View Full Version : Toy diff Q

08-12-2005, 08:43 PM
Can I take the pinion flange from my IFS diff and put it into an 82 rear diff without screwing up backlash, teeth contact pattern and all that stuff?

I went to stuff my (1982) 5.29`s in today and found out that the old diff flange doesnt meet up with the driveshaft flange bolt holes.

It seems the older diffs were a square bolt pattern and my newer IFS rear diff is more rectangular.

I am just worried about swapping out the pinion flange and screwing up my gear setuup I just had done.

I tell ya, what a fuckin chore this has been. I wanted to get the gears in for this sunday, so no luck in doing it now.
Glad I started with the rear diff first and not the front end.

I`m hung like Einstein
and smart as a horse.

08-12-2005, 08:46 PM
I am off at 6 tomorrow if you can get an answer about the rear end then we can do it tomorrow night fresh for sunday actually I wouldnt mind puttin my one locker in for sunday too if anyone else wants to have a couple beers and do some trails preps for sunday

PHENOMINAL COSMIC POWERS!!! itty bitty livin spaces.

82 Toyota LB 33x12.50 M/T,fully rebuilt 22R bored .030 over, comp cam,350 Holley carb, Hedman header

86 4runner gloss black spray bomb paint job and power windows

08-12-2005, 08:56 PM
I have done a few times and had no problem,but to be sure as long as its not a crush sleve it will be fine if its a crush sleve add a slight bit more torque should be just fine.

Sex is like a drug! It makes me feel funny!

08-12-2005, 09:14 PM
Ya , its a crush sleeve I believe.

I am worried about the pinion bearing when I retorque it. I was thinking of getting an IFS flange (rear diff) from the wreckers and using it so I can keep my stock gears just the way they are as a back up just in case. It would mean that I wouldnt have to have the stock gears in there already, to be setup again saving me some cash.

If I could machine a cup to fit over the pinion nut nice and snug in the pinion nut recess, I could always redrill. Noticed a writeup on Pirate.

Either way, I think the proper way is to get the right flange and a solid spacer and get rid of the crush sleeve. Something I didnt know or would have done it in the first place.

Looks like I will be running my stock gears for Sunday.

I`m hung like Einstein
and smart as a horse.

sj-x 500
08-13-2005, 03:58 PM
either re drill, OR! dun nuh nuh nuhhh! you could use one of my spare early toy drive shaft end flanges. seperate the son of a bitch at the u-joint, and use the one you need.

Zuk's on Ice.

08-13-2005, 08:34 PM
I am still kind of screwed. I got the stupid speed sensor that bolts to the top of the carrier. DOnt think I really need it, I think its for the ABS crap.

Who needs brakes anyways?

What would be coll is for someone to produce a piece that fits in the recess where the pinion nut is, so you can take the driveshaft flange and mark and then drill without worry.

I`m hung like Einstein
and smart as a horse.

08-14-2005, 06:07 AM
Just swap the flang, I have done this lots of times never had a problem.


08-14-2005, 12:17 PM

78FJ40-stump puller 350,4",rhino lined allover
894RUNNER-SAS'd,Allpro high steer,chevs rear,smokin 22re

08-15-2005, 06:26 AM
if you have spare drive shaft yoke that should fit in the recess where the pinion nut is and you can re drill the flange using that
you can change the flang just make sure that you dont over tork the pinion nut and crush the sleve more

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