... should be the only difference between the carb and fuel injection...


make sure you get it all good and clean and dontlet shit get inside...

jakerngr
08-22-2006, 06:50 PM
what motor??? pretty basic stuff just go on the net and get a diagram for tourque sequence and specs for putting it back on so you dont end up with another leak

dilbert_1239
08-23-2006, 12:26 AM
it is just a chevy 350

sj-x 500
08-23-2006, 12:48 AM
do a spiral sequance.

middle two, next two to the left, next to to the right of the first two, and work your way out.

jakerngr
08-23-2006, 06:02 PM
are you done

dilbert_1239
08-23-2006, 09:15 PM
nah im not done yet, appaerently i read in a buddy's hanes M and i gotta take the distributor and the carb off. i didnt know that

jakerngr
08-23-2006, 09:51 PM
you dont have to take the carb off but you do have to pull the distrbutor

MetalMan
08-23-2006, 09:53 PM
Okay, first off, you don't need to take the carb off. Leave it. Just disconnect the linkages and such and leave it on there. Distributor can stay too. Done this sort of thing far too many times myself...got tired of draining the cooling system, so here's what I do: Pull the t-stat housing off, get a siphoning device of some sort, and siphon until you can get any more out. Don't get all wild and crazy (shaking the car and such) working on it and you'll have little to no coolant mess. Pull the valve covers off, pull the intake off, replace the gaskets, reinstall (I'd recommend you replace the valve cover gaskets too). You'll have to reseal the t-stat housing. Hook everything back up and you're good to go.

MetalMan
08-23-2006, 09:54 PM
Actually, now that I think about it, you will need to pull the distributor...forgot about that, I work on Pontiacs more than Chev.

Kazuki
08-26-2006, 09:36 AM
I just did mine on a 350 tbi. VERY easy.
I made sure the engine was on #1 cylnder TDC(timing mark on the pulley at zero) marked the distributer and rotor position(makes it easy to put back in the same spot), than pulled the dist out.
I disconected the rad hose, throtle linkage, fuel lines, vacume lines, anything else that may be in the way, but I didn't take anything off the manifold... unbolted it and out she came... with a little force.
I didn't remove the valve covers, but I did get the alternator out of the way... make sure you disconnect the battery if you do this.
Clean all gasket sufaces making sure none of the crap drops into the engine...lay a towel in there if you want too than I always use a shop vac to clean everything afterwards.
As long as the gasket sufaces are clean you shouldn't have a leak.
Clean the bolts(rust and crap off) and use some kind of thread lock/sealer to prevent leaks. Tork to specs in the order shown in your buddys book.

Kazuki
08-26-2006, 09:37 AM
Oh ya... I had to change my coolant anyway so I drained it all out.

Chewtoy
08-27-2006, 02:47 PM
1. Make sure you have gasket facing the right way...
2. tap and die the bolts and holes. Sounds simple, but they tend to get gunked and throw off torque readings. Retorque after a bit, you'd be surprised how loose the bolts will get.