PDA

View Full Version : Re-located batteries, and tubbing a K5


1_ton_k5
07-10-2006, 09:27 PM
I finally got sick enough of the factory battery trays breaking that i decided to do something about it. I decided to move both battery's to behind the front seats inset in the floor. While I was cutting sheetmetal I decided to tub it 4" wider on each side. When stuffed the 39.5's used to rub the inside of the wheelwell pretty bad...

Wheeltub removed and hole for new battery box cut.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00827.jpg

New wheeltub tacked in place:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00830.jpg

4" wider, view from rear:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00832.jpg

Battery box with battery trial fit. Battery box is all 11 gauge steel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00833.jpg

Done, except for lids for the batt boxes.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00895.jpg


Drivers side box...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00897.jpg

I used 1 guage fine strand welding cable for the new battery cables. I noticed much faster starting and better cranking speed right away. The other thing i noticed is all the creaking and groaning from my front fenders is gone now. Moving 120+ lbs way farther back and lower is also a big benefit, as is anything that lowers the CoG.

Rene

230
07-10-2006, 09:38 PM
looks purdy.

Big_Ern
07-10-2006, 11:13 PM
nice work :cool:

Taxidermy
07-10-2006, 11:28 PM
wow

m j
07-11-2006, 09:53 AM
looks good Rene

how far from the frame rail did the tubs go??

bakelite
07-11-2006, 09:59 AM
Nice set up, good idea and really nice work. [cheers]

epic3
07-11-2006, 10:07 AM
nicely done dude

1_ton_k5
07-11-2006, 09:41 PM
looks good Rene

how far from the frame rail did the tubs go??

Thanks, the edges of the new tubs are now 3" from the frame...

rene

m j
07-11-2006, 11:08 PM
is that enough to give you the clearance you need?
I know that you were having issues with contact there even years ago when you came by my house in the 'Wack.

expound a bit please, even brag :)

1_ton_k5
07-12-2006, 12:59 AM
LOL...

With the 57" F-150 springs being as soft as they are the old 36" TSL's would kiss the inside of the fenderwells when stuffed. It's been a few years but I recall the rub marks being a couple of inches up from the bottom of the fenderwell.

With the 39.5's this was a lot worse (same lift) and the rub marks were about 8 or 9 inches up the inside of the fenderwell. The last time I 'ramped' the truck with a forklift at work i had 44" under the rear tire, the shock was bottomed (opposite side topped out).

Along with tubbing it 4" I'm also swapping in a set of Alcan's. 2.5" 9 leaf packs for the rear (54" long) combined with the shackle flip will net me 2-3" more lift. The front is getting 6" alcan's, 11 leafs, 49" long. I've ordered 4 of the BBCS 15" shocks as well.

With the 57's I didn't really care much if i negative arched the springs, because they're relatively cheap and easy to find. The alcan's I'll have 'properly' bump-stopped so they never go too negative.

I'm pretty sure the Alcan's will equal or surpass the 57's for articulated travel, but with the tubbing, extra lift and bump stops I don't think it'll rub. I should be OK with 42's down the road.

Suspension wise my current round of head scratching is where to best mount the BBCS shocks. 21" compressed, 36" extended...

I'm pretty sure I'll have to run them up through the floor in the rear and some sort of hoop or extended mount up front. I do want them as vertical as is practical. Inboard is a great crutch for short shocks, but damping isn't great and it seems to accentuate body roll. I do drive this on the street, so even though it may be trivial to some it is important to me.

Did I mention the NV4500/203/205, triple stick, H2 rims? :D I've been collectiing parts for a while now. I just have to survive the next 2-3 months at work and hopefully get some time to bolt all this stuff up.

Was that "expound/brag" enough? :p

Rene

m j
07-12-2006, 07:19 AM
why wouldn't it be?

going bling with H2s?
I can hear Chris Rock now, THEY SPINNIN' NIGGA THEY SPINNIN'

(my widened H1s arrived yesterday)

1_ton_k5
07-12-2006, 07:54 PM
Not aiming for 'bling'. They're cheap and abundant, and will be just fine for street tires. I plan on some 37" AT's on the H2 rims for daily driving or long road trips (Moab for example) then I'll do the weld on beadlocks on my current 15" steelies and run the TSL's on those for wheelin'.

The H2 rims will get me pretty much street legal as far as tires sticking past the body...meaning i won't need to add flares. I'm sure they're also a lot more 'true' than my steel rims too. :rolleyes:

How much wider did you make your H1 rims?

Rene

m j
07-12-2006, 10:35 PM
I didn't widen them.
bought them off of a guy in Utah, can't recall his screennames.
has a truck on 'mogs and a phantom 4 headlight grill. he is an old ck5 member and on p4x4.
I bought the same grill and now his old wheels, I would get the mogs to really copy him if I had a spare $8000
I havent measured them properly yet I think they are 13ish outside to outside, so about 4" widened maybe less

enough on me, where do I find the writeup on your new trans setup? is it installed?

you helped me out the other day, I needed to find the axle tube diameter on a 14ff to buy a holesaw and it turned out to be your post from 2003 that I found it on. 3 3/8ths thanks.
putting a 14ff onelink with a watts link under a 78 bronco (http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a83794/4x4/onelink/) ugly square tube

1_ton_k5
07-13-2006, 07:12 PM
Is that otherwise known as a "graderball" suspension?

There is no write up on the NV4500 or the 203 or the other stuff because I haven't done one. I will prolly snap a metric assload of pic's during the install...

I have some pic's of the 4500 during the rebuild...

Empty case and a few parts. The tranny was a freebie, but a basket case when I got it. it had been run critically low on gear lube. The input bearing got red hot so the inout gear teeth all went soft and folded over. Those took out the corresponding teeth on the countershaft...then the input shaft sheared off. The first two synchro assemblies also saw a fair bit of heat and needed replacing. The NV4500 uses a clutch material on the synchro's and that was melted off.

I had to replace the input shaft, countershaft, 3 synchro's, all bearings and seals, all the small parts and probably a few things i'm forgetting. The good part was the mainshaft was fine, and there was no sign of any 5th gear fretting.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00240.jpg

Finishing up...sorry, I didn't take a big selection of in progress pic's.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00511.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00512.jpg

Test fit the 203 to the finished NV4500.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v220/tRustyK5/DSC00488-1.jpg

The bell is from Advance Adaptors, not as spendy as i thought it was going to be. The 203 range box was completely rebuilt by NorthWestFab, they also redrilled the face of the 203. Also you can see their "Dual t-case kit" hanging off the back of the 203 range box.

Dan Foss is scheduled to show up at my work tomorrow morning with my new 205, also from Northwest Fab. Rebuilt, bored for the larger 32 spline input, 32 spline front output, rails ground for twin stick, billet aluminum bearing retainers, and 1410 yokes front and rear. Also in tomorrow's box is the triple stick shifters.

So, my crawl ratio will be 100.78:1 and my cruise rpm on the freeway will be ~1900 rpm. Big improvement at both ends of the scale.

Rene

1_ton_k5
07-13-2006, 07:14 PM
I didn't widen them.
bought them off of a guy in Utah, can't recall his screennames.
has a truck on 'mogs and a phantom 4 headlight grill. he is an old ck5 member and on p4x4.
I bought the same grill and now his old wheels, I would get the mogs to really copy him if I had a spare $8000
I havent measured them properly yet I think they are 13ish outside to outside, so about 4" widened maybe less

enough on me, where do I find the writeup on your new trans setup? is it installed?

you helped me out the other day, I needed to find the axle tube diameter on a 14ff to buy a holesaw and it turned out to be your post from 2003 that I found it on. 3 3/8ths thanks.
putting a 14ff onelink with a watts link under a 78 bronco (http://www3.telus.net/public/a7a83794/4x4/onelink/) ugly square tube

Hmmm, didn't he also recently have a built 6.2 with ATS turbo that he sold from that truck? From Utah or somewhere near? His user name escapes me at the moment, if i'm thinking of the same person.

Rene

m j
07-13-2006, 08:14 PM
wow you have grown LAZY!
paying Kyle to rebuild your cases!

if you use the graderball it can be called a graderball. (priced at Finning around $300)
it is the suspension that HenryFord used for about 40 years, comes stock on Unimogs.
torquetube, but in my case with an external driveshaft

m j
07-13-2006, 08:21 PM
that rubber damper is HUGE (assuming that is what is hanging off the ass of your trans)

1_ton_k5
07-13-2006, 09:02 PM
Hey, I did the tranny myself which was enough fun working in a cramped storage room. I lack time and a 'good' place to do a lot of this stuff. I'd say I was being pragmatic, not lazy. :p

Just imagine my 6 year old daughters reaction to the smell of old gear lube...my 'shop' is through a door from her bedroom (you might have noticed the manly pink carpeting in the pic's)

So, one triangulated link with panhard bar I assume? Looks cool, even if the idea is as old as you say it is.

Regarding the balancer on the tranny, it is huge. This particular tranny was bought aftermarket over the counter from GM, but was a '95 diesel 4WD variation. I wasn't even thinking of running a diesel when i first got that, but by the time i got around to building it lo and behold there is a 6.2 in my truck. I'm not 100% certain why a tranny needs a vibration damper, I just re-installed it because I couldn't see an easy way of eliminating it.

Rene

m j
07-13-2006, 09:42 PM
I actually like the smell of gear lube. old is ok, new is nicer.

I am trying to make a watts link mounted horizontally above the axle.
the one drawback of a single link is that with a panhard it rear steers.

1_ton_k5
07-13-2006, 10:12 PM
Some people pay good money for rear steer...[15]

Seriously though, I'm having trouble trying to visualize the second Watt's link.

Any reason you're not going with a 4 link instead? What is the plan regarding coils and shocks? Are we gonna see some bling King's?

Rene

Big_Ern
07-13-2006, 10:17 PM
I'd like some more info on the watt's link as well. I always assumed they were mostly for sports cars etc...My rx7 uses a 4link with watts link

m j
07-13-2006, 10:42 PM
I'd like some more info on the watt's link as well. I always assumed they were mostly for sports cars etc...My rx7 uses a 4link with watts link

the tan one in silverdale?

I am attempting a beefy watts.
the frame mounted pivot is a trailer spindle and hub from princess, mounted centrally above the axle.
not much to say as it isnt built yet.
this is more or less a trial run, using cheapo radius arm bushings and tested on a daily driver, before the real deal with the Cat grader parts.
the spare rolling chassis makes it pretty easy to mock up, that and we aren't trying for pretty :)
for this time around the springs will be ford or Heep that we have onhand or cheap JBG lift springs.
anyway this was Rene's thread so i will STFU about my junk and make a thread in the Ford section when there is more/something to show (and again in the Chev section when I stuff one under the bowtie).

your driveline is looking PIMP, Rene. I am jealous.

1_ton_k5
07-13-2006, 11:11 PM
I don't mind the hi-jack Michael...

your driveline is looking PIMP, Rene. I am jealous.

Thanks, it's taken me a long time to get all of this together. I am really looking forward to getting it all swapped in. I had two weeks booked off at the beginning of August to do exactly that, but I just found out I'm getting sent to Wichita KS for 3-4 weeks instead. [27] [27]

I really hope I can get enough time off to do this swap without having to rush through it when i get back.

Rene

Big_Ern
07-13-2006, 11:17 PM
the tan one in silverdale?

....


no, just a bone stock white one in langley. the 1st gen's came stock with a watts 4 link. damn thing is too low to get underneath and take a good look at how the watts link works.

But I'm gonna have to cause I broke both lower links right in half yesterday[27] [27] Didn't thinking I'd be linking my car before my truck...:rolleyes:

nykoma
07-14-2006, 05:35 AM
great work there guy[cheers]