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Toy_Runner
02-27-2006, 10:16 PM
Displacment or Turbo [36] 4.3L v6 chev or turbo my 4 cyl and get the same Hp, which is easier/cheaper, i would say turbo [36] plus i just love the sound of a turbo [5]

duff
02-27-2006, 10:17 PM
go with the 4.3

230
02-27-2006, 10:19 PM
turbo takes rpm to spool up and that may be a prob in thick mud.Displacement will have more low end grunt for hill climbs too.

Big_Ern
02-27-2006, 10:19 PM
what you wanna build the truck for?

Turbo's tend to make thier power at higher rev's which isn't great for crawling.

stuckle
02-27-2006, 10:19 PM
350 dude

In The Zone
02-27-2006, 10:23 PM
460 dude

stuckle
02-27-2006, 10:24 PM
572 dude

Squishy
02-27-2006, 10:25 PM
if you have the proper turbo, you can expect to see full boost at 1800rpm under load, turbos can be hard to tune though, but if youve got the experience/time to learn, id go turbo. i wouldnt suggest more than 8lbs boost though unless the motor is built to handle it.

one pro of the turbo would be that it will daily drive like a stocker, until you get it under boost(ie load), then watch the fuck out! also you will have stock fuel economy until you put your foot into it!

i wanted to turbocharge my b2, but probably wont happen unless i get some wicked axles, but for the mustang..... who knows!

Squishy
02-27-2006, 10:26 PM
and i would see if you could steal a turbo off a turbo sprint or a svo mustang/xr4ti

Murd0c
02-27-2006, 10:36 PM
572 dude

[36] [36] [36] [36] [36] [36]

4.3 best move to go!!

Toy_Runner
02-27-2006, 10:36 PM
if you have the proper turbo, you can expect to see full boost at 1800rpm under load, turbos can be hard to tune though, but if youve got the experience/time to learn, id go turbo. i wouldnt suggest more than 8lbs boost though unless the motor is built to handle it.

one pro of the turbo would be that it will daily drive like a stocker, until you get it under boost(ie load), then watch the fuck out! also you will have stock fuel economy until you put your foot into it!

i wanted to turbocharge my b2, but probably wont happen unless i get some wicked axles, but for the mustang..... who knows!

if i am spending the money for turbo i would build the motor for about 10 pounds of boost, and mabey bore and stroke it to 2.7 L and hopefully be pushing around 200 Hp [36]

Toy_Runner
02-27-2006, 10:38 PM
350 dude
no 350, its a daily driver, i love the gas mileage of the 4cyl, and if its turbo it will be same/bit worse for normal driving but when i want the power its there[36]

Squishy
02-27-2006, 10:40 PM
if i am spending the money for turbo i would build the motor for about 10 pounds of boost, and mabey bore and stroke it to 2.7 L and hopefully be pushing around 200 Hp [36]

i wouldnt worry about bore&strokeing it, just make sure you have good hardware(arp) and good headgaskets, good ignition and eanough fuel to keep it alive. detonation is what will kill the motor(unless you were running crazy boost, but 10psi isnt much) another thing, turbos love load, so when going with a turbo(in the case of my mustang, for performance, not off road) they like a higher(numerically lower) gear ratio. another thing, turbo lag, if set up properly you can achieve basically no lag, smaller turbo, spools up faster, but produces less boost(but not too small). this is the reason some peope run twin turbos, achieve the same amount of boost out of 2 smaller turbos, but they spool up a lot quicker than a single. ive herd of people with NO lag, but that was not reccomended, because it is too much power off of idle(guy i talked to would break loose at 70mph in 5th gear because of no lag at all, kinda scary, he advised against this)

Toy_Runner
02-27-2006, 10:53 PM
i wouldnt worry about bore&strokeing it, just make sure you have good hardware(arp) and good headgaskets, good ignition and eanough fuel to keep it alive. detonation is what will kill the motor(unless you were running crazy boost, but 10psi isnt much) another thing, turbos love load, so when going with a turbo(in the case of my mustang, for performance, not off road) they like a higher(numerically lower) gear ratio. another thing, turbo lag, if set up properly you can achieve basically no lag, smaller turbo, spools up faster, but produces less boost(but not too small). this is the reason some peope run twin turbos, achieve the same amount of boost out of 2 smaller turbos, but they spool up a lot quicker than a single. ive herd of people with NO lag, but that was not reccomended, because it is too much power off of idle(guy i talked to would break loose at 70mph in 5th gear because of no lag at all, kinda scary, he advised against this)

i am running 33'' tires with stock 4:10, so it has load, and i would need forged crank rods and pistons, for 10 pounds of boost ???, how much boost can i run with stock compression 9:1 I think, and stock turbo'ed motors were 7.5:1

ToyotaHEAD
02-28-2006, 12:16 AM
If you wanna run 10lbs of boost on a 22RE much like Squishy has said, you will need certian things:

- fuel pump
- bigger injectors
- different ignition curve
- I would suggest an intercooler

If your gonna be building the motor for a turbo application, this generally mean lowering the motors compression. For this fact alone in my opinion is not suited for 4x4 application. However a properly sized turbo can help. In either case a low compression motor has very little bottom end torque. **It is just something to keep in mind.

Also should you be goin with a stock 22RET manifold / Turbo setup, the manifold is VERY prone to cracking between cyl's 2&3. As well the Toy turbo like to carbon up and the sticks the bypass shut, resulting in stupids ammounts of boost in very short time under the right circumstances.


My suggestion to you is build up a wicked 22RE and gear your diffs according to your tire size. You will be much happier in the long run, as well as money ahead. Sure the Turbo would be slick, but are you prepaird to warm it up, and cool it down properly for each use??? If you can not say yes to that 110% of the time your turbo WILL NOT last! And you will have another $ bill.

78bronco
02-28-2006, 12:24 AM
build a 808 stroker from ford

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 12:31 AM
Remember if you are turbo'ing a motor you also have to run premium gas, so that "saving money on gas" shit Squishy is talking about is BS. Also when running a turbo setup you need more fuel, once again, fuel economy, buh bye. Depends on what you want to do with your rig. If your using the toybox as what it is meant for I would keep it light weight.

Run a 22RE with a Supercharger running 5lbs of boost on stock 9:1 compression. Sure it might not sound like much, but it will kick ass. 160hp / 160-70tq is wicked in a crawler. Also you are saving on the weight over a v6 or 350.

Things you will need to run a basic SC setup:

Supercharger (I suggest a buick v6, i think buck 3600's have em)
Custom intake box direct into runners
Water injection for cooling (I have MANNNNNNYYYY reasons for this, if you want me to explain I can in techniacl detail)
Megasquirt EMS or MicroTech (Engine Management)
Bigger fuel pump and injectors (from a 22ret)
2.5" exhaust w/ a nice set of headers
Blow off valve
Boost controller
EGT and Boost gauge

You will need to think about oil jets as well.



Remember when boosting a motor you are no longer dealing with vaccum, this is what a regular engine does. Now all your vaccum lines have gone from suck to blow. Better make sure you have good vaccum lines and all seals are good in the block.

Any more boosted stuff, ask away.

Nutbar
02-28-2006, 12:40 AM
Remember if you are turbo'ing a motor you also have to run premium gas, so that "saving money on gas" shit Squishy is talking about is BS. Also when running a turbo setup you need more fuel, once again, fuel economy, buh bye. Depends on what you want to do with your rig. If your using the toybox as what it is meant for I would keep it light weight.

Run a 22RE with a Supercharger running 5lbs of boost on stock 9:1 compression. Sure it might not sound like much, but it will kick ass. 160hp / 160-70tq is wicked in a crawler. Also you are saving on the weight over a v6 or 350.

Things you will need to run a basic SC setup:

Supercharger (I suggest a buick v6, i think buck 3600's have em)
Custom intake box direct into runners
Water injection for cooling (I have MANNNNNNYYYY reasons for this, if you want me to explain I can in techniacl detail)
Megasquirt EMS or MicroTech (Engine Management)
Bigger fuel pump and injectors (from a 22ret)
2.5" exhaust w/ a nice set of headers
Blow off valve
Boost controller
EGT and Boost gauge

You will need to think about oil jets as well.



Remember when boosting a motor you are no longer dealing with vaccum, this is what a regular engine does. Now all your vaccum lines have gone from suck to blow. Better make sure you have good vaccum lines and all seals are good in the block.

Any more boosted stuff, ask away.

[iagree]
if boosting the motor is the way you want to go, go super charger over turbo you get all the advantages of the turbo with more reliabilty and no turbo lag much better for a 4x4 aplication

Squishy
02-28-2006, 12:54 AM
depends which type of supercharger, if a twin screw or roots style(positive displacement), yes, but for a centrifigual supercharger, they only make max boost at high rpm's, generally on a 5-6psi kit, they produce about 1psi per 1000rpm. you also need to run on premium with a supercharger, forced induction is forced induction. a supercharger takes power to spin the turbine, which comes in the forum of a belt driven off the crank. a turbo relys on exhaust gasses to pass through the housing and spin an impeller, many consider a turbo as close to free power as yuo can get, very efficent. again, everyone says turbo lag, maybe between 1-2000 rpm, but if set up properly(and yes there is a way to do it) you can basically eliminate the "lag". i dont think turbo is ideal for 4x4ing, or else everyone would run them, but most are n/a motors.
im not trying to convince anyone that turbo is better than a supercharger, the charger definately is easier to install, no exhaust to plumb., but a properly setup turbo will make more power than a charger on the same motor(depending on cam)

if i could run a supercharger on a 4x4 id definately go with a kenne bell (makes boost throughout the whole rpm range, i think max boost is achieved around 2000rpm and on, so basically at 2000rpm you could have 5-6psi from a turbo OR supercharger) but i dont know if they are available for toyotas

trav, im not saying your wrong, but could you tell me a little more about a bov on a supercharged engine? ive never ran into this before and would like to know a little more

nykoma
02-28-2006, 08:57 AM
[15] turbo [cheers] [cheers]

Toyquad
02-28-2006, 10:17 AM
i like stock motors..... they are reliable...... turbo's and superchargers are fun.... but more stuff to worry about. IF i was gonna do a motor swap it be 4.3.... carb'd on propane...... but my underpowered 22r doesnt break stuff and i like it that way.

Toyquad
02-28-2006, 10:19 AM
or be like a detroit desiel and supercharge and turbo it... haha

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 10:42 AM
You dont have to run a BOV on a SC, but its called pimp factor. For the extra $200 or shit even $50 for a DSM (Talon, Eclipse, Laser) BOV you have a wicked way of getting rid of any positive air in the system. You may create a bit of lag in the SC spool up, but when your climbing a section and you hear the "psssssshhhh" of a BOV, you gotta smile :)

Don't make me bust out my can of turbo ownage on your ass. [f]

You say that a centrifugal SC will only make boost at high RPM. That is not true, you can change the pulley on the SC and make it acheive FULL boost to what the pulley can do at like 1500rpm. Boost and RPM mean nothing except for, hey thats where I achieve full boost and thats where my turbo or SC runs out of efficency (to much heat for how much pressure the system is creating).

Turbo also has its drawbacks as well. Eventhough a SC creates heat from friction, a Turbo produces quite a bit more heat than a SC from being just oposite of the manifold/dump tube. The heat will stay in the engine bay unless you have a ridiculous amount of fans all around your truck. You also have to plumb a SEAMLESS, mandrel bent set of upper and lower intercooler pipes. This can be an issue as space around the engine is bad. We also touch onto something else here, how fast are you driving when your wheeling? I know for sure I don't wheel at 50km/h, so an intercooler would be basically useless as it needs air to be passing through it. Got heatsoak? This is why I would run an Aquamist water injection setup for cooling (also you keep the top of your pistons from carboning up)

Food for thought:
Remember where the majority of wheeling is, up in the mountains. What does being up in a mountain do to air. Thins it out, correct? Being in a boosted vehicle is very "finnicky" Being 1000m up in the mountain can cause the air to be thinner making your air to fuel mixture go WAYYY out of wack. You could cause detonation in no time.



Running a SC with a collector that dumps right into the engine and a Aquamist kit will make boost work EFFICENTLY when wheeling. Sure I love turbo to, but it is not practical for wheeling, maybe if you are draging a car, definately not wheeling.

Nutbar
02-28-2006, 10:50 AM
cool dude you sound like you know your shit on SC stuff
a naturally asp guy myself have built lots of high horse na SBCs and a few over 9500 rpmers you and I are gonna have to sit down and bench race sometime

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 11:14 AM
You got it Mikey!

I have worked on some pretty scary Wankel turbo setups (1000hp) as well as DSM turbo setups. Mostly import turbocharged vehicles. I plan on having another DSM AWD in 5 years. Hopefully with the same setup as I had before just a bit more cleaner of an install.

Have you ever seen Dal's black with green flames Mustang run @ Mission before? Talk about spool up! Its got a 15" Turbo on the front of it with a 5" exhaust through the cab!! :eek:

Nutbar
02-28-2006, 11:27 AM
Haven't been to mission in ages but the mustang sounds way to COOL.
yep definately gonna have to start going to mission again this summer maybe it will get my ass in gear to finish my 69 AMX

Big_Ern
02-28-2006, 03:38 PM
You got it Mikey!

I have worked on some pretty scary Wankel turbo setups (1000hp) as well as DSM turbo setups. Mostly import turbocharged vehicles. I plan on having another DSM AWD in 5 years. Hopefully with the same setup as I had before just a bit more cleaner of an install.

Have you ever seen Dal's black with green flames Mustang run @ Mission before? Talk about spool up! Its got a 15" Turbo on the front of it with a 5" exhaust through the cab!! :eek:


you wannt build me a turbo for my rx7? :D


rotary power[36][36][36][36]

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 04:57 PM
No, that takes all the money away from Teabag [36]

Unless you have an extra 10g laying around :)

I have helped with a 13b TII swap into your exact chasis. Fuck that thing was scary fast. Had 3" exhaust, FMIC, 880cc injectors, Supra TT fuel pump, Microtech EMS and a whole lotta skinny pedal!!

Just do a street port on yours with exhaust and intake. Be done with it, you will get thrown back with just a street port, trust me.

Big_Ern
02-28-2006, 05:07 PM
ya I was actually thinking of doing a street port myself. Birdge port or peripheral port would kick ass, but it probably wouldn't be streetable. they tend to not idle under 1500-2000rpm


But now that I've fucked up the front suspension from jumping a median a while back, I think I'm just gonna sell it.

Altho I wouldn't mind another one if I can't find a 240Z. Gotta love the smooth power of a rotary[36]

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 05:12 PM
[36][36]

And also bridge port, kiss your engine good bye after 50K KM's.

A friend of mine is just getting into Rally racing, hes got the same chasis as yours with a street port and a sweet ass cage in it. Great to beat around in.

Nutbar
02-28-2006, 05:16 PM
rotaries are cool had a buddy with a 72 RX2 sleeper was an ex westwood car looked like a typical econo box outside but OH MY GOD that thing was quick and fast I never saw anyone beat it stop light racin, and the thing would make MY heart beat faster almost scarey 5.0s looked like they were standin still when we would F--k off from the light

Big_Ern
02-28-2006, 05:18 PM
Bridge port isn't that extreme, with the right apex seals (and maybe different rotor) it last longer than 50k. I dunno about peripheral or J port tho, they're fawkin nuts.

Its amazing the power you can get out of these things and still be N/A


Let me know if ya come across a cheap 1st gen rx7 travis. 12A or 13b doesn't really matter. Its easier to build up a 12A. the efi on the 13B is pretty limited unless you change the injectors & ecu.

Squishy
02-28-2006, 05:22 PM
You dont have to run a BOV on a SC, but its called pimp factor. For the extra $200 or shit even $50 for a DSM (Talon, Eclipse, Laser) BOV you have a wicked way of getting rid of any positive air in the system. You may create a bit of lag in the SC spool up, but when your climbing a section and you hear the "psssssshhhh" of a BOV, you gotta smile :)

Don't make me bust out my can of turbo ownage on your ass. [f]

You say that a centrifugal SC will only make boost at high RPM. That is not true, you can change the pulley on the SC and make it acheive FULL boost to what the pulley can do at like 1500rpm. Boost and RPM mean nothing except for, hey thats where I achieve full boost and thats where my turbo or SC runs out of efficency (to much heat for how much pressure the system is creating).

Turbo also has its drawbacks as well. Eventhough a SC creates heat from friction, a Turbo produces quite a bit more heat than a SC from being just oposite of the manifold/dump tube. The heat will stay in the engine bay unless you have a ridiculous amount of fans all around your truck. You also have to plumb a SEAMLESS, mandrel bent set of upper and lower intercooler pipes. This can be an issue as space around the engine is bad. We also touch onto something else here, how fast are you driving when your wheeling? I know for sure I don't wheel at 50km/h, so an intercooler would be basically useless as it needs air to be passing through it. Got heatsoak? This is why I would run an Aquamist water injection setup for cooling (also you keep the top of your pistons from carboning up)

Food for thought:
Remember where the majority of wheeling is, up in the mountains. What does being up in a mountain do to air. Thins it out, correct? Being in a boosted vehicle is very "finnicky" Being 1000m up in the mountain can cause the air to be thinner making your air to fuel mixture go WAYYY out of wack. You could cause detonation in no time.



Running a SC with a collector that dumps right into the engine and a Aquamist kit will make boost work EFFICENTLY when wheeling. Sure I love turbo to, but it is not practical for wheeling, maybe if you are draging a car, definately not wheeling.

thats called rice bro.... superchargers use a bypass(dfferent than blow off) valve instead of a bov, which gets away from the lag. i know it can be done, but the need for it is purely rice.

you dont need an intercooler with a turbo running at such low boost levels(allthough you would benefit from it, as would you with the supercharger)

with centrifigual superchargers, a simple pulley swap will not JUST make more boost at low rpm's. it will make more boost across the whole range, thats the reason. at the low rpm's the blower cant push enough air for you to "regulate" boost pressure. It is a centrifugal blower and boost is related to RPM at the impellor. so in order to get 5 pounds at 2000 RPM's(say you want 6psi max) you would have to pulley the hell out of it. So then when the engine reaches higher RPM's you are overspinning the blower and risk serious failure.

if you want instant boost at low rpm's, as i mentioned a postiive displacement type roots or twin screw blower is the way to go

got sc vs turbo smackdown?[22] i know this because i spent years looking into bolth the supercharger and turbo, at first i was 100% supercharger, but later on, i could see the disadvantages. id still kill for a twin screw(got big block torque?) supercharger.

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 05:28 PM
Wanna fight? [f]







[22]

Ern - I will let ya know. When you say cheap, you talkin downtown Hastings cheap, or Swedish Touch cheap.

Squishy
02-28-2006, 05:34 PM
Wanna fight? [f]







[22]
.


monkey bars, 3:15, i eat bigger turds than you for breakfast[22] "you eat turds for breakfast???"

Big_Ern
02-28-2006, 05:36 PM
...

Ern - I will let ya know. When you say cheap, you talkin downtown Hastings cheap, or Swedish Touch cheap.

downtown hastings cheap.

I picked up the one I got now for $600. If it wasn't for me being a dumbass and jumping the median it would still be a great car.

Nutbar
02-28-2006, 05:37 PM
FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT [36] [36] [36] [36] [kicknuts] [kicknuts]

[15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15]

Squishy
02-28-2006, 05:44 PM
FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT [36] [36] [36] [36] [kicknuts] [kicknuts]

[15] [15] [15] [15] [15] [15]

you want some of this too?[22] ill take u bolth on with my hands tied behind my back.[32]

my whole reason for being pro turbo over the sc is how efficent it is. there are STOCK mustangs that can produce upwards of 400rwhp, and run low 11's with just a turbo. hell the fastest vehicle ive been in was a dodge d-50(it had an aluminum headed, twin turbo'd propane 351windsor, with methanol injection)
he had a stock mustang 302(on propane and a propane/turbo cam) in the truck before the 351, no intercooler, single turbo, and in a 4000lb truck he went low 12's, it was also his dd and got better milage than his neon, believe it or not....

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 05:49 PM
I agree, im totally pro TURBO!! Turbo's kick ass. But then look at the actual numbers and the effects of what your ACTUALLY doing.

Turbo is the pimp shit, but a turbo works like shit when your going 5km/h and up 1000+ feet. Trust me, when I took my 350hp DSM up to Hopeslide, it ran like a fuckin Honda, just because of how the air was. Think about it.

You eat turds for breakfast?? Sick fuck. Got corn?

Nutbar
02-28-2006, 05:52 PM
Bring it on Sqish[f] [15]

Squishy
02-28-2006, 05:56 PM
I agree, im totally pro TURBO!! Turbo's kick ass. But then look at the actual numbers and the effects of what your ACTUALLY doing.

Turbo is the pimp shit, but a turbo works like shit when your going 5km/h and up 1000+ feet. Trust me, when I took my 350hp DSM up to Hopeslide, it ran like a fuckin Honda, just because of how the air was. Think about it.

You eat turds for breakfast?? Sick fuck. Got corn?

yup, mmmm corn.....[14]

ill take my 350hp mustang up to osoyoos, it runs a lot worse up there, and i know that forced induction does not work as well with changes of altitude.

Toy_Runner
02-28-2006, 06:01 PM
look's like a turbo vs: super charger, post [36]
but anyways i would be happy with 20 more hp
its a 85 22r (carb) got comp cam and flowmaster exhaust
msd coil? k&n Filter? what else ?

Squishy
02-28-2006, 06:06 PM
k&n sucks imo, i didnt notice anything when i went k&n. might want to port the head or throw in a cam? id talk to big ern, hes overhaulin his 22re

Big_Ern
02-28-2006, 06:16 PM
If you got $$$ to spend look into LC Engineering http://www.lcengineering.com/


Also just swapping over to EFI will get you 15-20hp & tq as well as better offroadability.

Toy_Runner
02-28-2006, 07:17 PM
If you got $$$ to spend look into LC Engineering http://www.lcengineering.com/


Also just swapping over to EFI will get you 15-20hp & tq as well as better offroadability.

ok thanks,
and how high does the 22r rev, mine will go to about 4 grand then just kinda stall out??

Toy_Runner
02-28-2006, 07:20 PM
oh ya and would it be worth it to put headers on it, and mabey an electric fan ??

Big_Ern
02-28-2006, 07:33 PM
there's somthing wrong if you can only get 4grand before it stall out

sounds kinda like a clogged fuel filter to me


you should hit redline easily with either carb or efi

Rebulon Refurbulater
02-28-2006, 07:54 PM
wow pretty informative guys....
i think i read about a company that has a kit to install the turbo in the rear of the vehicle........i think the application was camaro or something
Sounds to me like this would eliminate under hood temp issues and probley intercooler issues...
Ever seen this?
If so what do you guys think?
Or am i just on shrooms?
oh yeah im a firm believer of displacement for wheeling...id alwasys be worried about sucking shit into the turbo/blower.
I run the kand N just because you can clean them....i think afe is also marketing their own style of k and n type element
Pete

Squishy
02-28-2006, 07:56 PM
exhaust wrap will cure nasty underhood temps on a turbo setup, its pricey stuff though

Squishy
02-28-2006, 07:57 PM
you also want the turbo as close to the exhaust ports as you can get them for optimum performance

EIEIO
02-28-2006, 09:03 PM
ok, now that we know that ou have a 22r, do not boost it. Carbs are extremely hard to boost. Just rebuild it with a ported head, exhaust, cam and intake. Be done with it. Got gears?

Toy_Runner
03-01-2006, 01:17 PM
ok, now that we know that ou have a 22r, do not boost it. Carbs are extremely hard to boost. Just rebuild it with a ported head, exhaust, cam and intake. Be done with it. Got gears?

yeah, what gears should i be running with 33'', 4:88

EIEIO
03-01-2006, 01:25 PM
5.29's. You may be running 33's now, you wont in the future. TRUST ME! And getting an extra little bit of gearing when your wheeling is always nice. I am going to be running 5.29's with my 33's as well. Same price as the 4.88's.

Big_Ern
03-01-2006, 02:44 PM
4.56 will put you back to about stock with 33's, but you're turning a heavier tire and ovbiously a lifted truck so 4.88s would be better. And like travis said, if you ever go to 35+ in the future you'll want 5.29s, so its probably best just to get them right away. plus it gives you an excuse to go with bigger tires:D

Toy_Runner
03-01-2006, 05:55 PM
how much are gears, and yes i want 35'' but not on 4cyl motor

Big_Ern
03-01-2006, 06:07 PM
nothing wrong with 35's & a 22r if you got the right gears.

Toy_Runner
03-01-2006, 07:24 PM
ya, but iwant more power, what kinda power can i pump ou tof a 22r,
120 hp would be nice [36]

Big_Ern
03-01-2006, 07:34 PM
22re is stock at 112hp, so with you cam and exhaust you'll probably be over 120 if you did the efi swap

Toy_Runner
03-01-2006, 09:51 PM
http://www.lcengineering.com/

22R 99 HP @ 4800 RPM TORQUE 129 @ 2900 RPM
22R CALIF. 95 HP @ 4800 RPM TORQUE 129 @ 2900 RPM
22RE 116 HP @ 4800 RPM TORQUE 140 @ 2900 RPM
22RET 135 HP @ 4800 RPM TORQUE 173 @ 2900 RPM

Stock carb Flow 20R 200 CFM
22R 290 CFM

stock EFI Flow 500 CFM

degsey
03-02-2006, 03:14 AM
I drove a yota once

degsey
03-02-2006, 03:14 AM
Over it[f] [36]

degsey
03-02-2006, 03:15 AM
with my shitty jeep

Toy_Runner
03-02-2006, 06:27 PM
with my shitty jeep

ya shitty jeep, every time i see a jeep i laugh ha ha ha [36]