View Full Version : dropped steering arm really stuck

07-22-2005, 06:07 AM
[V][V]I really need some help. My dropped steering arm is really rusted\siezed on good. I tried the 5 lb hammer and the BFH but stiill stuck. I've tried heat and lots of moovit. I've decided to finish putting in my lift and then I will back off the 3 nuts a tad and then dive it around the block and hope it will break free. Any other help would be greatly appreciated.[h][h]


07-22-2005, 06:16 AM
match and a jerry can full of gas should fix your problem. It is a chevy after all[f]

Daily Driver: '83 RX-7
Old rig: '89 4Runner 'The Last Ride (http://www.funinbc.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14144)'
TeaBag: '80 Toy "4Runner" on 36" SXs with dual t-cases [8D]

07-22-2005, 10:14 AM
is it the arm on the diff or the steering box

07-22-2005, 04:04 PM
he said three bolts so i would assume its the one on the knuckle.

07-22-2005, 04:18 PM
this is if you are talking about the raised sterring arm, not the dropped pittman arm.
The raised steering arm are always a bitt of a problem to get off, but what would rather have a loose one or tight..?

on my chevy it took several beatings with a hammer to get the a-corns out(little cone shaped wedges) they do get rusted up gooder, but nothing your RBFH wont solve just be careful not to hit it in the same spot too many times or you will create weak spots.

i found that once you see it move a bit knock it back and forth to get it out, and no a match will not work, i hear that works well on 4-runners,but not in this case.

to tell you the truth i used my dads sledge too get mine off,and with alot of f-c-f word it finally broke free....and i DO-NOT suggest you take it for a ride around the block- instead put you tire up against something like a tree but in most cases it will push the truck over.

disclamer- thats the way i did it, not saying it is the right way, or the wrong way, just a suggestion[36]and always use new parts to put it back together this is your steering, your worst nightmare if it was too come off[36]


07-22-2005, 07:30 PM

07-22-2005, 09:58 PM
had to heat one up gooder with the oxy accetiline torch big swings with a sledge. once we got it to move a bit took a flat screw driver and tapped it into the split on the accorn wedges to free them from the studs.then more moovit and tapping back and forth with the hammer to get em off. just keep workin at it u will get it.check your studs before using them again, like everyone else said ya don't want this comin apart on ya.

GOLF ? .......

that's like playing fetch with out a dog!

terrace bc

07-23-2005, 01:42 PM

Thanks for the replies. The next day we applied LOTS of heat from the oxy/acet cutting torch, plus constantly trying to keep the ball joints cool. I figured if disc brakes make your rotor hot then a torch would be ok, plus the knuckle absorbs a lot of heat. Then with a 10 lb sledge and my 230 lb buddy Mike, the 3rd and 1st cones moved up. We threaded these out with needle nose vice grips. More heat, more hammering and the last cone came out.

Finally we got my Jimmy on the road at 2 am with the 4" susp. lift, however we soon discovered the front driveshaft cv was rubbing on the cross member, so out the driveshaft came. Then a vibration became noticeable, especially once Mike went home. Without his 230 lbs in the truck the susp. does not sink as much and I figured that is why the vibration increased slightly. After a short drive around the block this morning I have concluded the vibration is coming from the rear driveshaft and it only vibrates when I accelerate. I remembered I was told to drop the transfercase crossmember 1" to improve driveshaft angles. My rear 4" blocks came machined shimmed and I put shims in the front too - also I made certain they were in correct. So under the truck I will be Sunday morning. Anyone think I am on the right track or have anthing to add? :) Is 1" enough?

One more problem, I did have the drivers side calliper off and both hoses off and had squeezed lots of fluid out the drivers side calipper while I removed the steering arm and re-routed the front brake lines and brackets for the flexible brake lines. We bled only the front brakes but the truck pulls hard to the right when braking. Does this mean the front brakes need more bleeding, OR do I bleed all 4 brakes, OR/AND rear brake shoes adjusted, OR did I did I do damage to the front end by pounding on it with a sledge??? All 4 front ball joints are a little worn but I'm pretty sure the brakes just need bleeding. It did pull a little to the right before the 4" lift. Also I made certain I did not kink any lines. Is it best to bleed front brakes with the engine running when you pump the brakes when bleeding? My buddy Mike insisted I keep the engine off. I've successfully bled brakes with the engine running before.

So any ideas?

ps, thanks again Stranger gor the tanks, and as for matches and gas, don't play with that kind of stuff in a tree fort[c]

Big Tomato can + solvent + wood + matches is not good idea when father catches you trying to heat your tree fort[xx(]:(;)


Rebulon Refurbulater
07-23-2005, 04:19 PM
Pulling may be a seizing caliper.....grease on the roter or?
maybe heated or warped (any pedal surging?) roters....if roters ok....change both calipers and pads.....good luck....oh yeah....do you have a double cardan rear shaft...or...single ujoints at eachend?
if single....pinuion angle should match t case output angle....if cardan...the pinion shouild be within 3 degrees of pointing straight at the t case.......

For Sale 38.5x12.5x16.5 tsl sx super swampers on steel 8 lug rims only 2 left for spares. Good from 36 to 38 inch tires...100.00 ea..7"springs for super duty...like new ...send me a msg.
Wheelin',Workin',........oh yeah....Sex!

07-23-2005, 08:37 PM

will check for grease on rotor\pads

rear driveshaft is single.. u-joint, then tube, then 2nd u-joint, no slip shaft, just slides in\out of t-case. Will try dropping cross member tomorrow.


07-28-2005, 07:41 PM
Cleaned rotors, no more pull, but one calliper is still sticking a bit. Dropped x-member 1.5" .. vib. totally gone!!


sj-x 500
07-28-2005, 07:46 PM
get a spare arm.

once you heat a hardned peice of steel it crystalises, if it turned red, it will bust.

Zuk's on Ice.