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View Full Version : U Joints... What Can I Do?


Squishy
04-25-2005, 06:41 PM
seems every 4x4 i get goes through a lot of u joints. well, the bronco needs a new one. it hasnt been out a whole lot(less than 10 times?) and probably less than 1000km's on it, and now im confused on what the proper pinion angle should be, or if my soft springs are what is causing the u joints to wear out this fast?

would an anti wrap bar stop this from happening? if so, how long should i build the bar? as long as the springs, or as long as the driveshaft(those are the only 2 lengths i know about) i dont want to limit wheel travel, should i mount it inboard or closer to the leafs?

Thanks

__________________________
1984 Bronco II, 302, NP435,NP208 Doubler, NP205,5.13 Dana 44/8.8 Fullwidth, Detroit, Coil Front, 36" Militarys
LOCKED AND LOADED!

Shenanigans!

ShortStack
04-25-2005, 06:46 PM
I twisted the rear driveshaft on my rear last week, fell off. Its at DPI right now, they said if ya call them, they'll check all the angles on the driveline and let ya know if its outtawhack or not.

It could be your working angles etc

~Jaime~
77 K5 - Big, black, ugly and all mine :)

jeeper
04-25-2005, 07:04 PM
If your getting a lot of axle wrap the you may do well with a traction bar aid of somekid ---The ujoints arent designed to take loads from excessive angles !


Im guessing you went spring over ?








Strip mining prevents forest fires.

Squishy
04-25-2005, 07:26 PM
spring over

__________________________
1984 Bronco II, 302, NP435,NP208 Doubler, NP205,5.13 Dana 44/8.8 Fullwidth, Detroit, Coil Front, 36" Militarys
LOCKED AND LOADED!

Shenanigans!

In The Zone
04-25-2005, 07:57 PM
WEll said bruce.

load and angle + carnage
traction and angle + carnage
axle wrap 5.0 ltr power +low gearing + u joints...

HMMMMMMM
ITS a FORD

gordwould
04-26-2005, 08:51 PM
if your doin a anti wrap try to get it as close to the pumpkin as possible and make it as long as drive shaft and make sure you make it so it turns with the the diff from side to side.
here is a link http://www.nolimitoffroad.com/picture.html
look in view slide show of suspension modifications and you will see what i mean for a good idea just click prev 7-8 times

http://www.funinbc.com/forum/uploaded/cracmasterg/2004113015120_Rollup.jpg

dexter302
04-26-2005, 09:13 PM
dont use precision u joints,, they suck,, use spicer u joints,, you can get them at "danco" equipment in port kells,, or mopac,, napa might have em,, but dont get em from lordco,,, they just buy em from danco,, then sell em to you...

This space for rent
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./'/.../..../.....:^.\
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Squishy
04-27-2005, 12:40 AM
ok, i think it was a precision, thats all ive ever ran in my vehicles(lordco is less than 2min walk, like 2 blocks)

__________________________
1984 Bronco II, 302, NP435,NP208 Doubler, NP205,5.13 Dana 44/8.8 Fullwidth, Detroit, Coil Front, 36" Militarys
LOCKED AND LOADED!

Shenanigans!

Pudge
04-27-2005, 08:31 AM
A friend of mine with a V8 Toyota kept blowing u-joints almost every time he went out. He's got a spooled 9" in it, and he put a brace from the pumpkin to the front mount where the gas tank mounts too?? don't know what you call it, but it broke the welds on the frame. He moved the brace to face reward and mounted from the pumpkin to his solid bumper and hasn't had a problem since.

MY OTHER RIDE IS YOUR MOM



82 CHEV-OTA STEPSIDE LIFTED ON 35'S

jeeper
04-27-2005, 01:43 PM
Im with dexter on this one as well ! Dont use the cheapy ujoints ! Use the spicers !








Strip mining prevents forest fires.

Squishy
04-27-2005, 03:27 PM
i have to run a combination u joint, and apparently precision is the only one who makes them.

__________________________
1984 Bronco II, 302, NP435,NP208 Doubler, NP205,5.13 Dana 44/8.8 Fullwidth, Detroit, Coil Front, 36" Militarys
LOCKED AND LOADED!

Shenanigans!

Broncoo
04-27-2005, 04:27 PM
the get the proper yoke and d-shaft so you can run common u-joints
how long is your rear shaft?

trying to get where i want to be

for sale:
3 ford np203-205 doubler adapters $480 each

racer874
04-27-2005, 05:25 PM
bullshit spicer makes every u joint that precision makes and more
phone pats driveline give them your crap u joint #
they'll figure it out
flip the extra few bucks for the non greaseables

In The Zone
04-27-2005, 05:32 PM
im lost non greaseable why?


i would perfer to give mine some fresh grease now and then


HMMMMMMM
ITS a FORD

Broncoo
04-27-2005, 05:43 PM
the thinkin is non-greasables don'tlet crap in makin em last longer and no weak spot due to thread in the joint

i run non greasables with no problems

trying to get where i want to be

for sale:
3 ford np203-205 doubler adapters $480 each

sj-x 500
04-27-2005, 06:21 PM
ya, just pack it with some good grease, and call it a day

Zuk's on Ice.

Squishy
04-27-2005, 08:13 PM
i think i may have found the spicer joint #, so im going to try that.

this u joint bolth the caps broke on the diff side(like the bearings wore out then did hell to the caps), but the 2 caps that go in the driveshaft were perfect.

__________________________
1984 Bronco II, 302, NP435,NP208 Doubler, NP205,5.13 Dana 44/8.8 Fullwidth, Detroit, Coil Front, 36" Militarys
LOCKED AND LOADED!

Shenanigans!

Broncoo
04-27-2005, 09:06 PM
you probaly over tightened the strap/u-bolt causing the cap to distort

only a theory i'm sure it is possible

trying to get where i want to be

for sale:
3 ford np203-205 doubler adapters $480 each

Rebulon Refurbulater
04-30-2005, 09:33 PM
hey
Greaseable is the way to gio if your runnin in water or...mud....it displaces the water....you must grease after almost every dip in the mud....probably weekly.....the angle must be at least 3 degrees....minimum......any antiwrap device will limit wheel travel......if your truck isnt hopping when you do a burnout you probably dont need one.....if it breaks off its mounted impropperly.......non greasables are solid through the "tee" theoretically making them stronger or more resistent to breakage.....however water will still get past the seals because thet are the same as all the others....and the water and mud will cause corrosion and failure.....grease....grease.....grease.....

Wheelin', Workin',........oh yeah....Sex!

brandonf250
05-02-2005, 03:14 PM
YA WHAT HE SAID!

grumpyguy
05-03-2005, 08:39 AM
http://4xshaft.com/Super-Flex.html


Excuse me,but have you been drinking from the fountain of STUPID

Rebulon Refurbulater
05-06-2005, 08:57 PM
wtf....what does this have to do with the problems of this post?


For Sale 38.5x12.5x16.5 tsl sx super swampers on steel 8 lug rims..S.S brush guard for dodge pu...7"springs for super duty...like new ...send me a msg.
Wheelin',Workin',........oh yeah....Sex!

ez_b
05-07-2005, 12:44 AM
quote:Originally posted by BlazerGirl

I twisted the rear driveshaft on my rear last week, fell off. Its at DPI right now, they said if ya call them, they'll check all the angles on the driveline and let ya know if its outtawhack or not.

It could be your working angles etc

~Jaime~
77 K5 - Big, black, ugly and all mine :)



thats funny cuz it was behind our shop. we had a good chuckle:D

fuck work, go drinking

tbm
05-10-2005, 09:21 AM
quote:Originally posted by Broncoo


i run non greasables with no problems


every non-greasable u-joint i've ever peeled
apart the needle bearings are bone dry,rusty
and totally fucked.

your shit is not worth a penny more than what someone will pay for it.

racer874
05-12-2005, 06:03 PM
thats because they were 10 years old

m j
05-12-2005, 06:18 PM
quote:thats because they were 10 years old

so were the greaseable ones that were not fawked

nongreaseable ujoints are total junk
the seals are no better then a greaseable but you are not able to purge contaminants
I have never seen a ujoint break at the grease zerk so I would say they are no stronger

the greaseables are probably slightly MORE expensive but I would not put a NON in my vehicle
moving parts need lubrication.

_________________________
I am trying to feel sorry for you but I just can't seem to do it.

sj-x 500
05-12-2005, 07:15 PM
the best u-joint you'll ever have is a factory unit, be it greasable or not, it's usually a spicer

even in big trucks, the new trend is going towards non greasable u-joints (spicer life) i dunno why, but they to last, i think i may have changed one ... and most guys in the shop haven't changed one yet.

for the weak point at the grease nipple... it depends how you mount the joint, you have to place it so the foward load is compressing the hole, not expanding it, this way you can't break it at the stress riser *the hole* and after water dips, it is a good idea to grease them, i've blown a few non greasable prescision units, and they wear out bloody fast.

Zuk's on Ice.

m j
05-12-2005, 07:17 PM
I run Spicer Life GREASEABLE joints in my front D60 at the wheel joint location
part number spl55-4x

Spicer Life does not mean nongreaseable

_________________________
I am trying to feel sorry for you but I just can't seem to do it.

boyzen
05-12-2005, 07:33 PM
I am with the non greaseables they are tough and thats all I care about .So who cares if you need to take it apart every year i would anyways .


money costs too much!!!

m j
05-12-2005, 07:41 PM
do you change the oil in your engine or just rebuild it every year?

_________________________
I am trying to feel sorry for you but I just can't seem to do it.

sj-x 500
05-12-2005, 07:43 PM
mj, no. that's a BAD MJ!

spicer life, refering to 1610 and bigger series u-joints, are life time lubracated. as opposed to the standard spicer u-joints

Zuk's on Ice.