PDA

View Full Version : 1989 Jeep Cherokee


MetalMan
05-08-2006, 08:52 PM
It's got a 4L and it's stick, what does it have for drivetrain and what size tires will it run?

kootenaycat
05-09-2006, 12:29 AM
Should have 3.08's and will suck ass with anything over 235's! My '90 had 205's on it when I bought it, 355,000km, and it was a dog going over the pass' around here even in 4th! Going with 4.10's and 31's, should be about the same until I rebuild a motor for it.

Nutbar
05-09-2006, 01:02 AM
4.0L 5spds are normally 3.07 gears unless ordered with optional ratios (3.55 or 4.10) will have a dana 30 frt dif and probably a dana 35 rear ( oval shaped dif cover) some with towing package had dana 44 rear (kinda squished stop sign shape cover)

the little Cherokees stock can fit up to a 30X9.50 tire on it (slightly larger than a 235/75)

Smurf131
05-09-2006, 11:22 AM
ya 30X9.5 fit mint on my chero with no rubbing.
if you phone the dealership and give em your vin code they should b able to tell you exactly what u got.

MetalMan
05-09-2006, 08:07 PM
Ah I see...I'm just looking at one for fairly cheap. So I guess 35's are out of the question eh...

redman
05-09-2006, 08:19 PM
Ah I see...I'm just looking at one for fairly cheap. So I guess 35's are out of the question eh...

no no 8 inch lift then you can run em

MetalMan
05-09-2006, 08:29 PM
Wouldn't 35's on D30's be like holding barbells with a twig? I've never dabbled with Jeeps at all, so I dunno...but I know D44's don't like anything bigger than 35's. I could do a lift fairly easy, I'm guessing it's going to be coil front and spring under rear? Are there are any wrecker scores for the coils?

Nutbar
05-09-2006, 09:46 PM
It's coil frt and spring over rear in the Cherokees and spring under in the Comanchees

and no don't put any thing bigger than a 31 on the stock diffs if you want to wheel at all anything bigger than that and you will start to break shit.

MetalMan
05-09-2006, 09:53 PM
Hm that's what I was thinking. Are there any cheap bolt in upgrades for those diffs, or is it the usual hassle to swap to something decent?

Nutbar
05-09-2006, 09:58 PM
There is a few upgrade parts for the stock 30 and 35 but imho they aren't worth buying (kinda like puttin a bandaid on a bullet wound) Wagoneer Dana 44s are the right width to put under those things (80 and newer for the correct side frt pumpkin)

DirtyComanche
05-09-2006, 10:19 PM
You're looking at an 89 4L 5spd? Fun.


The tranny is either an Asin AX-15 (strong) or a peugeot BA10/5 (so horribly crappy weak that looking at it the wrong way can cause massive carnage). Mid-89 was the changeover. At least check which one it is. Or drive it; if it whines horribly it's a peugeot.

I don't think the D44 rear was offered as a rear in 89, pretty sure that was only 87 and 88.

The non-c-clip D35 is actually less crappy than a normal D35. But it will still break. Easily. Conveniently ford 8.8s fit pretty easy.

And you can get a super 30 kit, but as Nutbar said, it's a band-aid. My band-aid for now is going to be a lot of spare axleshafts...

Oh, Nutbar, spell Comanche right, eh?

MetalMan
05-09-2006, 10:24 PM
So how hard is it to find 44's to put under these things, and how much do they usually go for? I like wheeling for cheap...my Dodge was perfect evidence of that...I don't mind swapping diffs, though I'd rather stay away from shock and leaf mount mods.

DirtyComanche
05-09-2006, 10:41 PM
Waggy D44 from pick'n'pull, $150 tax in? I think. Forget their prices. They had like 10+ the last time I was there.


A completely bolt in XJ D44 rear, oh, you ain't gonna find one of those... Well, you might. But they'll probably want a lot for it. And older exploder 8.8 (drum brake) could be had from pick'n'pull for the same price as the front. Or ask around, somebody might be ditching one. The newer disk brake ones are a lot harder to find, and thus more pricey.


You could also potentially use a waggy D44 rear, then the bolt pattern would match the front. Some of them got them. If you wanted a waggy for the cheap to strip both from (I check) ask the Kal Tire in Coldstream. There's one that'd been sitting there for a LONG time.


Oh, waggys only got 3.23ish gears. Ugly.


Edit, you're from abby, nevermind. But they're easy to find.

MetalMan
05-09-2006, 11:42 PM
So what's the deal with the Ford rear? It's not a bolt-in deal is it? I guess there's basically nothing I can just bolt in? How do I tell one tranny from the other?

Nutbar
05-10-2006, 12:38 AM
The only bolt in rear end will be the Dana 44 rear 87 - 89 4.0 XJ with heavy duty towing package harder to find but not impossible. The exlpoder 8.8 is another viable swap requires some welding for spring pads and shock mts but the 8.8 is 1.5 in narrower than the factory diff so you have to be careful with tire size and rim offset or you get into tire rub situation with the inner fenderwells

to tell the trannys apart, on the Puegeot tranny (which aren't as bad as Dirty makes them out to be if maintained properly just expensive to overhaul) the main case splits open frt to back down the middle, the AX/15 (Toyota tranny) has the bell housing a frt case and a rear case with a bearing support plate in between the frt and rear cases

Matt
05-10-2006, 07:19 AM
[stupid] 395,000 km on my peugot before going auto. still sold it for 750 afterward. try to get that out of an ax15 without 2 or 3 rebuilds. still not saying it,s a strong tranny but they really are not that bad.

DirtyComanche
05-10-2006, 11:31 AM
Funny, my truck has been through two Peugeots. And this one is going south fast.


Meh.

fourplay
05-10-2006, 05:37 PM
Hm that's what I was thinking. Are there any cheap bolt in upgrades for those diffs, or is it the usual hassle to swap to something decent?

Chillwack Pic a part has 2 rows of rokees, I picked up a rear d44 last week drum to drum for 100 bux (brakes fairly new as well[36] ). If you find a pressure bottle, grab it evwen if yours is good, lol.. Also look for an auxillary fan, they came stock in the rokees with factory A/C and factory towing packages. They are prone to overheating. (gotta ask mike what my options are for my front diff, lol) Im goin for a driver seat tommorrow, I'll let ya know if theres any d44's there.

[cheers]

MetalMan
05-10-2006, 09:27 PM
Sweet, I'm still waiting to find out more about this Cherokee, guy's out in Squamish so it's a bit of a drive...I'm used to fullsize, and I like big tires, so I'm still debating this one.

DirtyComanche
05-10-2006, 10:10 PM
They can be a bitch to work on if you're used to a fullsize. Pop the hood and it's like "Woah, there's about as much space in here as a yugo."

MetalMan
05-10-2006, 11:39 PM
Haha Yugo that's awesome...well, I'm more or less open to anything that that has 4x4 and costs $500. I kind of want to be able to run at least 35's though...since this would have a shorter wheelbase, 35's on this would be like at least 38's on an average fullsize for actual clearing shit on the trail...I'll see. I might spring for it if it has a 44 in the back. Otherwise I'll just keep hunting...I like more conventional Jeeps (YJ, CJ, you know what I'm talking about) but the lack of strong diffs has always kept me away from them. Sounds like this is basically the same...

DirtyComanche
05-11-2006, 10:30 AM
Yeah, but cheaper, so you don't have to feel as bad about blowing cash on axle swaps right off the get go.

MetalMan
05-12-2006, 06:08 PM
Okay, so maybe I can downscale a little...more questions, of course! Would D30's be able to handle decent 33's? And would the short-ish wheelbase help make up for the small tires, or would it be a better idea to just upgrade and run 35's?

DirtyComanche
05-12-2006, 07:40 PM
I think a HPD30 will hold 33s, but that's the outer limit of sensible. It's going to depend on wheeling style... And if you weld the sucker.


You can always try it. If anything it going to break, it'll be the ujoints. Carry a couple spare shafts...


Oh, and an XJ ain't no fullsize. They can do alright with the smaller tires... Still, I don't know what your idea of fun is.

MetalMan
05-12-2006, 07:51 PM
Heh my idea of fun is pedal to the metal and hope I bounce off things...but I can always change that. I've never done trails much, and for good reason, my Dodge was definetely not set up for that. I got a bit bored with mud, I'd like to do some exploring. I'm not so hung up on getting through huge ruts as I used to be, with decent 33's I think I could be happy, at least on the trails.

DirtyComanche
05-12-2006, 07:57 PM
I'd say give it a shot. You can junkyard together a super-cheap lift (I'm not about to say it'll be the best) and trim some sheetmetal to get 33's to clear. Worst that'll happen is it'll break constantly and you'll have to sell it to some stupid highschool kid.

MetalMan
05-12-2006, 07:59 PM
Haha okay well I have a bunch of leafs kicking around that I was going to use to lift my Dodge, one set is in pieces and I could use them as add-a-leafs, are the widths fairly similiar? Could I get away with it? And what would be an easy way to lift the front, I noticed there isn't really a perch that I could cut, space, and weld. Are there some significantly longer springs from a different vehicle that I could score at the wrecker?

DirtyComanche
05-12-2006, 08:18 PM
What's the width of the Dodge leafs? I think they'd be the same, XJ ones are 2.5 wide IIRC. I know S-10/Dakota/Comanche (all SUA) leafs work well as donors. Do me a favour and don't use Comanche ones, they're hard to find... You just want a leaf that's the same width with more static arch. You'll also want to use fullsize shackles as the XJ have these little short things.


For front springs the 'common' method is to get a coil spacer and some V8 Grand Cherokee coils. The V8 coils give about an inch. However, I think that's pretty useless. The later generation (80s to early 90s) V6 ford thunderbird used a variable rate coil spring that will give 4"~ of lift. It is slightly larger in diameter at the top, so it'll knock around a bit unless you weld some pipe over the old coil tower. You have to be careful that you get the right ones though, as the V8 ones are shorter but way stiffer... You can also stack a few extra stock coil isolators (stick 'em in your pockets at pick'n'pull); they give maybe 1/4" each. And the last front coil spring trick that I remember is to use F250 coils. Stiff as f', but they fit nicely and give 4"~.

For brake lines you will need YJ lines, as they are quite a bit longer. And you'll have to drop the mounting brackets as low as possible. For shocks you'll have to actually buy them, sadly. The track bar bracket will have to be redrilled to recenter the axle. Really easy to do. You might not get it bang on though, but that's not a huge deal.

The only remaining issue (that I can think of right now) is that the LCAs will be about 3/4" too short for ideal caster. They can be shimmed out maybe 1/2" but that's pushing it.


But it's a budget lift. Wheel it like that and if you don't like the XJ thing you haven't wasted much $$$.

MetalMan
05-12-2006, 08:27 PM
Hm sounds interesting...I've seen coil spring spacers at the parts store, what's your take on that? Dangerous to use, or perfect for a budget lift? I'd want to try for 6-8".

DirtyComanche
05-12-2006, 08:34 PM
Spacers are no big deal as long as you aren't going over say 2".... Personally, I figure that if you are actually going to buy new spacers you might as well save up for coils of the right height. They aren't expensive.


Now, if you're shooting for 6-8" of lift, things start to get ugly. You'll basically have to decide if you wish to keep any of the stock front suspension or not. You can get a short arm lift for that height, but it will ride like piss and generally be a waste of money. It's that or long arms or front leafs. Front leafs are the cheaper route at that point, maybe. However, if you can weld and want to spend some time it's very easy to build a radius arms setup. (this is coming from a person who only built part of their's though)


I've got 8" and it clears 35s with plenty... I've got long arms too, and they are rather flexy. You don't need even 6" for 33s if you trim well. If you keep things at the 4.5" area it's a lot easier as most of the stock components can be reused.

MetalMan
05-12-2006, 08:36 PM
Hmmmm well I'm going to try and get it, and see how it works out. It can't be much worse than any of the other junkers I've had to wheel with. Thanks for the advice, and if I do get my paws on it I'll be back for more!

DirtyComanche
05-12-2006, 08:40 PM
No problem, I've got to post whore myself up to the 50 mark so I can start selling my junk.

Matt
05-13-2006, 07:25 AM
sounds like too much work :confused:
wouldn't a proper lift be easier and oh yea engineered properly?
not to mention the dmv doesn't really like to see home made lifts.

MetalMan
05-13-2006, 10:24 AM
I'm not worried about the DMV, I got away with plenty on my Dodge anyways. My 4x4's are never insured, they're weekend permit princesses, and they only see the street in order to get to and off-roading spot...so they'll have to be pretty on-the-ball to get me. Not to mention, a Cherokee with 33's isn't going to be all that big...the cops in Abby are pretty decent about jacked up 4x4's, and if it doesn't have at least 38" tires they'll normally leave it alone.

As for too much work, I work on construction...so I have to work pretty hard to come up with the extra one or two grand for a "proper" lift. It's much much easier to redneck things together for very little money! If it's not dangerous, why not?

fourplay
05-14-2006, 03:05 PM
I have a 6" lift in mine, and handles 33's x 10.5 no problems and no rubbing, with the offset rims of course. Have f-150 front coils tho, was goin to go softer (windstar coils, same lift height, but smaller coil, more flex), but decided on stronger is better, especially once i get that winch bumper and winch mounted. They're actually allota fun to wheel in.

MetalMan
05-14-2006, 09:04 PM
Sounds good, waiting for the guy to get me pics now...[10]