View Full Version : why toyota axles are so strong
01-12-2006, 05:20 PM
check out this link. its old but its making me think twice about dual cases
plus the comparison of a yota 8" to a 60 pinion is crazy
01-12-2006, 05:25 PM
YOu run 44 and Yota's I'l stick with my 60.
01-12-2006, 06:13 PM
this guy is a dip shit.
for one thing, a 4.10 IS stronger then a 5.71 because of the contact area. look at the depth of the teeth. the 4.10 concacts deeper.
go ahead, trade a 1 ton diff for a toy axle and see teh carnage that ensues.
01-12-2006, 06:23 PM
01-12-2006, 06:25 PM
he does have a point though about how the gears are setup makes a huge difference.
01-12-2006, 06:28 PM
its not the depth of contact its the total surface area the pinion is hitting the ring gear with. 6 tooth pinion will not contact as much surface area as a 12 tooth.
01-12-2006, 07:10 PM
i didnt mean that toy r&p is stronger than a 60, i just meant that compared to a dana 60 the pinion is "similar" and that the 5.71 appears to have close to the ammount of strength that a 4.10 has
01-12-2006, 07:18 PM
of coarse but if the ratios were the same the toy would be weaker.
01-12-2006, 09:37 PM
yet a 5.71 will not stand up as long as a 4.11 will.. even if the 4.11 is 20 years old.
01-13-2006, 12:08 PM
Give me yotas so I can stay with burfields. PERIOD!
01-13-2006, 02:36 PM
give me IFS because it is so advanced it should be on futurama
01-13-2006, 09:43 PM
The amount of tooth contact is similar between these two diffs if you go by the # of teeth in contact. However the 60 IS stornger due to each tooth is much longer in length. Which means MORE contact area overall.
This still does not mean i will be putting dana under my toyota. Just that I believe a 60 to be stronger.
If you saw and clicked on a link near the bottom this sums it up really good:
As seen at: http://www.zuwharrie.com/content/view/15/27/1/3/
Many people consider only the POWER issue of this equation as opposed to considering the STRESS LOADING situation as well. You need to change the ring and pinion gears also - relative to your tire size - which will make the driveshaft easy to turn again, taking all of the strain off of these parts - just like it was made from the factory when the smaller tires were on it. It is a mistake to do all of your gear reduction at one point. Especially that far up the mechanical chain.
Do yourself a favor....reduce the ratio at the ring and pinions relative to the size tire you want to run, then select the transfer case gears that will best meet your 4-wheeling needs. By going this route, you will have a well thought out and trouble-free drivetrain, working well within the parameters of strain that the parts can and will reliably handle.
01-23-2006, 04:59 PM
its an interesting comperison but sort of cave man thinking (bigger tooth better ) its sortof like axle shaft splines a finer spine on an axle will be stronger if the axle diamiter is the same as one with a corser splin becaus the contact area is the same or larger and the base material has been cut in to less
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