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ray6718
05-30-2006, 05:39 AM
hey guys thought you might be able to help I have a 1985 toyota extra cab with 7 inches of lift running 5/29 gears and 36/13.5 x 15 boggers I am trying to figure out how to do away with that stupid load porportioning valve that is in the rear of the toyota pickups if anyone has a thought about it please help
thanks
Ray

slacker
05-30-2006, 07:41 AM
rear discs ... or a transfer brake ....

StinkFinger
05-30-2006, 10:32 AM
just remove it and use a willwood manual type preportioning valve

bakelite
05-30-2006, 11:52 AM
Like these ones?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Wilwood-Knob-Type-Brake-Proportioning-Valve-NEW_W0QQitemZ8025990909QQcategoryZ33566QQcmdZViewI tem


or will the Summit ones..1/8 npt thread..work? got part number?[cheers]

StinkFinger
05-30-2006, 12:17 PM
thats the exact one i have
60 bux kms:D

bakelite
05-30-2006, 12:41 PM
Cool...thanks [cheers]

slacker
05-30-2006, 03:56 PM
duhhh ... did I read that wrong ...

sorry bud ... I though I read emergency brake leavers ... must have still had sleep in my eyes .

arjan
05-30-2006, 04:07 PM
Easy fix is to disconnect it from the axle and tie it to the bottem of the truck. I know it works for the 4Runners. If you're rear starts locking up keep on end tied and curve the middle down so the valve closes a bit.

Big_Ern
05-30-2006, 04:12 PM
[stupid]

the stock valve works just fine if you adjust it right.

I did the same thing on my old 4runner

lizard
05-30-2006, 05:25 PM
keep on end tied and curve the middle down


HUH???

Big_Ern
05-30-2006, 05:27 PM
disconnect it from the axle and tie that end up to the frame. You can either bend the rod or tie it lower down to get the right angle on it for the desired rear braking force. Same as turning the knob on a willwood style valve

crazy j
05-30-2006, 05:58 PM
just try removing it completely! alot of times the thing is rusted and siezed and moving the rod wont do shit.
bolt a bracket to the frame with one of the old holes and the steel hard line threads directly to the rubber line. give it a try, if the drums are to grabby, get the prop. valve.
i run fine without it on 35's and a late model brakes. i find the rear will lock up first on a hard stop on dry pavement (prolly due to the massive nose dive), not easy enough to be a problem, but it seems ideal for off road.

Static
05-30-2006, 07:14 PM
I just tooke the LSPV right out, plugged the t on the front break circuit where the line returns from the LSPV, and ran the rear circuit full power. With my 36's and brake shoes of unknown age I have no problem with locking the rears first. If you have the 85 axle it will be the small drums anyway, so even less chance that they will lock up.

arjan
05-30-2006, 07:43 PM
Thanks for the clarification Ern, it sounds totally logical if you've played with it, but I can imagine it's confusing if you're not all that familiar on the subject.

The 3rd gen 4Runners with abs don't have one anymore (like mine), the abs system is supposed to take care of it.
Too bad, I liked the option of sending more brake force to the rear.

ri0
05-30-2006, 10:38 PM
yeah I took mine right out as well...brakes work fine

ray6718
05-31-2006, 05:22 AM
thanks for all the input guys it will be a great help
Ray

mijinkal
05-31-2006, 01:48 PM
All I did was cut the rod in half and weld in a 4" piece. works great, and It'll pass the VI.

G-rizzle Swank
06-01-2006, 04:34 PM
when did they make 36" boggers?