View Full Version : ball joint spacers

03-01-2010, 03:12 PM
just curious if anyone has ever used them, i know they arnt a great way to lift something but its not a hardcore 4x4 i just wanna put a little bigger tire on, so what are the pros and cons? they seem a bit sketchy to me but ive never had anythg to do with them, any input appreciated,

[cheers] oh and its a 90 4runner

03-01-2010, 03:38 PM
a runner will clear 33's with some clearancing so why run a bj spacer?

03-01-2010, 03:46 PM
a runner will clear 33's with some clearancing so why run a bj spacer?

well when i do go out and wheel it a bit i want to avoid eating my fenders i cant imagine there would be all that much room stock with 33's, am i wrong? [cheers]

03-01-2010, 07:12 PM
i knew one guy that ren them and said he hasnt had a problem yet.

im sure he has by now.

get out the sawzall, draw some lines and do some cutting, your tires will clear after.

or solid axle it.

03-01-2010, 10:33 PM
as much as i hate them id rather cut it
a body eeeeeeeeeeerrrrrrr lift dam i said it[1b]
around a hundred loonies
safer than ball joint spacers or the bolts holdn
the spacer seen the bolts almost sheared off
most reputable alignment shops wont touch it
due to liability isues
JUST MY OPINION[36] [36] [36] [36]

03-01-2010, 10:46 PM
bj spacers are cheap and effective way to lift an ifs truck... i've had bj spacers in my unit for about a year now and no issues..

they are for sale now by the way... msg me for details

when i first put em in



03-01-2010, 11:38 PM
been runnin them for 2 years.. They are friggen sweet!

Best cheapest way to get a little lift and more travel. Throw on a body lift and you're sittin better then a bracket lift.

Never had a problem getting it aligned.. Never seen one fail either. Infact I got another set to go into the 4runner :)

In The Zone
03-02-2010, 09:31 AM
I would not run em basic geometry will tell you why..... increased stress load and decreased shear resistance especially with wheel spacers..... LOL

just my.02

03-02-2010, 05:17 PM
Err... Okay. :)

Ive been running 3.5" backspaced wheels the entire time. The only thing that does is wear the shit outa the front end, TRE, idler arms etc. etc.

There are hundreds of people running the 1.5" balljoint spacers, I got mine from www.sdori.com (http://www.sdori.com) Go check him out. He designed the first commercial set that went on the market a few years back.

03-02-2010, 07:18 PM
seem to be doing me fine, 33x12.5's fit perfectly even on factory yota rims. Better than cranked torsion bars ewwwww. that works but rides like ass and flexes like a shopping cart. If you just want abit more tire you can't go wrong. Just make sure to have selectable hubs. its alittle nicer on the cv's to run highway speeds unlocked.

03-02-2010, 11:19 PM
:confused0006: i guess theyd be ok on a pavement princess i wouldnt run them
you have 4 3/8 bolts 2 -2 1/2 inches long in shear
with 3400 or so pounds static trying to cut them off
take one of your bolts and cut it with a pair of bolt cuters
or a cold chisel and hammer lot closser to same stresses
you might reconsider useing them

03-03-2010, 11:47 AM
Design and construction: The spacers were designed and engineered using modern computer aided design (CAD) methods. The suspension geometry was analyzed to find the limits of travel. The spacer was designed based on the ball joint mounting constraints in Solidworks. Materials where analyzed using finite element analysis (FEA) in Cosmosworks and a final material and design was selected. Each spacer is made from 6061 T6 aircraft grade aluminum on computerized numerically controlled (CNC) milling machinery. Under FEA, one spacer was able to hold over 112,000kg (300,000lb). Exact geometric dimensioning and tolerance data is proprietary to SDORI.
Impacts on durability: The spacer itself is many times stronger than necessary. The hardware used is metric automotive quality and consists of the following:
(8) class 12.9 capscrews
(8) class 10.9 nuts
(8) class 8.8 nylock nuts (used only to prevent loosening and keep moisture out of the threads to ease disassembly in the future)
(16) Flat washers are used on both fastening surfaces to diffuse load.
Therefore, SDORI, sees no decrease in durability of the vehicle suspension or decrease in load bearing capacity. In fact, the added suspension travel improves the suspension’s ability to absorb impact.

My truck ain't no pavement pricess (even tho I DD It), I wouldnt for a moment reconsider using them. I worry more about the grade 3 bolts in my body lift kit! :D Time up upgrade

03-03-2010, 01:06 PM
I would not run em basic geometry will tell you why..... increased stress load and decreased shear resistance especially with wheel spacers..... LOL

just my.02

I tend to agree with this, however...
It's hard to argue with real evidence - guys are running them for years and reporting no major issues :dontknow: .

03-03-2010, 05:58 PM
I tend to agree with this, however...
It's hard to argue with real evidence - guys are running them for years and reporting no major issues :dontknow: .

That's what I think also. Yotatech & other forums have huge memberships, if problems occur they usually come to light on those forums.
Never seen anything bad about them. It actually keeps the top A-arm nice and flat (torsion bar is attached to that one), which makes for a softer ride.

03-03-2010, 06:05 PM
I researched them alot and have wheeled stockish ifs hard for years.
Like cranking up a torsion bar it will eat idler arms and more expensive steering pumps.

search on yotatech everyone has them there,

basically all you need to know is dont lift over 1" and do it for travel not lift. (uptravel only, it decreases droop 1")

if you want the lift just crank up your torsions an inch for free imo

03-03-2010, 06:05 PM
and what he said before me softer ride!

03-03-2010, 06:20 PM
Just having the added down travel is worth it. Removing the sway bar at the same time yeilds a very smooth ride. Yeah it leans... alot but whatever.

I found the ball joint spacers on yotatech.com when Frank (owner sdori.com) was first comming out with them. After a few months everyone had them!! So many people run them and not one instance of one breaking. I can think of more problems with SAS leaf hangers cracking the frame..

any kinda lift on the ifs trucks without a diff drop (and steering drop) will eventually ruin the front end. Big tires will speed it up.

Keep the balljoints full of grease, make sure the tie rod boots dont rip (that happend to me pretty quick, so much for my moog parts!), if they do replace them asap.

And get an idler arm brace! It will prevent it from bending but you will still go through idler arm bushings everytime you wheel (or at least I did). I have been replacing them from the dealer every few months at a cost of $10 a pop. But that gets old quick, im ordering a Napa brand (mcquay norris) thats actually a big thicker then stock, and getting a set of Brass bushings from www.sdori.com (http://www.sdori.com). That with my downey brace should prevent the idler from going bad.. at least I hope!

03-04-2010, 10:04 PM
thanks alot for all the input guys, its much apreciated [cheers]

03-06-2010, 01:11 AM
:sad from personel experiance with balljoint spacers i would not use them
1965 mustang 3/4 inch spacer top balljoint compresiontype
same as toyota a manufactured kit by shelby engeneering
the grade 8 bolts sheared off causing a crash
and yes they were torqed to spec
hit a pot hole on hope princeton hw
thank the speed gods for roll cages
3years and lotsa $ done cause of 4 bucks inbolts
saved motor and trans rest was junk:mad: :mad:
and hey bet them toyota gas pedals were computer designed[15] [15] [15]

03-06-2010, 06:18 PM
Must be a ford thing ;)

I'll stick with my spacers