View Full Version : Ford clutch bleeding

06-22-2012, 04:38 PM
Ok to start with I'm not an idiot I've bleed alot of ford clutches and I know how long it takes and how much of a bitch it can be but this one has me stumped

Ok 2002 ford F250 I replaced the master and the slave , there's no bleeder on either instructions say to pump the piston on the slave by hand and watch for air bubbles in the resivour

Done that about 5 times now in the last 2 day clutch comes up and is great but if I leave the truck sit for a few hours then go to drive it again I have no clutch and I mean none at all

I'm lost there are no leaks in the system and all the parts are brand new any ideias wtf this could be I'm getting very frustrated with this one

Thanx in advance

06-22-2012, 05:50 PM
did you bench bleed the master before you put it in dood?

06-22-2012, 05:59 PM
Yea bench bled the whole system might halfto pull it out and do it again

06-22-2012, 06:54 PM
Haha have fun!! I don't miss my ford at all

06-22-2012, 06:55 PM
funny how one can be a bitch and others are no prob
weird no bleeders

06-22-2012, 08:12 PM
Remove the slave cylinder invert the cylinder so the fluid line is at the top be sure the master cylinder has enough fluid so the bottom will remain fluid covered throughout this procedure it helps to have an assistant, with the slave cylinder inverted slowly press the slave cylinder rod into the slave as far as it will go holding it there for several minutes then slowly release the rod until it is fully out and again wait a few minutes then repeat until you assistant tells you that there is no longer any air bubbles returning to the master cylinders reservoir. What it does is when you push on the rod it pushes the air up the line while waiting the air bubbles continue to head up towards the master cylinder then when you release the rod it pulls clear fluid deeper into the line. This procedure takes a lot of time but with patience it will work great.

06-24-2012, 03:56 AM
have you actually had the clutch line out of the truck and everything hooked up together on the bench ?

i had a similar experience on a 93 ranger, the clutch hose iteself has a bunch of weird bends in it and it trapped air in the line at the bends. i had to pull the line straight and then bleed it. this took me 2 days also to figure out

dirka dave
06-24-2012, 09:05 AM
Put hand over master cyl.

Smash with hammer.

Now you bleed.

Hope this helps.

06-24-2012, 11:35 AM
it will take probly 100+ slow pumps to do it till you get a nice full hard pedal

06-24-2012, 12:55 PM
Think I got er now I found it works good to get as pissed off as possible and do it , I've been a ford guy my whole life but this truck might force me to change makes, every week it's something new and it always halsto be a major repair

06-24-2012, 12:58 PM
It's cause of the person u got it from, lol, Dosent help he couldn't drive worth a shit,

06-26-2012, 08:00 PM
It's cause of the person u got it from, lol, Dosent help he couldn't drive worth a shit,

Yea no shit eh , I got a nasty clunk comming from the driveline somewhere , thinking it might be the tcase oh joy :mad:

06-26-2012, 09:04 PM
If its set up at all like an exploder, i fought for hours trying every conventional method , with no luck at all, then tried a method I read on an explorer forum and it works perfect now[36]
Under the dash where the pedal attatches to the master, you remove the clip holding the neutral safety switch so you can slide the switch back on the rod, then look way forward on the rod where it enters the mc and you will see a really small circlip that holds the mc plunger and rod in the bore. remove the circlip and SLOWLY and GENTLY back the rod and plunger assembly slightly backwards out of the bore ONLY ENOUGH TO ALLOW A SMALL AMONT OF FLUID AND THE AIR BUBBLES OUT. repeat two or three times untill no bubbles come out with the fluid, then re0install the circlip, neutral switch and presto- yer done..
Have done this on several trucks since my own and has worked every time.
Hope this helps.