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View Full Version : Building a new JeepóDiff set up


Honky
03-01-2006, 11:44 AM
The quick over view

TJ frame with a 5.5 Rubicon suspension on a YJ tub and CJ front clip

Iím buying the parts for the truck over time and with luck I hope to have it ready for assembling by late this year


Diffís

Not sure what Iím going with yet for the rear. Right now Iím looking at use a 8.8 with Detroit locker and disk brakes

For the front Iím looking at a Ford high pinion 9Ē

I phoned Currie and this is the price I got


http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/images/product//CURRIE/CE0001.JPG

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/images/product//currie/ce0131.jpg

Ford 9Ē high pinion
35 spline Alloy axles and CTM u-joints
ARB locker with 4:10 gears
44 outters
Brackets welded on and set up for the Rubicon 5.5 long arm kit

$3945.40 usd


They said there is a $500 rebate if I send them the brackets from a dana 30???

They need to know stud size, what yoke Iím going to use, what off set and if the lift kit uses stock perches.

This does not come with brakes and steering knuckles.


A bit if a sticker shock but Iíve been told to build it to this spec locally would be around the same price.

Jeepnut
03-01-2006, 12:22 PM
[blah] [blah] [blah] [blah] [blah]


What ever yo...wont believe it till you buy your first part for it yo

Milkman
03-01-2006, 04:07 PM
Just give me the lift kit please.

Big_Ern
03-01-2006, 04:31 PM
You'd think they would give you a stronger housing for that price.

something like one of these
5206

http://www.diamondaxle.com/front_steering.htm


I'd tell ya to build a stronger toy diff for half the price, but I know you won't listen[f]

Honky
03-01-2006, 04:33 PM
[!] Toy parts

[!] [!] Zuki parts



so i'll put ford parts in my Jeep [49]

lizard
03-01-2006, 06:33 PM
sucker for punishment arnt yah?

Explorer guy418
03-01-2006, 06:53 PM
sweet a jeep build keep me updated:D

HEAVY METAL
03-01-2006, 06:57 PM
done yet?

epic3
03-02-2006, 04:24 AM
cool can't wait to see some progress Kev
























Thats as posative as I'm gonna get

B
03-02-2006, 06:03 AM
if it where me id take a good look at the diffs nutbars ruinng weight vs clearance and price ... unless your selling the kids and going bugetless.....gooder luck dude we all want u to end up with somthin cool and im sure u willl ... just figure out ur buget then double it.... u might get close .......[5][5][5][5][5] its a about the details

pumpkin
03-02-2006, 07:49 AM
Would'nt a hp 44 be as good? and half the price.

nykoma
03-02-2006, 08:02 AM
holy sit ern is that diff bullet proff to ....[15] [15] [cheers]

Jeepnut
03-02-2006, 09:51 AM
done yet?


He is all talk[blah] [blah] [blah] he has been talking like this for two years now. When he buys his first part and after I picking myself up off the floor in disbelief I just might start thinking he is for real this time[f]

Honky
03-02-2006, 10:11 AM
Oh Iím real. It takes a lot of cash and planning to do this the way that is best suited how Iím going to use it. Iíve been reading and asking a lot of questions to people that know a hell of a lot more then me and I think I have come up with a set up that will work for what I want to do with the Jeep.

This build will also be something that no one else has doneÖ.That I know of


I still have a TON of questions and itís great to have local experts with the like of Nutbar, Godzuka, CJmike and Matt [36]

Jeepnut
03-02-2006, 10:14 AM
[15] [15] [15] [15] [15]

UU
03-02-2006, 10:19 AM
Aawwhhh

Brotherly love.

It's so cute.

Jeepnut
03-02-2006, 10:19 AM
Hey Kev have you ask your wife if you could do this yet?????[49]

Honky
03-02-2006, 10:23 AM
I canít let you win. You have FAR to many toys. I Need to build something to kick your ass with.

I have little brother syndrome and Iím going to use it! [22]

Jeepnut
03-02-2006, 10:31 AM
If you do Iam gunna tell mom......[1]






:cool:

Honky
03-02-2006, 10:42 AM
Thatís it a kick in the junk to my big brother [kicknuts] [34]

u2slow
03-02-2006, 10:47 AM
Ford 9Ē high pinion
35 spline Alloy axles and CTM u-joints
44 outters
$3945.40 usd




That's a HP8.8" just so you know... It doesn't have the large tooth contact, 3rd pinion bearing, and pinion offset you see on on a 9" or Hi9.

IMO you have a shaft/u-joint imbalance. Consider getting the 60 outers or save yourself a ton of $$$$ and 'roll your own' HP44.

You do know how easy it is to narrow a front axle, don't you? [32]

http://u2slow.gotdns.org:81/axle/dana44/d44/Photo150.jpg

http://u2slow.gotdns.org:81/axle/dana44/d44/Photo154.jpg

Honky
03-02-2006, 11:56 AM
Yes they use 8.8 gears and a 9í housing but this is going to be as tough as I need and what people are telling me all said and done the cost to have it made locally will be close to ordering from Currie.



When I phoned them I also asked how there lift compares to the Rubicon 5.5 and they said their Johnny Joint suspension system w/ J-arm front and rear lower control arms - triangulated rear suspension kits work better have more travel and makes the jeep have a lower center of gravity. Iím sure they are bias but Iíll do some research on this.

Jeepnut
03-02-2006, 12:00 PM
Got any pics or have you bought anything yet?????

Nutbar
03-02-2006, 12:52 PM
The rubicon long arm is a triangulated 4 link rear and radius arm set for the frt very similar to what is in Johns jeep without the coilovers it works really well and is less expensive than the Currie crap and the Rubicon joints are pretty much the same thing as the Johnny joints.

Squishy
03-02-2006, 08:36 PM
damn that 35 spline HP 4340'd front end will be pure sex, aaron, ur just jealous, got high pinion? damn kev cant to see it

Big_Ern
03-02-2006, 08:48 PM
no, not jealous at all. I'd take Birf's over u-joints anyday.

Well, ok, maybe jealous of the $$$ he's got to spend on a front axle. -- I know I could build a stronger toy axle if I had the same budget.

The toy version of the housing I posted, 30 spline 4340/300M birfs, 4340 axles, custom 6 stud knuckles & highsteer arms, landcruiser HP e-locker 3rd, cryo'd pinion & ring gear, arp hub studs.
All that and I would be at the price of kev's diff and he still needs to buy steering, hubs, etc.

Squishy
03-02-2006, 08:55 PM
no, not jealous at all. I'd take Birf's over u-joints anyday.

Well, ok, maybe jealous of the $$$ he's got to spend on a front axle. -- I know I could build a stronger toy axle if I had the same budget.

The toy version of the housing I posted, 30 spline 4340/300M birfs, 4340 axles, custom 6 stud knuckles & highsteer arms, landcruiser HP e-locker 3rd, cryo'd pinion & ring gear, arp hub studs.
All that and I would be at the price of kev's diff and he still needs to buy steering, hubs, etc.

yeah but your still 30 spline, got massive strength? im not saying your setup wouldnt be sweet, just pokin fun as usual, but 35 spline 4340 would handle a lot more than 30spline 4340. and ctm's are warrantyd for life, i cant ever see kev breaking that front end, but the jeep will fall apart around the axles[15] [f]

Big_Ern
03-02-2006, 09:03 PM
the birfs are warrentied for life as well.


as for the 30 vs 35 spline axles... I have seen video of both yukon 35 spline 4340 & CTMs vs longfields 30 spline 4340 axles & birfs being tested on bobby's axle breaking machine, and guess which broke first??? The d44 axles broke well before the toy stuff. When Pirate comes back up I'll see if I can dig up the article & specs for ya.


but i do agree, kev's not gonna break either axle before the rest of the jeep breaks[9]

Squishy
03-02-2006, 09:08 PM
where did the axle break? and id bet at that much torque, the hubs or ring gear is going to fail before the axle/ujoints will, so basically at that point its just for bragging rights, real world destructive tests are much more effective imo.

all bs'ing aside, we could go on forever which is a better axle, but in reality, whos IS stronger(whos got the most cash to sink into it basically) i think kev or mikey wins at this point(well mike so far but when kevs done it should be even id think, id be suprised/impressed when one of them breaks a 35 spline axle)

Big_Ern
03-02-2006, 09:14 PM
I can't remember for sure, but I think it broke at the ears. The CTM was still okay. altho it might have been the shaft itself, but I really can't remember. The toy axle broke the short side shaft & the birf was still okay.

and ya, I agree about the hub or ring gear being the next weak link. Thats why i mentioned cryo'd R&P and hub stud upgrade in the axle I would build.


but like you say, it all boils down to the $$$$

Squishy
03-02-2006, 09:18 PM
if only i didnt have a mustang.... maybe mog 404's with 9" 3rd??? hell id be happy with it running even!

Nutbar
03-03-2006, 11:12 AM
Without the E locker I have less than $2000 into building my high pinion 60 frt I wheeled and dealed traded and scoured for parts and put it together myself but have been out many times since the install without a glitch where with the 44 frt I would get not even a full day at Stave or about 4 trips on the trail before I would grenade an axle and ujoint.
The 14 bolt rear cost me a grand total of about $500 to build and install

Honky
03-03-2006, 11:57 AM
Looks like Iím going to go with the Rubicon 5.5 ď3 LINK long arm kitĒ.
From what I hear it is a superior set up and works better on the trail then the 4 link.


For the rear I can get a FREE 8.8 with disk breaks. Well this was a wheel and deal but no money exchange. Comes in handy that Ann works at a wrecker

The cost I figured for the rear:

8.8 Diff with disk brakes $ 00.00
Gears $300
Locker $700
Axles $500
bearings 200-300
brakes and misc 200

$2,000

A waggy 44 would cost about then same so I might as well go 8.8


I phoned Tara to see what their VERY cool and complete rear 60ís would cost and they said complete ready to install $4292.00cnd

I little too pricey for me


My hesitation on going with a 60 rear is the extra weight and loose of ground clearance. The other downside is that if it does brake and youíre out of town you are screwed for finding parts. I know that I shouldnít need to find parts because they donít break but tell that to Rich when he broke his 60 up at Placer Lake.

Figuring in my driving style I think that the 8.8 with heavy duty axles should be strong enough.

I sure hope so and not broke on the trail with Mikey saying I told you so. [27]

redman
03-03-2006, 01:46 PM
I sure hope so and not broke on the trail with Mikey saying I told you so. [27]

that would suck

watch out for the cost I have priced those out bwefore i would factor in some extra money for the unknown

u2slow
03-03-2006, 02:01 PM
8.8 Diff with disk brakes $ 00.00
Gears $300
Locker $700
Axles $500
bearings 200-300
brakes and misc 200

$2,000

A waggy 44 would cost about then same so I might as well go 8.8


I phoned Tara to see what their VERY cool and complete rear 60ís would cost and they said complete ready to install $4292.00cnd


That's crazy [16]

Start with a D60SF that already has 4.10s & open diff. Get it narrowed and 9" flanges put on. Order 35sp axles and a lunchbox locker. Add brakes. Done.

Big_Ern
03-03-2006, 02:05 PM
can't you shave a 60 to be close to a 44 clearance-wise?

Nutbar
03-03-2006, 02:09 PM
depends on the housing Ern my H60 Ford has no meat on the bottom of the pumpkin to be shaved. Or you can go with the Tera high clearance high pinion 60 and out of the box has more ground clearance than a stock 44.

Big_Ern
03-03-2006, 02:15 PM
ah ok. They just look so big & bulky like there would be a good inch+ you could shave off them.

B
03-03-2006, 07:03 PM
hey kev i know u gots a deal on the 8.8 the only reason i mention this is cause after 4 linking my junk... the diff width is very important as the suspension works so well... with shawns "nig" w his 8.8 he rubbed the fuc out of his inner rear fender wells and u will flex so much better 4 linked ... as the 8.8 is narrower than ur rear allready allthou only 2 " or so i would hate to see u do it all and not get the most out of it other options must be out there that make sense as well ...guys help me out here...

stuckle
03-03-2006, 07:14 PM
ah ok. They just look so big & bulky like there would be a good inch+ you could shave off them.

i know you can shave the 14 bolts and get an extra 2 INCHS of clearance on them...not sure abou tthe 60 tho

u2slow
03-03-2006, 09:43 PM
Shave 1" from a D60 and its about the same as a D44 for clearance... in a Heep no less [f]

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/shaved60/

Nutbar
03-04-2006, 06:21 AM
#1 B the 8.8 is wider than Kevs existing diffs the CJ5 always used the narrow track jeep axles. 3 inches narrower than the 82 and up CJ7 4 inches narrower than YJ. 8.8 exploder is 1.5 inches narrower than YJ

#2 Dave you can take about 3/4 to 1 inch off the bottom of 14 bolt have done it myself

#3 u2slow not all 60 housings can be shaved my high pinion ford 60 has what looks like a big cast flange off bottom of pumpkin but if you take off the cover and look it has a big oil well in the bottom and there is only about a 1/2 inch of meat there

[cheers]

Nutbar
03-04-2006, 06:26 AM
u2slow just saw the link on your post and I wouldn't grind out and weld any kind of cover plate like that on any diff I would run I would rather just suffer with the loss of ground clearance and not risk the structural integraty of the cast housing.

Greg82
03-10-2006, 12:22 PM
You can shave a 14 bolt more than 1 inch, as long you turn down the ring gear also.

It sounds to me like he is trying to keep this build light weight so 14B and 60 are out of the question.

What about those axle from overkill? Not sure about the weight on them, but they have massive ground clearance.

:D

Nutbar
03-10-2006, 01:06 PM
Again with the abuse I put my truck and diffs through there is no way you could ever talk me into cutting open my housing and welding in a new cover plate just to gain another 1/2 to an inch of ground clearance I would much rather leave the housings strength intact, and trust me I take the strength of everything on my truck to the limit and beyond. They don't call me Nutbar for nothing.[36] [36]

Nutbar
03-10-2006, 01:07 PM
Again with the abuse I put my truck and diffs through there is no way you could ever talk me into cutting open my housing and welding in a new cover plate just to gain another 1/2 to an inch of ground clearance I would much rather leave the housings strength intact, and trust me I take the strength of everything on my truck to the limit and beyond. They don't call me Nutbar for nothing.[36] [36]

Nutbar
03-10-2006, 01:07 PM
Again with the abuse I put my truck and diffs through there is no way you could ever talk me into cutting open my housing and welding in a new cover plate just to gain another 1/2 to an inch of ground clearance I would much rather leave the housings strength intact, and trust me I take the strength of everything on my truck to the limit and beyond. They don't call me Nutbar for nothing.[36] [36]

u2slow
03-10-2006, 05:54 PM
It sounds to me like he is trying to keep this build light weight so 14B and 60 are out of the question.

Ummm... a D60 semi-float is easy to do and significantly lighter than any full floater.

I have no more faith in an 8.8 than I do a 10/12-bolt or a D44. All the same crap if you ask me. [14]

FWIW, a 9" rear could be done too.... but it will cost you to upgrade to a 3rd that can take 35-spline. (Something you don't have to worry about on the 60.) But then do you go for a lightweight aluminum 3rd? High-pinion? (ala Hi9) Where do you stop?

ramitkamloops
03-10-2006, 09:47 PM
i,m doing a 88 yj with a 85 cj7 motor 5spdtranny and tcase with a d44 out of a jeep wagoneer and a 9" with detroit locker out of a early bronco and 4.56 gears. next year rebuild motor 4" lift and 33" tires got 31s for now