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Fuzzydog
05-30-2005, 10:49 AM
With the lift in my Cherokee, I have a bit of a thump thump thumping only under heavy braking with no load in the vehicle. With even just the kids (total of about 100 lbs) in the back seat, it doesn't happen. I had a look at the front u joint on the rear driveshaft and it looks like very close tolerance and is prob binding when I brake.
I'm considering a SYE, but that might be overkill for this.
So, I looked at some tcase lowering kits. Is it just me, or are these just spacers that go in between the tcase crossmember and the frame? They look like pieces of metal with appropriate holes drilled in them? I'm just as cheap as the next guy, maybe even cheaper. I can do that myself.

It's a very mild lift, I bet no more than 2" over stock - how much should I drop the tranny?

A tcase drop should also get my rear yoke a bit further into the tcase as well....



"Your balls, once swallowed, cannot be reattached.....I'm just saying"

Taz Jeep
05-30-2005, 12:08 PM
I ordered the 1 inch drop for mine, as far as I can tell
they are just spacers, you'll also need longer bolts, although
if you order a kit they come supplied.






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bakelite
05-31-2005, 04:00 AM
I'll go look...not sure now















"The dumber people think you are, the more surprised they're going to be when you kill them."

bakelite
05-31-2005, 04:05 AM
my BDS(4") lift has two 3/4" by 1" rectangular tube sandwiched between the frame and the transfercase support. The drop is 3/4". You will need longer bolts but that and the steel should be easy to find and cheaper than ordering a kit...hope this helps.


I remember they call it a 1" drop but it looks more like 3/4"..I dunno how much you should drop yours, maybe 1/2"? Maybe use some washers and experiment with your angle then make up some spacers.















"The dumber people think you are, the more surprised they're going to be when you kill them."

Fuzzydog
05-31-2005, 06:49 AM
quote:Originally posted by bakelite



I remember they call it a 1" drop but it looks more like 3/4"..I dunno how much you should drop yours, maybe 1/2"? Maybe use some washers and experiment with your angle then make up some spacers.



Thanks, that's what I'll do. I may even be able to snag some 1/2" X 1" solid alum bar for a spacer.

This tcase drop is not tapered or anything, eh? like on yours it's 3/4" at the front and 3/4 at the back, right?


"Your balls, once swallowed, cannot be reattached.....I'm just saying"

England
05-31-2005, 01:38 PM
um best bet wield in a metal bar the hieght you want . Thats the strongest way Mike in the da pumkin did that

Chris S
05-31-2005, 03:17 PM
Just to make sure - Is it binding between the U-joint and the yoke that goes into the back of the t-case? If so a YJ yoke has much larger "ears" and will eliminate the binding.
Alternately a 1.5 degree shim under your springs, fat end to the back, will tilt your pinion up slightly and reduce binding. This may or may not introduce other vibrations though, depending on your current angles. The YJ yoke is a tad longer as well, so that's a good thing.
One or the other should solve the problem with no loss of clearance

To make your own t-case drop just use a chunk of box tubing the right length. Soak those bolts with WD-40 or similar a lot before you undo them. They're a bitch when they break off.

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bakelite
05-31-2005, 07:27 PM
no taper, nope.

















"The dumber people think you are, the more surprised they're going to be when you kill them."

biggestal
06-01-2005, 06:12 AM
a coupla other things to watch for wuth a tranny drop, fan shroud clearance!, cause the engine moves too, and front drive shaft clearance

Fuzzydog
06-03-2005, 06:09 AM
quote:Originally posted by Chris S

Just to make sure - Is it binding between the U-joint and the yoke that goes into the back of the t-case? If so a YJ yoke has much larger "ears" and will eliminate the binding.


Yes, I'm assuming that's where it is binding because when I was under there it looks like you could barely fit a piece of paper between them. under braking, rear lifts up and contact.

tell me more about the YJ yoke - I was considering getting a SYE, but is the yj yoke just drop in? any particular model years to look for or u joint issues?

"Your balls, once swallowed, cannot be reattached.....I'm just saying"

Chris S
06-03-2005, 05:01 PM
The YJ yoke was a straight swap on my 91. It is for all years I think. Just make sure if you get a used one that it is in good shape. If it's all rusted and scratched badly you will leak oil from the rear seal. I think I paid $65.00 for a new one at Gemini. A hack-n-tap skip yoke kit isn't much more, but then you also need to spring for a new rear driveshaft.

While you are under there you might as well change the rear T-case seal, it's something like $7.00.
If the yoke seems floppy in the back of the t-case then you also need to change the tail cone bushing. I got one for $9.00 at Amco trannsmission.



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