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Tinker
02-07-2016, 02:30 PM
So me Ferd was being a Turd. My 4x4 system s#@$ the bed. After excessive banging my head against a wall I decided to get logical with it. At this point i have already pulled my whole dash apart to take GEM (General Electronics Module) out for inspection for water intrusion. And checking the 4x4 relay above the radio. Next I Downloaded Ford troubleshooting manual.

Primary symptom was no power to the dash switch. Turn it and nothing would happen.

Headed to Dirka's to drink beer and borrow his Snap-on OBD reader.

Step 1 check all fuses under dash and under hood. Everything checked out good

Step 2 check power to fuses. All fuses powered

Step 3 plug in OBD and connect to GEM. .... success! Big one here as communication means module is good and functioning (was not experienceing any other GEM symptoms) . Went into 4x4 system and was presented 2 codes. They only show in the GEM and not in the PCM (ie check engine light is PCM) P1850 and P1854.

The text of the code is "transfer case plate B circuit open" and "plate C" what that actually is the GEM isnt reading the transfer case shift motor position. The module checks this at the start position of key. If it does not get the position reading as safe to engage, the GEM shuts off power to the 4x4 circuit.

I removed the transfer case shift motor to bench test and replace if necessary.

Once off truck I marked the position of the selector before taking it apart. I pulled apart the gear drive side and ran the motor in both directions. No issues found.

When I put the gear back in it was not at a complete travel position. About 1/2" out. I powered the motor and "parked" the gear at its stop and reassembled.

When reinstalling motor I noted spring tension from the t-case selector. Had to "clock the motor for alignment.

Plug it all back in and fired up the truck. When I threw the switch I heard the dash relay and t-case engaged and I got my dash light (missing for about a year). Wife claims I screamed like a girl but I was one happy guy.

Total cost of repair .... zero dollars and about 6 hrs diagnosis and re n re.

Burge
02-07-2016, 05:49 PM
[cheers] doesnt it feel good to properly troubleshoot something and not just toss your wallet it at:confused0006: nicely done[cheers]

vajayjay
02-08-2016, 08:37 AM
Nice.....

Now build a 4x4 :D

harvester_sorrow
02-08-2016, 10:49 PM
Good troubleshooting.

That was like the e locker in my truck. Would not actuate. Something in the computer. Grey wire mod and it was good to go.

dirka dave
02-10-2016, 03:23 PM
Learned a lot with this one.

[cheers]

It's nice to have the tools and the info to fix things rather than just blindly replacing parts like most backyard fixit people.

4skin
02-11-2016, 09:09 PM
So do you know why it wasn't working ?
Just make shure you have tools to pull it apart on the upcoming trip
Sucks when it's now in 4wd and won't come out when you get back to pavement
Basically the armature in the drive motor has a dead spot in it
If it stops in same spot again it may not move without some help

Tinker
02-12-2016, 12:21 AM
So do you know why it wasn't working ?
Just make shure you have tools to pull it apart on the upcoming trip
Sucks when it's now in 4wd and won't come out when you get back to pavement
Basically the armature in the drive motor has a dead spot in it
If it stops in same spot again it may not move without some help

Yea I know why and no that's not it. I didn't go with maybes or what ifs. Ford has a specific way of getting into and out of 4wd lo. Somebody (not myself) did not know the complete stop, turn switch, depress brake and wait for t-case to engage to 4lo procedure. Threw the switch back and forth on a boat launch and caused a 4wd circuit shut down fail safe (I know cuz dirkas reader showed me the 7 codes that popped when that happened). When the power got cut the motor had switched to 2wd but not completed its travel there by not showing the GEM a t-case position and maintaining no power to the 4wd system. If for whatever reason I do need to remove the motor again Im sure Ill be able to come up with a 10 mm. [cheers]

harvester_sorrow
02-12-2016, 04:14 AM
I like what ifs and maybes. Good job security

4skin
02-12-2016, 07:26 AM
II was more thinking of the t20 tamper proof bit for removing the gear cover on motor
Have the same truck at work was doing the same thing
Scanned it first before taking anything apart
Inoperative shift motor checked there was power to shift motor
Tried powering shift motor no worky pulled it off t case and took gear case apart
Put power to motor again worked fine
Cleaned up contacts and gear housing fresh grease
Put it back together worked fine for two weeks
And then it stuck in low range on a job site in Princeton
Oh and if it won't shift don't just pull shift motor off and manually shift it to 2h
And try to drive it aparently it makes a loud bang when it slips into neutral

oh and this was quoted from a Ford bulletin
Shift From 2H to 4H Results In Chatter and Clicking Noises From The Module, But No Shift

Typically, in this situation the motor hunts for 4H, but overshoots, then hunts back and overshoots the other way. After 7-10 seconds, with lots of clicks and chatter, the module gives up and returns to the default, which is 2H. This problem is normally not the sensor input. It is usually the result of the motor running too fast or braking too slowly to allow the module to position it accurately. The motor must be replaced.

Tinker
02-12-2016, 07:52 AM
[cheers] K, you must be right. I was wrong I, I can't fix my own junk.

4skin
02-12-2016, 09:59 AM
Not what I was saying just making a suggestion as to take
Any special tools to take it apart with you in case

Tinker
02-12-2016, 10:46 AM
If it shits the bed again I will replace the motor. As it is the motor was not taken apart nor would I take it apart. I ran the motor both ways checking current. No drop was noted. For whatever reason if it did get "stuck" in 4wd the selector can be manually shifted back to 2wd with the motor off. The gear can be reset and I will be able to drive home. I appreciate the concern but I think I got it covered.

I made the post to share with fibc and the internet for people to have more options than just throwing their wallet at it. I fully understand what worked for me may not work for others. Primarily there is no reference to those 2 codes directly pointing at the t-case shift motor as the reason. There is a slough of issues with the whole system all having different causes and solutions. This being just one, yours being another. Over all the years that I have worked on my own stuff I have probably saved 10's of thousands in shop costs. I don't pretend to know everything there is but I make it my buisness to research and learn. Its just nice to be able to help others in their search for answers.[cheers]

harvester_sorrow
02-12-2016, 05:16 PM
Remember the old manual shift days

Tinker
02-12-2016, 05:34 PM
Remember the old manual shift days

Bent or broken linkage.....yup

4skin
02-12-2016, 08:02 PM
Are those contacts not part of the shift motor assembly ?
Seems those codes point straight at that as the problem
Did you clean the contacts or did it just start working after you
Pulled gears apart I'm trying to learn here

Tinker
02-12-2016, 09:33 PM
The contacts are sealed in the plastic part that exposes the gear, non serviceable from what I came across. Unlike the one from a Ranger that you can clean the contacts. I cleaned, inspected and re greased then replaced the gear. With the 2 pins pulled from the plug I ran the motor to the stop that it was closest to and re installed. Yes at that point the whole system re energized. The GEM runs a quick diagnostic when the ignition turns to the start position. It read the position of the t-case and came out of the fail safe that had me with no 4wd circuit. Like I said if it does re occur it wasn't just the day at the boat launch and I will replace the motor.

Tinker
02-12-2016, 09:36 PM
PS I ran it to the stop with the contacts not installed. I put the contacts back on after.

4skin
02-13-2016, 03:20 PM
Just a note that system won't send power to shift from hi
To low unless the transmission is in neutral
So turning switch on dash from hi to low in gear wouldn't do anything[cheers]

Tinker
02-13-2016, 05:38 PM
Just a note that system won't send power to shift from hi
To low unless the transmission is in neutral
So turning switch on dash from hi to low in gear wouldn't do anything[cheers]

You don't say? [f] Thanks...if not for your guidance and wisdom my truck wouldn't remain to be fixed.......
























nope





























wait...




















yes it would lol lol lol

4skin
02-13-2016, 07:15 PM
Just hope you didn't yell at who ever did it to bad
because it couldn't have caused the problem
Just saying

Tinker
02-13-2016, 07:29 PM
How do you know that? You some sorta magic internet mechanic? You weren't there and didn't work on the truck. Thats exactly where it happened and how it happened. I never yelled at anybody nor would I yell at a friend.Bout the only person I want to yell at it is you. You don't know everything about everything and sometimes people accomplish all kinds of things without your help or input.

Honky
02-13-2016, 08:35 PM
play nice friends [cheers]

atoyot
02-13-2016, 10:02 PM
i just heard the word friends and thaught id come in for a hug.....

Honky
02-13-2016, 10:35 PM
I'm in for some lay down naked struggle snuggles

harvester_sorrow
02-13-2016, 10:39 PM
With reach arounds

4skin
02-14-2016, 06:35 PM
Bahaha no magic just look up what doesn't happen if proper procedure to shift into low range
And on a safety note for anyone taking dash apart airbag equipped vehicles
Any plugs or wiring that are yellow or wrapped in yellow tape loom etc
Is airbag system messing with them could potentially set of air bags

Tinker
02-14-2016, 08:25 PM
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k590/leahtinker/Mobile%20Uploads/986705_zpsbmghnsdy.jpeg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/leahtinker/media/Mobile%20Uploads/986705_zpsbmghnsdy.jpeg.html)

arjan
02-14-2016, 09:46 PM
Remember the old manual shift days

The new 4Runners have that again (exept limited I think), our 2011 has the manual shifter.
Now if we only could get the manual transmission again...

Happypants
02-15-2016, 12:41 AM
Fight fight fight fight fight!!!!!

4skin
02-15-2016, 12:41 AM
178615

Happypants
02-15-2016, 12:52 AM
Fight fight fight fight fight fight fight fight fight fight fight!!!!!

Tinker
02-15-2016, 05:45 AM
Meh :) not worth it.

dirka dave
02-15-2016, 03:15 PM
The new 4Runners have that again (exept limited I think), our 2011 has the manual shifter.
Now if we only could get the manual transmission again...

No kidding.

Always broke
02-15-2016, 11:17 PM
Hey this is better than reality TV lol

Tinker
03-02-2016, 12:34 PM
It shit da bed again

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k590/leahtinker/Mobile%20Uploads/20160302_112749_zps1f725jml.jpg (http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/leahtinker/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160302_112749_zps1f725jml.jpg.html)

And replaced. Ordered from Wrenchmonkey.ca at my door $196. So if you get the 1850 an 1854 codes. Its a bad shift motor.

Pudge
03-02-2016, 01:02 PM
That's a good price for that. Glad you got'r all better now

Honky
03-02-2016, 02:09 PM
The best part is all the $$$$ you saved by doing it yourself. How long does it take t install the new one?

Happypants
03-02-2016, 02:12 PM
Too bad the shift motors arnt the same as the exploder ones,

Tinker
03-02-2016, 02:25 PM
Install took about 15 mins, 4 bolts 1 plug and the removal of 1 pin from the plug