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glopedawg
10-08-2011, 05:43 PM
So I have a question I hope some of you Toyota guys can help me out with. I have the 3.0L engine in my truck, and went to start it the other day and noticed it was idling extremely high, around 2200rpm-2500rpm. I didn't think too much of it and started to drive it down the road when I smelt hot coolant, so I'm knew right away my engine was pissing some out as I was driving.

Next thing it did was overheat a little bit, so I parked it and got it towed
home. I started my truck at home and it did the same thing, so I tried bleeding the air out of the system as the engine warmed up, while the rpms were still staying fairly high and not dropping down at all on idle which is abnormal. And afte the engine would warm up coolant starts to shoot out of my rad as it es extremely hot. My upper rad hose heats up but my lower ones does not.

This leads me to believe the thermostat is stuck shut, so I replaced it with a Toyota one from the dealership and installed it with the giggle valve at 12 o'clock, and my engine is still doing the same thing. It starts from cold at a abnormally high idle and will start to shoot hot coolant out of brad (really scary), instead of doing the usual of bubbling as all the air is escaping out. Is there any other things I should be looking at in my cooling system? I'm not too sure where to go from here. Any input would be greatly appreciated guys!

crazylike
10-08-2011, 05:54 PM
sounds to me like you may need a new rad sounds like there something blocking the water from ciculating, or worst case its a head gasket. have you done the head gasket?

SHITTY
10-08-2011, 06:08 PM
water pump?

glopedawg
10-08-2011, 06:27 PM
So I forgot to mention those things too. The head gasket was replaced 70k kms ago, and the heads were planed at a shop so I don't think it could be that, also the water pump was replaced when the head gasket was done. It doesn't seem to be making any sounds at all, and appears to be in good condition since it doesn't leak or anything.

I can't seem to think why my lower hose doesn't get hot at all since my thermostat has to be opening inside the water pump once it gets hot since it's brand new. Thanks for the suggestions though, much appreciated. I'm still doing a lot of reading on this problem and can't find anything yet.

crazylike
10-08-2011, 07:50 PM
i got a spare rad if ya wanted to swap yours out and see if its just plugged? to me if bottom hose not getting hot then the rads not circulating.

harvester_sorrow
10-08-2011, 08:35 PM
i got a spare rad if ya wanted to swap yours out and see if its just plugged? to me if bottom hose not getting hot then the rads not circulating.

sounds logical.

Punk in Drublic
10-08-2011, 08:39 PM
buddy put too much pepper in his as a trail fix, ended up plugging a bunch of things up. took a while to find then fix the problem.

glopedawg
10-09-2011, 08:55 AM
buddy put too much pepper in his as a trail fix, ended up plugging a bunch of things up. took a while to find then fix the problem.

Too much pepper in his rad? I've never heard of that before. I think my rad Isn't Clogged though, since when I take the lower rad hose off of the thermostat housing, it drains all the coolant out of the bottoms hose. Anyone else have any input? My truck has been down for 3 days and it's driving me crazy not knowin what the problem is.

crazylike
10-09-2011, 09:00 AM
try another thermostat maybe you got a bad one right from the box. bad rad cap?

hoser
10-09-2011, 09:19 AM
take the thermostat out and throw it in a pot of boiling water to test it

youngun
10-09-2011, 11:31 AM
take the thermostat out and throw it in a pot of boiling water to test it

He did that with his original one and it did open, i just told him you might as well put in a new one while you got it all apart, they are cheap enough.


Mystery [16]

glopedawg
10-09-2011, 12:10 PM
Yeah I dont think the thermostat is a problem anymore. Is there anywhere else in the cooling system that can be a bad place for air pockets to build up. Should I be bleeding it from the block maybe instead of through the stat housing and lower coolant line? And I'm not even putting on my rad cap when I fire the engine up. It's scary enough with the rad cap off, cause after a few minutes of idling at a high idle, hot coolant starts to spray from the rad.

crazylike
10-09-2011, 12:29 PM
i had an old fiero which had an issue with air lock. i had to jack the front of the fiero up in the air while filling it with water to get the air out might be worth a try.
:dontknow: :dontknow: :dontknow:

youngun
10-09-2011, 12:33 PM
piss in the rad and buy my 3.4 swap?

glopedawg
10-09-2011, 12:48 PM
Oh man you have no idea how much I'd love that engine in my truck. Just out of curiosity, what would you want for that? And Tyson, I don't think I'll be getting around to my ball joint spacers early this week like I wanted to, till I get this coolant problem fixed.

youngun
10-09-2011, 04:02 PM
I would sell it to ya for 1500 bucks, knock 100 bucks off it so you can be a baller.

Just let me know, im going to be working in the shop all week [36]

Toyquad
10-09-2011, 04:34 PM
for the high idle, coolant temp sensor or vaccum leak

with it running, can u see coolant flowing through the rad?

glopedawg
10-09-2011, 06:58 PM
$1500 you say? That will take a lot of shopping carts to collect and return to get that much. You do payment plans at all? Need any electrical work done? Haha and no I don't see the coolant circulating in the radiator at all before it overheats. Where is the coolant sensor, and how do you check them?

4skin
10-10-2011, 12:40 AM
easy check for a plugged rad
pull bottom hose off
cover bottom hose outlet with hand
now fill rad to top might need help to do it
pull hand away
water should gush out all at once
not a bit of a gush and a slower flow
and
use cold water to hard to keep your hand on it with hot:D

Toyquad
10-10-2011, 09:28 AM
if you cant see what flowing could be a bad water pump.

not sure where temp sensor is on the 3.0.

crazylike
10-10-2011, 11:28 AM
the temp sensor is on the front its the very left one. there is 3 sensors with wires. but according to the book this is not a symptom of one. i am starting to think bad water pump. i have the haynes manuel if ya want to have a read through it.

OOPS
10-10-2011, 11:49 AM
I agree with the bad water pump diagnosis, Ive had two fail in different vehicles over the years, both times the impeller either fell off the shaft or was so eaten away from corrosion it wasnt moving any water....do you get heat in the cab when this happens?

youngun
10-10-2011, 12:17 PM
maybe see if the water pump pulley has play in it or is loose? Those lordco pumps suck balls, they only last a year if that and they are all sloppy

levigardiner
10-10-2011, 12:29 PM
sounds like a water pump to me!...change out the timing belt while your in there

Toyquad
10-10-2011, 12:37 PM
i've never heard of a bad water pump causing high idle...............

glopedawg
10-10-2011, 01:35 PM
So I just finished working on the truck again and no good news. The water pump pulley and assembly seem to be in good condition and were replaced about a year ago by the previous owner. So I filled the rad up and disconnected the lower hose and the water drained out in no time, so I think my rad is fine.

When I went to fire it up after I topped the rad back up the truck did the usual of idling off around 2k rpm and slowly climbed up towards the 2.7k rpm and once the water started to bubble and shoot out of the rad, I decided to do something I havnt tried before. I put the rad cap on while water was shooting out a bit, and it kept on running, but shortly after my rpm started to go down slowly, and once my rpm dropped below 1000 I knew it wasn't good, and probably would have stalled out if I didn't shut it off. Also I had the heat cranked on, and it was blowing cold which isn't unusual, because I some how lost my heat sometime last winter. It was normal for it to blow cold air.

Could this problem have something to do with my heater core? Or does your coolant normally circulate through there, or is there some kind of by-pass that is opened up once you switch on the heat? I'm stumped, I've never had coolant related issues before. Any thoughts...

youngun
10-10-2011, 01:35 PM
The water pump isn't the idling probably, but it could be the overheating in 3 minutes probably since the thermostat has been ruled out

youngun
10-10-2011, 01:37 PM
could have a air lock at the firewall where the heater core hoses go in. I put a small air bleeder thing in the hose there, helps get rid of vapour locks

kidbatz
10-10-2011, 01:46 PM
id pull the timing cover and check that the belt is routed across the water pump pulley correctly then replace the water pump if it all looks good. also raise the front of the truck up really high and thoroughly burp all of the air out till your sure its not air locked.

4skin
10-10-2011, 02:49 PM
check and see if the diverter valve for the heater is functioning
could explain the air lock if it isnt

glopedawg
10-11-2011, 10:37 AM
i've never heard of a bad water pump causing high idle...............

Well I've done some more asking around at a few shops, and the idle could possible be due to the coolant temp sensor isn't getting any coolant because there is no flow to it. So I'm starting to believe that this is a water pump problem, not necessarily a air pocket trapped somewhere in my coolant system. I think I'm going to have to get my water pump replaced, Which most shops are quoting 5-5.5 hours labour. Damn, I was hoping this would all be just a thermostat problem or something, but seems to be a little worse. Thanks for all the input guys!

glopedawg
10-11-2011, 11:00 AM
Also, as a side note the Toyota dealership quoted me at $103 an hour. Now aren't most shops in or around town $80-$90? What is up with those money grabbers of a dealership?

youngun
10-11-2011, 12:05 PM
Kelowna Toyota = http://www.funinbc.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111538&highlight=kelowna+toyota

crazylike
10-11-2011, 12:35 PM
do not go to kelowna toyota pay extra to take it to penticton or any other shop around.... kelowna stealership will rob your ass or try to PLEASE HEAD MY WARNING......

levigardiner
10-11-2011, 02:24 PM
a water pump is pretty simple to do yourself, check out the hyanes manual, i did mine in a couple hours

glopedawg
10-11-2011, 05:49 PM
Yeah I heard about that Kelowna Toyota horror story. And is that bolt on your what is your idler arm rubbing on? That's the same problem I have to hey young gun?

And I didn't want to try the water pump myself, because I don't have the tools to pull pulleys off, and didn't want to mess with the timing and timing belt. So instead I took it to a shop up the road and am getting a new timing belt and pump put in. And I just found out the pump wasnt the problem but am replacing it anyways. The guy at the shop thinks my rad is clogged so I got it sent to a rad shop and am waiting to hear back from them.

crazylike
10-11-2011, 06:48 PM
the bolt is on the relay rod and its catching on the metal bump stop for the pitman arm

youngun
10-11-2011, 08:47 PM
Yeah I heard about that Kelowna Toyota horror story. And is that bolt on your what is your idler arm rubbing on? That's the same problem I have to hey young gun?

Yup, same thing that happened to barry. Kelowna toyota [16]

glopedawg
10-12-2011, 11:18 AM
the bolt is on the relay rod and its catching on the metal bump stop for the pitman arm

Have you fixed this problem yet? And why didn't It do it before?

youngun
10-12-2011, 12:27 PM
I think toyota fixed it for him after 2 or 3 visits. They kept saying it needed a wheel alinement overtime you talked to anyone there....

All they had to do was adjust the bolt going threw, its like a piece of threaded rod and they had to much threads sticking out on one side. Would have been a 5 minute fix but they were to stupid to figure that out...

Pegleg
10-12-2011, 01:50 PM
how old is the timing belt????do it when ya do your water pump...just my 2 cents

crazylike
10-12-2011, 02:33 PM
as younggun said it was just a matter of turning the threaded rod backwards a bit. they (kelowna toyota) allow the girl who answers the phone to diagnose the vehicle issues without looking at it as she must be a psychic..... lol

glopedawg
10-12-2011, 03:37 PM
as younggun said it was just a matter of turning the threaded rod backwards a bit. they (kelowna toyota) allow the girl who answers the phone to diagnose the vehicle issues without looking at it as she must be a psychic..... lol

She may not be a phychic, but that Whitney girl working there is pretty cute. And no I havnt talked to anyone there yet about the issue, but I will get it fixed there. And I did replace my water pump, timing belt and stat. Also got my rad cleaned out and is now at 90% flow, which all seemed to fix my problem. I'm going to pick up the truck now, not looking forward to the bill, but at least I'll have my truck back.

youngun
10-12-2011, 03:39 PM
so the rad just clogged itself over night? seems weird

hoser
10-12-2011, 04:41 PM
just curious what a shop charges for what u had done??

TWOZEROFOUR
10-12-2011, 07:27 PM
just curious what a shop charges for what u had done??

guesn 1400 ish

glopedawg
10-13-2011, 01:03 AM
guesn 1400 ish

$950, including a new water pump, timing belt, getting my rad cleaned out at a radiator shop, and all parts installed with about 6 hours labour. Not too bad, if I had the time I would have done it myself for a lot cheaper.

TWOZEROFOUR
10-13-2011, 09:13 AM
$950, including a new water pump, timing belt, getting my rad cleaned out at a radiator shop, and all parts installed with about 6 hours labour. Not too bad, if I had the time I would have done it myself for a lot cheaper.

yep thats decent