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stuckle
07-05-2006, 08:21 PM
I need 4 es 2010 tie rod ends. They came in a 1992 Dodge 1 ton with a cummins and d60 in the front. They are the tie rod ends i need for my draglink and tierod. Does anyone think they can get me a quote on 4 of them? i need 2 es2010 L's and 2 es2010 R's (left and right). I got quoted 75 bucks per end from my buddie at lordco, and i thought that was a bit pricey

thanks guys[cheers]

barracuda
07-05-2006, 08:23 PM
price out Vancouver auto parts.

sj-x 500
07-05-2006, 08:29 PM
sounds about right actually

stuckle
07-05-2006, 08:30 PM
sounds about right actually

shut up[f]


haha[16]

thats expensive... especialy when im broke[27]

sj-x 500
07-05-2006, 08:35 PM
try owning a dodge that came from alberta. calipers were 180 a peice and rotors and pads for the back was 305 at cost.

stuckle
07-05-2006, 08:37 PM
whoa


i paid 18 bucks a peice for my calipers[9]

sj-x 500
07-05-2006, 08:44 PM
yea 1/2 ton shit though.

dana 70 rear on discs for me.

westcoaster
07-05-2006, 08:50 PM
Try $510 for a drivers side mirror assembly (flip up trailer tow heated power) I think I'll move the gate post so I don't back into it again....

stuckle
07-05-2006, 08:53 PM
yea 1/2 ton shit though.

dana 70 rear on discs for me.

wrong


3/4 ton

Poopy
07-05-2006, 09:03 PM
I paid $80 each at lordco...

sj-x 500
07-05-2006, 09:22 PM
it's still a dana 44, don't care if it is a big hub or not, it's still a dana 44.

stuckle
07-05-2006, 09:22 PM
and 14 bolt[f]

its disks too

In The Zone
07-05-2006, 11:20 PM
yup bout right thats what i paid got 4 Ford ones new attached to drag link and tie rod no kms 1 tonne shit going on the d60

buck up it aint so bad you might as well buy 5 so u got a spare for the trail

m j
07-06-2006, 12:11 AM
why would you run a TRE on the draglink?
you get way more travel from a DLE like an es2026 and es2027 combo
rethink the draglink
the tierod doesnt need the extra range of motion

In The Zone
07-06-2006, 06:54 AM
if i check my part #'S mine are es somthing i wil dig ou the records...

stuckle
07-06-2006, 09:43 PM
i ended up getting the dodge tre's from napa for 61 and 54, and then used chevy drag link ends for the draglink, at they are 34 bucks a peice


thats what ott said to use and they worked great[cheers]

In The Zone
07-06-2006, 09:46 PM
pics.......

stuckle
07-06-2006, 09:48 PM
ill get u some tomorow

like i said in the other thread im gona have to get a new pitman arm i belive, because my draglink and tie rod are going to smash if i compress my driver side front tire... probably has something to do with the fact my pitman arm is like a 5 inch drop[9]


that means no bump steer, but i have to find the happy medium where they dont touch in compression


all the little shit that comes about when you build a custom truck.....

In The Zone
07-06-2006, 09:50 PM
u will still need a track bar u are using one right?

stuckle
07-06-2006, 09:51 PM
why will i need one?


my drag link is almost flat at ride height... there will be no bump steer... no need for a track bar
youll see tomorow

unless you mean trac bar for axel wrap in the rear... in that case yah im doin it:D

stuckle
07-06-2006, 09:53 PM
i need a pitman arm that looks like yours

In The Zone
07-06-2006, 10:04 PM
no to centre your diff within your frame to prevent death wobble......

the alignment of this should match the arc and angle of your draglink

ideally but not always possible.

m j
07-07-2006, 05:56 AM
why will i need one?


my drag link is almost flat at ride height... there will be no bump steer... no need for a track bar
youll see tomorow

unless you mean trac bar for axel wrap in the rear... in that case yah im doin it:D

the angle of your draglink has some influence on bumpsteer but you are sadly mistaken to believe it means you will have "no bumpsteer".
as the suspension travels the effective length of the draglink on a truck with a 'flat' draglink becomes shorter on both compresion and rebound.
what that means is it will steer you towards oncoming when it compressed and when it extends.
that is all a flat draglink angle gets you.

StinkFinger
07-07-2006, 09:12 AM
Not true the flater the drag link the less your chage of length (position) is during the compresion and extension thus providing a small "newtral" zone where this efect is minimal and almost un noticable the steeper the angle the more this efect can be felt

lets take a 36" drag link if its flat and cycles threw 4" of suspension travel its change in position is 0.055" thats less than a 16th of an inch

now that same drag linlk threw the same distance of travel at a 10degree inclination will have a change of position of 0.707" almost 3/4 of an inch

wich do you think will be more noticable

StinkFinger
07-07-2006, 09:46 AM
oh and a note a flat draglink will have to cycle threw 14.194" of travel to achive the same change or 7.097" in either direction

sj-x 500
07-07-2006, 10:21 AM
someone likes math.

but yea... my suzuki has massive leafs and a big ol/ spoa in the front, and it needs a track bar badly. you can actually get the frame to move side to side by shaking the wheel.

StinkFinger
07-07-2006, 10:22 AM
some one has cad [32]

In The Zone
07-07-2006, 10:41 AM
makes short work of things eh..... rub it in

StinkFinger
07-07-2006, 10:56 AM
roger that loveit for figuring out truck stuff

barracuda
07-07-2006, 11:13 AM
dang for a while there i thought you had gotten smartified [f]
I dont have a cad program so i still have to do it old school manually :rolleyes:

StinkFinger
07-07-2006, 11:15 AM
really it just cause im lasy its pretty basic trig and i could of done it as fast maualy but then i'd have to think and i try to avoid that when im at work

stuckle
07-07-2006, 05:30 PM
k heres the pics...

what should i do.....

19427
Straight

19428
Left Turn


19429
Right Turn


19430
Right Turn


19431
Straight


19432
Left Turn

And the Pictures dont show how close it is. On a Left turn that grease nipple is 3/4 on a inch from the tie rod... straight and right turn its 2 inchs away


and it looks like i missed some spots with the paint[9] hard to see until you have light from the camera

stuckle
07-07-2006, 05:43 PM
could i not run the draglink behind the tie rod.. and then get a longer pitman arm and trim the tops of those u bolts so it clears? does that make sence?

m j
07-07-2006, 06:43 PM
you have to move the box or the axle or move the tierod behind the knuckles

stuckle
07-07-2006, 07:30 PM
i ment to the rear of the 2 holes in the one arm. That wont work because it would make me turn more 1 way than the other.

I am going to find a ford 1 ton van pitman arm

heres a pic...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/christopher_2/IMG_0806.jpg

it will make me hit the knuckle stops before the steering box stops because it is longer than the jeep one iv got... and will hopefully lift the draglink enough so i dont have the clearance problems

anyone have a 1 ton van with that arm i can score for cheep? or something that will work that looks like it? I will have to ream the dle hole out but thats easy...