View Full Version : oil delete plate

01-24-2014, 05:25 PM
We bought a 800 summit 2001 with shot engine. We put new engine in and going with premix. After research the oil delete concept I'm going to make my own block off plate for where oil pump is. I'm going with original oil reservoir drill and pipe thread a hole in the center of it for oil line from bottom of oil tank. Makes sense to do this so warmer oil can vent back to tank through upper line and lower line can feed fresh oil. Anyone done similar fix to a summit 800 engine or similar?

01-25-2014, 07:44 AM
I usually just pull the lines off and block them done a few older sleds that way

01-25-2014, 09:23 AM
Found pics of oil tank lower line going to block off plate. Lines that go to crankcase we blocked off with hose and machine screw-sealant threaded tightly into hose. On my old 440`s I just joined oil injection lines with piece of hose.

01-26-2014, 11:30 PM
Made plate out of 1/4" aluminum. Pipe tapped it. Tried it out and sled runs great. I plugged off injection lines. Anyone ever plugged injection ports differently?

01-28-2014, 10:21 PM
Does that line going in the plate have oil in it? Pretty sure that's what lubes the waterpump shaft? There should have been a small tube from the oil tank (closer to the top) that ran to a port on the back of the engine - I always thought it was a vent for the tank. Doesn't use much oil - when the tank is full that line fills up and is enough to gravity feed the shaft I believe.

Just noticed the line going into the case above it, maybe that one goes to the top of the oil tank? Fuel pump vacuum is off to the side isn't it?

01-29-2014, 08:28 AM
Yah, lower line goes to bottom of tank and vent line still attached to top of oil tank and crankcase. I initially plugged off ports on oil pump but pressure in oil pump pushed them off so I could not have that happening. So now waterpump bearings have lots of lube. Waterpump shaft is supported by the two bearing in crankcase and oil pump just spun off end of shaft. I put a black mark on oil tank to mark oil level and so far it has not dropped. As I understand the oil gravity fed into crankcase filling it up and then next morning I marked oil level on tank. Keeping tank full so oil can convect through crankcase. Also put 1/4" bolt through rewind with nyloc nut since they are notorious for inside clip to pop off if anyone wants tips on how to do that.

01-29-2014, 08:29 AM
Fuel pump line just stays where it is :)

01-29-2014, 01:33 PM
Thats what I figured. Waterpump/oilpump shaft doesnt need much oil thats why it was fed from top of reservoir. You could run the oil tank almost dry and what was left in the top hose was enough to lube it for a long time.

I sold my '01 800 Summit last fall so dont have to worry about that motor popping again :D

01-30-2014, 10:37 AM
Yah I heard of people adding just a small bottle to top line and completely block off bottom. I was just paranoid and did not mind extra weight. Plus tank support mpem control module. So did your summit "pop" more than once? Any idea why? Ours we bought really cheap cause bottom con rod bearing was shot and killed crank and cracked bottom of case so we put in new short block for $1800. Sled was mint otherwise. Its my GF's sled and she is having a tough time pulling it over when its cold lol. I bought a yamaha 2002 sx viper 700 triple and its still oil injection and am told the oil injection is very reliable and the triples go a long time. Its definitely heavier in front compared to twin summit 800. We have shovels wherever we go lol. If racing sleds use premixed fuel I don't see why we shouldn't. Less to go wrong. I think oil inj. is just for people that want to just get on and go... I found a lot of 800's that have gernaded internally. Some sledders even premix as low as 30:1. We figured 40:1 is fine.

01-30-2014, 01:49 PM
I never did find for sure why mine seized up and sold it after 2 rides on the rebuilt motor. It did it 3 km from the truck. I could have hurt a piston previously by sucking in some powder and it just got worse til the day it died. Wasnt pushing it, up to half throttle bursts til its warmed up. But it stuck 1 piston so bad it wouldnt turn over at all lol. After I rebuilt it I was running the injection oil as well as premix 100:1 just in case. For yours you could go 50:1 if you use a good racing oil (synthetic) but richer doesnt hurt. Just a little smokier.

Mine was always 2 hands to pull over cold too but usually fired on 2nd pull

01-31-2014, 04:08 PM
Man that really bites... thanks for the pointers!

01-31-2014, 04:31 PM
Man that really bites... thanks for the pointers!

A good water resistant membrane (frogskinz) on the intake is worthwhile, I had my lightweight hood on and sucked in some powder the season before it seized which could have been what started it all.

02-03-2014, 09:50 AM
Where do you buy this kind of membrane?

02-03-2014, 10:17 AM

You can buy it in bulk and make your own custom vents using ABS plastic. Not sure how well it works as venting on your hood/side panels - some guys say it doesn't move air through convection - heat rising, but is perfect for air intakes where there is a pressure differential.

or PartsCanada for complete vent kits, not sure if they sell in bulk