PDA

View Full Version : Jimmy Jeepster Project!


godtool
02-14-2010, 08:38 AM
Finally found a jeep body for my 81 Jimmy frame. This 81 CJ8 Scramblers wheelbase is 103.5" and my Jimmy frame 106.5". Heres pics of the CJ8. Building a home made sandblaster to blast it before primering. Also will start disaseembling my rusted out Jimmy this week... Jimmy frame has 4" lift, dana 60, 14 bolt with locker, 38" tsl swampers, homemade steering frame brace kit. I'll put in cross-over steering. Hope to have it done by summer! Thats my fantasy plan!

hood

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1981%20Scrambler%20Project/scramblerhoodfeb1310-1.jpg

fenders, grill

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1981%20Scrambler%20Project/scramblerpartsfeb1310.jpg

tub

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h213/godtool/1981%20Scrambler%20Project/scramblerrearFeb1310.jpg

FINGERS
02-14-2010, 08:49 AM
you just buy that thing/
thought i saw it fer sale?

SrPaul
02-14-2010, 11:29 PM
looks like a great project. can't wait to see the results.. :) looks a little frosty in the pictures. we bit cold eh! lol

epic3
02-15-2010, 10:11 AM
Very cool but dont sand blast it you'll regret it

mista fitz
02-15-2010, 12:50 PM
YEAH... sweet project.. good luck!

godtool
02-16-2010, 09:39 AM
YAH IT WAS FOR SALE ON CRAIGSLIST. jumped on it, made him an offer I picked it up on Monday.

Rather sandblasting what do you suggest? I was just going to sandblast the rusty areas. There is seams full of rust and we figured cut out those sections and mig in new metal. Also Lordco sells some goo you can use to dissolve rust?? Asa for migging in patches, do you weld on both sides of panel? I guess primer it right away too. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would not sand blast any of the good painted areas;) I've done a wee bit of bodywork in the past. Bought a haynes bodywork book, still wrapped in plastic. Maybe someone here wants to trade autobody work for what I do well??

This my low budget 4x4 lol.

85chevy
02-16-2010, 10:04 AM
If ur going to sand blast it u need baking soda because sand is to harsh and will actually warp the medal and makes it thinner. Baking soda just removes the paint and doesn't harm the metal. They can hot tank it to strip it but then usually u get spots that u can't clean the hot tanking product out and get problems later.

epic3
02-16-2010, 10:48 AM
Sand blasting will warp your panels. Media blasting is OK it requires less pressure with an equally abrasive material because its lighter. Aside from the warpage of your panels you will also get sand everywhere that will ruin your paint job. It is virtually impossible to get all the sand remains out when your done blasting. It hides everywhere.
Media blasting can be done in rented booths the media used is much lighter then the silica used in sand blasting so its easier to cleanup the leftovers and much healthier as you cant get silicosis from walnut shells or baking soda.
But there is plenty of chemical alternatives as well that are better suited to spot cleaning if your not doing the whole shell.
If striping the whole shell isn't needed, then don't do it, the original paint (if it is still the original paint)will work as a good base to seal prime and paint off of.

Spedley
02-16-2010, 11:17 AM
YAH IT WAS FOR SALE ON CRAIGSLIST. jumped on it, made him an offer I picked it up on Monday.

Rather sandblasting what do you suggest? I was just going to sandblast the rusty areas. There is seams full of rust and we figured cut out those sections and mig in new metal. Also Lordco sells some goo you can use to dissolve rust?? Asa for migging in patches, do you weld on both sides of panel? I guess primer it right away too. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I would not sand blast any of the good painted areas;) I've done a wee bit of bodywork in the past. Bought a haynes bodywork book, still wrapped in plastic. Maybe someone here wants to trade autobody work for what I do well??

This my low budget 4x4 lol.


1st... Throw away that Haynes bodywork manual. Last one I looked at said to use some household door screen over the rust holes and bondo that. Wow.

2nd... You can sandblast the steel, but make sure you and the sandblaster know whats going on, its very easy to warp sheetmetal, and with soooooo much flat surface on a heep body, it wont take much to warp it.

3rd... Only weld one side of the patch. If you weld it correctly, the weld will penetrate thru. Use only spot welds too, jumping around your patch, making sure not to overheat and warp the panel. This is waaaaaaay too easy to do. No more than 1/2" long stitches. I generally use oxy/acetylene for welding sheetmetal... Takes waaaaaaay longer, but it makes for a better joint thats easier to work with.

4th... If I was going to fix the seams that were full of rust, I think I would cut out the area, and replace the seam with a fresh piece of steel with no seam. The seam is the main reason for the rust there... Moisture and dirt and mungus gets trapped in there, and thats where the rust starts. Remove the seam, weld solid.

5th... That goo your talkin about prolly wont dissolve rust, prolly encapsulate it. Theres a product called POR 15. Supposed to be the shizznit. It covers the rust, seals it and chemically changes it so it cant continue. Its pretty expensive, but it does work well.


Dont be afraid of doing the work yourself, but educating yourself on the correct ways of doing it will make for a muuuuuch better end product and it will last much longer.

Spedley
02-16-2010, 11:19 AM
Sand blasting will warp your panels. Media blasting is OK it requires less pressure with an equally abrasive material because its lighter. Aside from the warpage of your panels you will also get sand everywhere that will ruin your paint job. It is virtually impossible to get all the sand remains out when your done blasting. It hides everywhere.
Media blasting can be done in rented booths the media used is much lighter then the silica used in sand blasting so its easier to cleanup the leftovers and much healthier as you cant get silicosis from walnut shells or baking soda.
But there is plenty of chemical alternatives as well that are better suited to spot cleaning if your not doing the whole shell.
If striping the whole shell isn't needed, then don't do it, the original paint (if it is still the original paint)will work as a good base to seal prime and paint off of.

Read my post above, and this one... Good info.

theborges
02-16-2010, 08:13 PM
looks like it will be a good build. and ill agree media blast dont sand blast

godtool
02-17-2010, 08:12 AM
Thanks for all the great tips. I figure I'll sand out as much rust as I can and cut out and replace the srusted seams. I have oxy\acet too and bought a mig last summer. I guess for patching recess the patch? Or if its flush I guess thast meansgrinding down the welds and using "finishing putty" to fill in the slight recesses? I bought some can't remember the exat name. Its in a tube like a toothopaste tube but bigger. I want this tub to be all steel before I take the time to put it on the frame.:)

Spedley
02-17-2010, 08:57 PM
Well, if your wanting this to be that pretty, dont flange/overlap the edges of the panels. When a bit of heat like from the sun hits it, the steel will expand slightly, and the areas where its 2x thick (edges of the patches) will show because of the differences in thickness. Butt the pieces together and hold them in with sheetmetal clamps. These can be made (what I have done) and you can buy them too. Called Cleco's... Google it.

godtool
02-18-2010, 06:39 AM
I guess if its a patch in the center of a panel you need to be inventive to how to hold the patch? I have a couple magnets I bought at Princess Auto. There is hardly any rust holes the outside of the tub. I'll need to patch the floor boards in a couple places and cut out that seem located under the tub under the front of the rear fender wells. I want to use metal rather the old ways of patching without welding. This jeep has a really HD rear rollbar so I want to hook into it to build a 6 point cage so the floor has to be good.

Since the jimmy frame is wider than the stock cj8 frame I was thinking of fastening the rollbar to the frame but what I would really like is where the cage goes under the seats horizontally so the driver\passenger are fully caged in and the seats are bolted to the cage. I bought a pair of Beard suspension seats a while back for this project. Thats the fantasy plan so far.... whoo hoo!

Just clearing out the garage to fit the jeep tub in one side. Hope to have it in next week. I just finished putting the dana 60 callipers on so I can get my Jimmy out for one last burn!

jackedup
02-18-2010, 08:21 PM
its a pretty clean tub you should have seen the fame looked like swiss cheese

Spedley
02-18-2010, 09:02 PM
These are the sheetmetal clamps I was talking about. I'll put up a post in the tech section for how they are made.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v386/Spedleysan/IMG_0540.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v386/Spedleysan/IMG_0539.jpg

godtool
02-19-2010, 08:17 AM
Yes the frame is toast in the mid section and I'll keep it for aiding in making the body mounts for the tub\jimmy frame. Never know, may use the frame in the far off future or sell it to someone:D .

Those clamps are SWEET! Very easy to make! Buddy was talking about using glass beads to sandblast with. As for using baking soda, my buddy thought that was different. I guess which ever texture you want on the metal. I guess sand would really pit the metal whereas baking soda leaves the metal ready to prime?!

85chevy
02-19-2010, 09:32 AM
http://www.manusabrasive.com/soda_abrasive.html and u don't have to clean it up[36]

Zukibuggy
02-19-2010, 09:34 PM
If you end up using a sandblaster on any area of a vehicle it would be best to get a proper hood instead of just a face shield.

Also expect the sand to go everywhere there is nooks and crannys; including on your body.

godtool
03-11-2010, 09:53 AM
So thanks for all the info. So if I butt weld a new panel into a hole, after I finishing welding it in I guess I grind the weld down just a hair below the surface, then fill it, sand it, etc?

godtool
07-10-2010, 09:00 AM
Just picked up a complete 86 Jimmy 6.2 Liter diesel 4x4 with a 700R4. Sounds very deep and sweet! Figured the diesel will be better on fuel than the 454. So I'm selling the 454 now.... A 6.2 liter diesl in a scrambler should be unique!