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View Full Version : 6.0 ltr build returns


429orangepeel
12-29-2011, 06:34 PM
Well I have mocked up a few different styles for fenders. The are 8" wide so its tough to make them not look like a flat deck.Open to opinions This Jeep will be driven on the road lots therefore 8" wide and made from 10gauge for impact reasons.

Nutbar
12-29-2011, 06:40 PM
Good to see ya workin on it again bud.

429orangepeel
12-29-2011, 07:28 PM
I go in stages, lol. This time I will get all the sheet metal done.

64CJ6Willy
12-29-2011, 08:36 PM
Wouldn't change a thing, well minus inner trimming.

429orangepeel
12-30-2011, 07:35 AM
Ya there is still some trimmin to do. Personally I seem to prefer the squared off fender look. The front inners will be .080 aluminum and behind the front fender flare will be a vent made from round hole aluminum punch plate.

Always broke
12-30-2011, 08:29 AM
Looks good , maybe try a small flat section tapered parrellel to the ground to stop rocks from coming up and give it a little more rigidity plus makes a nice step for getting up on for multiple reasons..... But what the heck do I know? :)nice to see ya workin on it!!

Nutbar
12-30-2011, 08:34 AM
One suggestion for the frt fenders trim off a couple inches from the bottom of the hood and raise the fenders for more articulation clearance

429orangepeel
12-30-2011, 12:28 PM
One suggestion for the frt fenders trim off a couple inches from the bottom of the hood and raise the fenders for more articulation clearance
I was tossin that Idea around. If you look on the hood you will see the cut line. I dont want a ton of wheel to fender gap. Right now I have 9" inabetweena tire and fender. I was thinking of bump stops to limit up travell. The ride height is set for Kings with a 14"stroke. Installed height will be 27" eye to eye. Have you had to cut the hood on YJs with with link set up?

429orangepeel
12-30-2011, 05:50 PM
Looks good , maybe try a small flat section tapered parrellel to the ground to stop rocks from coming up and give it a little more rigidity plus makes a nice step for getting up on for multiple reasons..... But what the heck do I know? :)nice to see ya workin on it!!
I have bent some 1 3/4" to fit between the fenders for a step/slider. I had no choice the Boss needed a step to get in. They will be weld to the 3/16" SMF sliders. As far as the debris field coming off the tires, they are just to dam big to cover,

epic3
12-31-2011, 11:49 AM
Seein how your keepin em square with a big lip for strength reasons why not make the perimeter outta 1/16 wall square tube then just sheet em with 20 or 22 gauge. They would be plenty strong and lighter then 10 gauge

429orangepeel
01-01-2012, 06:33 AM
Great idea with the tubing but my l.e.d. signal lights require 1 1/4" for mounting purpose. I could probably find smaller lights but I allready have all my l.e.d. lites. Secondly I wanted to form the fenders to elliminate all the welding and grinding around the tube edge. The 10 ga is a little heavy but they will only way 21 lbs on the front each and 18 lbs each for the rear. What I do like about a tubing edge though is the fact that its easier on the tires when they rub. Im will keep everyones ideas on the chalk board witch is actually my CAD program that uses chalk and a cement floor for the screen lol. Its great to here some ideas.

64CJ6Willy
01-01-2012, 08:48 AM
If you recessesed the led's into 1-1/2" tubing (1/8 to 3/32 radius) then they would be tree-free if ya get my drift.
Your fender wall would need to be 1-3/4" wide to form around the tubing on the inside. Gives you strength, less weld /grind and a nice radius for wheel contact.
Altho you could go for 1-1/2" fender sides and use 1-1/4" inside and still recess them with some fancy welding/grinding.

Just thinkin outloud