View Full Version : 1 piece rear driveshaft

08-19-2010, 10:15 PM
My carrier bearing on my 2 piece shaft is pretty bad these days and instead of replacing it with another I would really like to go to a full 1 piece shaft.

Considering my current 2 piece is half custom (PO) and uses a wierd u-joint that has two different sized and styles of cups/snap rings. Not to mention each one of those stupid u-joints costs $60 from Pat's driveline. I was thinking a new 1 piece shaft would be a better choice.

I remember hearing about a guy who had a shop make him a 1 piece shaft using big chevy u-joints and such. Seemed like a good idea. Bigger u-joints that are easier to get and cheaper, sounds good no?

Im hoping to have enough $$ together to make it happen later this year.. well that or 63" chevies.

anyways, what would you guys do in this situation?

08-22-2010, 10:32 AM
I got my old 2 piece with a good steady bearing if ya want it!

or if you put in dual cases, a stock 2 gen 4runner rear driveshaft is perfect fit;)

Or spend 3-500 at Pats and get a sweet new driveshaft made!

08-22-2010, 05:15 PM
Hmm, how muchy you wanty?

I really don't wanna polish the 2 piece turd but if the price is right a 1 piece shaft can wait.

Thanks! :)

08-22-2010, 11:15 PM
you mean youd give me money? haha..

case of Moosehead would be just fine..

08-24-2010, 03:14 PM
haha, that sounds like a better option. As long as its in good shape heh

08-24-2010, 08:58 PM
when the steady bearin on my yota went, was about $300 to get a 1 piece made from pat's. but that was a few years ago jay so dunno what they be chargin now

08-25-2010, 02:28 AM
Thats not that bad. What kinda shaft did you get (LOL!)? Stock style u-joints?

Always broke
08-25-2010, 08:33 AM
Pats is ok but I would try Coast or Drive Products in Port Kells if you go to Drive products ask for Paul Nash and tell him Todd sent you FIBC get a special rate there.

08-25-2010, 07:35 PM
Cool! Thanks :)

09-22-2010, 06:52 PM
you mean youd give me money? haha..

case of Moosehead would be just fine..

Still got that 2 piece laying around??

Been super busy with school lately, forgot about this thread :ballsmack The good ol carrier bearing has got about an inch of play in it now, and my rear u-joint is not happy, thinking its causing the weird hopping/vibration I get at 65-75 km/h intermittently...

10-01-2010, 02:04 PM
you mean youd give me money? haha..

case of Moosehead would be just fine..

Thanks for the DS!

Unfortunatly its more than a foot too short :(

Guess im in the market again

10-01-2010, 06:22 PM
Pats is ok but I would try Coast or Drive Products in Port Kells if you go to Drive products ask for Paul Nash and tell him Todd sent you FIBC get a special rate there.

Called Coast, Driveline guy went home, gotta call back tomorrow.

drive products says they only do like Heavy duty stuff, do they do automotive??

Called Pats, they told me they couldnt make me a custom shaft, that they would only lengthen a stock toyota shaft... wtf? Says for a brand new toyota shaft would run me $900.

Gotta check to see if that used d-shaft is the same bolt pattern. Perhaps I could get pats to lengthen that. Said a lengthening would run about $300.

10-02-2010, 03:55 PM
So I think im just going to buy a $40 4runner shaft and get that lengthend.

Pats said it would be about $300.

Coast said I gotta call back on monday to talk to Ken.

Cant seem to get somebody on the phone at Drive products either. Guess Im going to go with either pats or Coast. Hoping to be able to drop it off on monday at wherever, my shaft is getting baaad haha!

10-04-2010, 03:48 PM
Called Coast today, spoke to the driveline guy. Was super nice and helpfull (unlike pats haha!)

Says it should run me $300-350 to lengthen my 4runner drive shaft 18" to 63" fully collapsed and that would include going to larger diameter tubing if needed and balancing.

what do you guys think?

Im thinking its not bad, going to drop it off tomorrow after class unless somebody tells me not too :D

10-04-2010, 08:08 PM
too bad about pats, they used to be good.
$300 is about what i paid so would think it's reasonable

10-04-2010, 10:03 PM
try abby spring too. john the owner there is really good to deal with and i've found his prices to be the best.

10-05-2010, 05:01 PM
So I went up to Coast powertrain today. Talked to Ken for like an hour or so.

He told me that It was going to run about $325 to lengthen, retube with 3.5" tubing and balance my 4runner shaft.

Or he could make a new one with spicer ends and chevy 1/2 ton u joints and tubed to 3/4 ton equivalent tubing for $450 plus tax.
He did say he was a little worried about how long it had to be (67.5" flange to flange when fully drooped).

said that he has to find out if he can get a spline section with a larger contact area because I will be driving it on the hwy every day.

Currently waiting for a call back tonight or tomorrow at some point.

what do you guys think??

I was a little surprized that from driving position to full droop the 2 piece shaft only exposed another .5" of slip yoke..

10-16-2010, 05:04 PM
Installed my new shaft yesterday.

Sure is nice and tight now! ITs so nice hitting the throttle and there is an instant response from the drivetrain. Before it had a bit of a dead spot haha!

Ken said the shaft has 6" of slip yoke, so I should be okay for when I throw my 63" chevies in

10-18-2010, 05:47 PM
So after getting it on the hwy to school today I noticed a pretty good vibration. Almost like you are driving on rumble strips. I can feel it through the shifter pretty good.

according to my speedo (which does read fast) at 110km/h I can feel a hint of vibration in the shifter, at 120km/h the whole truck shudders and it feels like you are hitting rumble strips.

So I did some research and some measuring and heres what i came up with.

The diff flange/ driveshaft angle is nearly 0 degrees, while the transmission flange does have some angle to it ( will get a number when I get my hands on an angle finder)

I measured from the bottom of each flange and the top of each flange.

I came up with:

Bottom to bottom = 67 6/16"
top to top = right about 67 9/16"

So about 3/16" of an inch difference.

According to 4crawlers driveline page*** you want about 1/16" to 1/8" of an inch longer of a bottom to bottom length in relation to the top to top length.

Okay so Im 4/16" too long on the top.

To remedy this I would get some rear axle shims right??

Going to call Coast powertrain tomorrow and see what Ken thinks.
He said I might have some vibration issues above 140km/h due to how long the shaft is, but I didnt think Id be having an issue at 120km/h.


10-18-2010, 06:45 PM
I would have put the CV (double cardan joint) out of a front Toyota shaft in the rear. Then point the rear diff directly at the t-case. But then again, I built my rear drive shaft out of 2.5" sch 40.

Also, make sure your u-joints are phased correctly. Meaning the ears match each other at each end.

10-19-2010, 08:06 AM
i couldnt afford to get a cv joint put on right now. And my new shaft uses spicer ends with chevy u joints

But having that kinda difference in the u joint angles would cause vibrations correct??

10-21-2010, 03:13 PM
so kinda an update:

Spent a few hours at Coast yesterday, they were having a real tough time figuring out what the problem is.

They think the shaft might be too heavy so they are currently making another "trial" shaft with lighter tubing a lighter slip yoke for me to try tomorrow morning.

If that helps the vibration at all Ken said he would want to add a CV joint to it and that should eliminate all problems.

If it still doesnt help, they think my transfercase has a little too much play at the end and I would have to go back to my 2 piece shaft (they would weld my steady bearing bracket back in).

They showed me some of the calculations that they make to find out the critical RPMs for the shafts, and mine being 3" longer then all the other toyota conversions they have done is just too long. If my driveline was 3" shorter it would probably be fine. The critical RPM goes up quite a bit when its 3" shorter.


10-22-2010, 02:49 PM
So the new shaft didnt work either.

Going back to the 2 piece shaft >_<

They will weld my steady bearing bracket back in and they are replacing the steady bearing on my old shaft, along with changing the rear flange to the chevy spicer end to get rid of the funky conversion u joint.

Im really hoping that the old bearing was not eating up any vibrations that the solid driveshaft let me feel..

this sucks!

10-25-2010, 09:39 PM
Finally got the 2 piece back in..

still got a minor vibration on the stands, can't really feel it while driving..

They also mentioned that my rear end makes weird swooshing noises at speed?? rear 3rd has less then like 30,000 on it and was rebuild by ryan at disturbed using high quality bearings and factory 4.88 third.

thinking I might swap the spare open 4.88 I got laying around and see if the vibrations to stop. I would also like to hear this noise... sounds pretty weird

dirka dave
10-26-2010, 06:27 AM
Sounds like a lot of fucking around.

Hope you solve the problems.

11-03-2010, 09:19 PM
Nope. Still have the vibrations.

Driving it everyday, don't have much time to look at it. When I get a free day I will swap in my spare 4.88 diff and see if my vibrations lessen or go away. If not I guess I got other issues.

If so I guess its time to get the rear diff rebuild, again.