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View Full Version : 96 Ford brake pad re&re pointers


godtool
12-01-2010, 08:07 AM
Buddy is bringing his 96 Ford 3/4 ton or 1 ton 4x4 over on Friday to change the front pads. It has a straight axle. Appears one front calliper got its pistons so far extended it started leaking. He said now he needs to pump brakes for even rear brakes to work. I know the rotors will need to be turned. Do the rotors come off like my 03 Silverado or do you need to pull the hub off too? Any special precautions I should know about before I try to bleed his brakes? I'm not charging him for labour since $$ is really tight, plus hes a new buddy of mine I met that needs to be educated on the necesasary things about taking care of a lifted 4x4...:D He is this insane but smart guy thaty moved up to McCleese lake from the coast. He bought 40 acres and is currently building a cord cabin:confused0006: I sold him a bunch of wood to build it and then lent him my concrete mixer and a bunch of chimney parts when I saw what he was up against... He is insane for building a cabin in the winter but truly he know what he doing.

mus-Tard
12-01-2010, 11:18 AM
with the D60 there are 2 bolts that hold on the caliper. 1/2 or 9/16th l think. then pry the caliper off.
the 2 that hold on the mounting bracket. 7/8th l think.

as for the rotor, you need to take the locking hub off, and then the wheel bearings. lock nut is the same for the 60 as is the 50. the 44HD is smaller.

then you can pry the rotor and hub off together. there is a seal that may make it difficult.

then separate the rotor from the hub some how.

godtool
12-02-2010, 07:39 AM
As for the wheelbearing nuts, use the same socket used for say a gm 14 bolt rear end??

4skin
12-02-2010, 09:50 AM
nope front nuts are round with notches
and dhech with whoevers turning rotors should not have to take rotors of hub like rebel said just sayin

In The Zone
12-02-2010, 06:08 PM
rotors will come off with out hub removal...... It is a d60

godtool
12-03-2010, 08:32 AM
Thanks![cheers] I have two wheelbearing sockets, one fits my 14 ff rear axle and a 2nd socket for D44 and Corp 10 bolt. If I was re-packing the bearings on this Ford Front D60 do I need to buy a 3rd socket?? Will the ff socket work on a 1981 chev front dana 60?

Thanks for all the tips... and if anyone here lives locally within a hour or two, do you have spare rotors or callipers?? Cheaper to buy new I hear for rotors vs 25 bucks for turning each plus fuel to drive into town... 250-397-2652

radman
12-03-2010, 05:47 PM
i have the socket u require if u dont have the rite one, i took the rotor off and took it in and was told to leave the hub on next time. and if the pistons have gone out that far the rotors are probally past there service life. ill bring the socket into town so its here if u need it.

mus-Tard
12-03-2010, 06:32 PM
KD tools 3246
http://www.automotivetoolsonline.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/9_25_2007_14_50_59.jpg&maxx=300&maxy=0

Troy
12-03-2010, 07:04 PM
rotors will come off with out hub removal...... It is a d60

???:confused:

unless its a superduty dana 60 then you would have to take the spindle nuts off, then take the hub off the spindle , then pound the studs out to seperate rotor from wheel hub

godtool
12-04-2010, 09:39 AM
Nightmare job its been!! Ice caked everywhere and taking too darn long! Had to remove nuts and seperate hub. Glad I had a press for the studs and a air hammer to seperate rotor and hub. We got new rotors and hubs on last night and then the pistons would not move back in with a c-clamp. Tried to release bleeder screw but it was rusted in. Going to try some heat on it today after 12 noon. Release brake line fitting on calliper but pistons would still not move back, even one at a time!!:mad: I thought of welding a nut on my c-clamp and use the air gun. Callipers are $45+ each but my freind has zero $$. I might end up buying a pair for him and he can pay me back. He also needs a new front drive shaft. U-joint 2nd from t-case in cv is shot. Slip yoke is either shot but looks like 1" of splines on stub don't even go into slip yoke. Its 21.25" weld to weld. Anyone have a used ds for sale or trade or to donate?? I was thinking 23" weld to weld. Yoke on t-case, not a flange.

Truck is a F250 HD (HD pretty sure) XLT 7.3 diesel standard. Brake shoes he brought were wrong app. We took them back to Napa and ended up getting pads for a 94 front axle!!

Bought 2 wheel bearing lock nuts. One was kinda stupid cuz nut slipped past the 4 nubs in the socket and then socket just spun. @nd socket is like the one radman pictures above.

I'll check my email before noon today for any pointers. I took lots of pics and they are still loading so got to leave by 9 am so pics may not be loaded. Any suggestions you can phone me or text me at 250-706-0655.:)

85chevy
12-04-2010, 10:08 AM
Sounds like someone has been in there before or something got changed if the parts store has to change years to get the right pads seems weird

godtool
12-04-2010, 10:16 AM
The truck has 8" springs in it! Its a nice project someone built years back...

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040752002.jpg

godtool
12-04-2010, 01:27 PM
More pics:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040802000.jpg


http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040805000.jpg


http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040758002.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040752003.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040752001.jpg

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1012040756002.jpg

More to come to help ID this thing. Did I say the front end diff to hubs is from a 94 F350??

godtool
12-05-2010, 08:31 AM
Job all done, buddy left last night. Stops on a dime now but at least he had a month of learning how to slow down with gearing being a 5 speed with 4:10's. He would like to trade it for a small jeep or other smaller 4x4 and a couple horses.

Radman the nut picture here I bought and was too small in dia yet the part # and brand was different and did not have the dips in it... It was a lot bigger than the f150 socket I have.

mus-Tard
12-05-2010, 12:57 PM
are you sure it wasn't pn 2467 you got? thats the pn for my dana 44 socket.
for my 60, part number 3246.
they are exactly the same 'cept for diameter.


l ended uo buyin both ages ago too

radman
12-06-2010, 05:05 PM
rebel posted the pic of the d44 socket. i have that one too, but the one for the d50/60 that i have goes over the nut like a normal socket where the d44 has to incert past the nut to disengage the rachet like locking teath.
but it sounds like you figured it out. its like they keped the calipers from 1994 and they rusted solid.

mus-Tard
12-06-2010, 05:08 PM
had a 44 front end out of a 90
now have a 60 front end out of a 95.
only differance is one is bigger.

dont know what year your talking about with a 60 socket that fits like a regular socket

godtool
12-08-2010, 08:28 AM
The socket I used was just like the F150 nut on my 1990 Ford 4x4, except this one has bigger diameter.... I used a napa wheelbearing tool socket, napa ultra pro 62808.

radman
12-13-2010, 01:26 PM
the ultra pro 62808 is the one i have that fits like a regular socket. it still has the 4 fingers to engage the nut, but unlike the k-d one i have for the d44 the fingers are inside the socket. makes it more stable when tightening the lock nut. i belive the nuts are the same from 1978? through to the super duty when they changed to the unit bearings