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Tunabomber
09-19-2013, 09:39 PM
So a theory question.

Do u think i could get buy for a couple months of pavement only driving.

If i were too use gr8 aloy rod cut to stud size for temporary high steer arm connection

I ask because funds are real low right now and i just cant afford the extra 130 bucks for 1/2 20 arp studs.

Im real close but wanna be real frugal cuz i know how things go with builds and how things just come up

Trailjunkie
09-19-2013, 09:50 PM
wish i could say . but i know about being broke and sometimes you have to get creative my friend to get by .

epic3
09-19-2013, 10:39 PM
I dont see why not. What do you think OEM uses. Grade 8 studs

Tunabomber
09-19-2013, 11:14 PM
Thinking if i take it easy and keep a torque wrench on me i could get away a little

epic3
09-19-2013, 11:54 PM
why not just get propper stud kit for it? It doesnt have to be ARP. Last time I bought a set I think it was 30 or 40 bucks with cones washers and nuts

homeboy
09-20-2013, 04:32 AM
oem studs or arp, nothing else. unless you are running keyed after market knuckles.

Tunabomber
09-20-2013, 08:00 AM
why not just get propper stud kit for it? It doesnt have to be ARP. Last time I bought a set I think it was 30 or 40 bucks with cones washers and nuts




Already have the gr8 rod and dont wanna waste any cash buying things twice

epic3
09-20-2013, 10:44 AM
I'm not sure if you can get the cones on their own tho. The factory studs have two thread pitches to em. Coarse for in the knuckle and fine for the nut

4skin
09-20-2013, 10:51 AM
You are going to be driving blondie and little dude around in it
Steering and brakes are not the places to try saving a few bucks
Maybe the all thread will be ok or it will fuck up your arms or knuckle
The studs have a shoulder that is larger dia than the threads
That's what the cones lock onto
So could wiggle around and loosen off
Resulting in loss of steering and everything kingpin out exiting stage left
Or right
So don't do it

The King Machine
09-20-2013, 12:17 PM
You are going to be driving blondie and little dude around in it
Steering and brakes are not the places to try saving a few bucks
Maybe the all thread will be ok or it will fuck up your arms or knuckle
The studs have a shoulder that is larger dia than the threads
That's what the cones lock onto
So could wiggle around and loosen off
Resulting in loss of steering and everything kingpin out exiting stage left
Or right
So don't do it

good advice

Tunabomber
09-20-2013, 01:35 PM
Crap. All good points


The arms are what im told designed to use wheel lug nuts

epic3
09-20-2013, 02:04 PM
those are the nuts tho not the studs. Like I said above tho the factory hardware isnt expensive

In The Zone
09-21-2013, 07:09 AM
If u use the rod be sure to chase the threads after u bevel, It is very easy to crossthread the knuckle hole, and a quality lug nut can be used but not ideal...different taper

4skin
09-21-2013, 09:13 AM
I actually don't know about the lug nut thing
What grade are lug nuts ???? 5 maybe seem pretty soft compared to a grade 8
And aren't proper knuckle studs course thread on knuckle
Side and fine on nut side?
:dontknow:

78bronco
09-21-2013, 11:03 AM
i hAVE lug nuts on the high steer on my power wagon havent losend off in 10 years and i have a spacer block

look at this way there is way more force on your wheel in a corner on the hwy at 110 kph then the high steer studs will ever see so lug nuts are perfectly fine

StinkFinger
09-21-2013, 12:10 PM
For what your going to do I wouldn't even bother with the arp studs just get some stock hardware and be done with it

zookiguy
09-22-2013, 05:24 PM
I have some ARP studs Ill be sending back monday. They are brand new never been used. Bought them for artec keyed arms but they need to be bolted down like homeboy said.

105 bucks and there yours. 10 studs with nuts.

Also have new spindle studs too.

.
pm me if interested