View Full Version : 91 4Runner SAS Front Drive Shaft

01-09-2006, 06:22 PM
Customer has bought a 4Runner already done with SAS, 15" or so of lift, etc.

The only thing that hasn't been done is the front driveshaft. The CV won't allow enough angle to reach the front diff.

what have most of you Toyota SAS builders done to solve this?

Pat's Driveline has quoted me upwards of $1600 for a new shaft.


01-09-2006, 07:02 PM
i think youd have to get one of those shafts ask mudram what he did on the chev he worked on, might be the same

01-09-2006, 07:04 PM
the older cv's turn more of an angle than the newer style ones.

01-09-2006, 08:31 PM
even with the other cvs style it wont make up for 15" of lift. you will need to cut and turn the knuckels to rotate the pinion..

01-09-2006, 08:33 PM
sorry, didn't read the 15" lift. got street truck?

01-09-2006, 08:35 PM
Yes, use a older CV and then go square drive shaft total cost $60 if you make it your self $120 to get it made (BULIT PROOF)

01-09-2006, 08:38 PM
Yes, use a older CV and then go square drive shaft total cost $60 if you make it your self $120 to get it made (BULIT PROOF)

what he said

also the newer ifs CVs can be ground down to get more angle out of them.

Altho for my square shaft I'm just using a regular non-cv u-joint at each end and it seem to be holding up just fine.

01-09-2006, 10:06 PM
maybe 15"..... Not sure what the lift is due to being IFS and radical angles on the rear 4 Link. it could be 10", regardless, it's bigish.

I looked at the pinion angle on the diff, it may help a little bit but it's minimal when it comes to when it flexes out on the passenger side.

What year DriveShafts allow more angle?

I will look at the CV tomorrow and see if there is room to grind. How much will that weaken the CV?

Open U-Joint on either end might work too, I'll have to see the truck again(I have the driveshaft in my possesion, not the truck) and see if there is room for that, the skid plate may have to be cut away.

who wants to build a square shaft?

hmmmmmm, just realized I can't find the emoticons, how the hell can a guy express himself without emoticons......LOL

Rebulon Refurbulater
01-09-2006, 10:35 PM
Thats a lot of lift for a streetable toy......is it gonna be a pavement princess .......sometimes off road or hard core off road?
i would think a long splined slip is in order.......perhaps custom cv and high angle offset u joint at the pumpkin........................................... ....................iff its only gonna see 4 wheel drive twice a year in the snow well you have several cheap options...........if its slow low range only mild wheeling other options........if its hard core.....weld up whatever you want but use good= expensive joints, double cardans etc..................
need more info!

01-10-2006, 01:41 AM
it sits pretty nice on the 35"s, a little overboard but not huge. Not too impressed with the rear lift, the 4 link sit at this angle " \ ", or close to it, no joke. would be much nicer with some longer arm suspension in the rear.

Not sure how it will be driven, I assume it will be wheeled and probably wheeled hard. I would like to instal a suitable driveshaft that will stand up to "reasonable" wheeling. The biggest factor on this is that currently, with the truck sitting on flat pavement, the front drive shaft sits about 1" above the pinion. At full flex, with the right front at full articulation I could see it needing to come down atleast another 3-4", that's alot of angle. for the CV.

01-10-2006, 01:51 AM
put in dual cases so the angle isn't as extreme

solve 2 problems in one go. and probably for about the same price as an expensive high angle long slip driveshaft.

Marlin's adapters are on sale right now for $289us I believe

either that or take out some fawkin lift. 4" is platey for little 35's if you don't mind cutting the fenders a bit. 6 or 7 if you don't want to cut at all. keep it low and it'll be more stable. I don't imagine those 10-15" lift springs flex very much either

I know its your customer's tho, so I guess the choice isn't completely up to you....

01-10-2006, 09:51 AM
try coast powertrain for drivshaft work,,, they do good work.... we deal with them at work for semi truck stuff,,, but i seen tehy did a toyota long travel front shaft looked wicked,,, good price too

01-13-2006, 11:16 PM
WEll if you'd consider puttin in a dual tcase setup to solve driveshaft angles, why not toss the idea of a hypinioin diff in there too??

Also yes with the 79-85 Straight Axled Toyota driveshafts their cardens flex alot. However they have a very small weak pin flange in them. The IFS cardens doent flex as much. However I have found the full time cardens found on Tacoma rear driveshafts flex the same to 79-84 shafts mention eariler. AND they are all BEEF, and have outter retainer clips. (Makes for easy fix in the field "should" it break)

But if you still require more driveline flex, goin with a single ujoint at the top and 1 at the bottom is gonna be your last option. I personally am not a fan of the square driveshaft, but do agree they are cheep and tuff. Especially if you must factory in a long travel slip yoke.

Just my 2cents.

01-15-2006, 11:44 PM
dual T-case is currently out of the question.

what year Taco's have the rear full time cardens? I would prefer to not go to a square shaft yet, but haven't dismissed the option. I am considering a single joint at the top or maybe finding a shaft out of an earlier straight axle toy.

01-15-2006, 11:50 PM
its still ifs? i dont know about a square shaft then, would that even work?

01-16-2006, 10:55 PM
All Taco's have full time rear cardens!

01-17-2006, 11:17 AM
it's not IFS, it's has a straight axle in it already.

all taco's have the cardens, good to know, I'll source one out and see if it might help