View Full Version : push rods

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 08:49 PM
i either bent a push rod or did somthing bad to the top end of my motor, it ticks now.
anybody know of a rough estimate as to how much a new rod will cost? and can i even buy a single push rod? or do i gotta buy a whole new set?
i want the cheapest route out of this dilema

01-10-2010, 08:57 PM
I just priced some out for my Jeep pushrods were $2 each, lifters were $6

01-10-2010, 08:58 PM
Push Rods are cheap last time i got a set they where in a box of 4 but might beable to get singles but might be a lifter or a valve. Doing burnouts??
Don't get cheap off shore stuff though

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 09:05 PM
well thats reashureing, no i was drinkin water and showin of my lack of exhaust to a buddy when the motor was cold, completely retarded

01-10-2010, 09:51 PM
ususlly pushrods dont jsut bend something else fails, lifter, rocker etc. got oil pressure lol? sbc rods are like 25 bux for 16

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 10:02 PM
ususlly pushrods dont jsut bend something else fails, lifter, rocker etc. got oil pressure lol? sbc rods are like 25 bux for 16

ugh well theres no oil pressure gauge in my car, so i couldnt tell ya. it just started ticking, but a distinct tickin, :confused:

01-10-2010, 10:09 PM
checked ur oil lately?

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 10:27 PM
just changed it yesterday before the carnage

01-10-2010, 10:29 PM
if its just one ticking, the oil pressure is fine, itf the whole things is clattering away there will be no oil pressure, turn your key on there will probably be an oil warning light that comes on for the bulb check. if its on when its running, u got no oil pressure., if it dont have a gauge i would be quite sure there is an idiot light

01-10-2010, 10:33 PM
Have yea driven it since probably go away once it gets to operating temp

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 10:33 PM
i think there is a light, either way, it hasnt came on. but how hard is it to fix this problem??

01-10-2010, 10:38 PM
Wouldn't consider it a problem yet might just go away

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 10:46 PM
so i should just continue to drive it without worries??
or maybe take the valve covers off to investagate????

01-10-2010, 10:57 PM
pull the v/c on the noisy side. you dont wanna run it if shit might be in the engine. does it have a miss or stumble now?

yoda thrills
01-10-2010, 11:07 PM
no, no miss or stumble,

01-10-2010, 11:20 PM
might just need to run it, sounds like maybe your abuse was hard on a lifter, but if it is running ok nothing should be terrible fucked. take the vc off have a look, then if it looks ok warm her up and drive it

dirka dave
01-11-2010, 09:55 AM
Go get V/C gskts.

Yours are leaking.

Call me when you get up, I'll have a look at it today for ya little buddy.

This might cost ya a Hiniken keg.....[cheers]

yoda thrills
01-12-2010, 11:22 PM
pull the v/c on the noisy side. you dont wanna run it if shit might be in the engine. does it have a miss or stumble now?
miss stumble...well i duno i could jus be jibbin out but it seems like it stumbles a bit after it up shifts into second... and today after werk i left whittrashs house and got to the lights about a few blocks down after i warmed up nd it stalled as i went to accelerate away from the intersection:confused:
i dont wanna fuck it more than it already is, i got some lifter or valve shit in a bottle from lordco 2day and it didnt do nothin

01-13-2010, 09:41 AM
Original Valvetrain in the motor or has it been replaced?

yoda thrills
01-13-2010, 10:03 PM
no idea man, as far a im concernd everything stock, my plan i sot try n tighten up the rockers, cause when i took the v/c's off there were a couple loose rockers but nothin uber loose, take v/c's off tighten em up ifthat odnt werk well then ima do the lifters push rods rocker nd yea... but that'll cost me $160 or so. cheap but either way i would like to spend no money so i can do exhaust

01-13-2010, 11:22 PM
You may as well do the cam if ur gonna do all the lifters if they are original they are a pain to get out and not to mention u could totally waste the money if they flaten the cam I ran in to the same problem with my truck. Had a noisy lifter with original cam and about 275,000km on the clock. Took the intake off hoping to locate the lifter but they were gummed up and didn't move to easily pretty sure it was only $180 for the Edelbrock cam and lifters. I did plan on going to a comp cams 4x4 cam but after looking at the specs there really wasn't much of a difference. Adds up when u get into all the gaskets but my fathers buddy said that you run the risk of the new lifters destroying the cam which in turn can destroy ur motor. Just some words of advice took up a bunch of my week off but truck runs great now only thing I wish I could of done was rebuild the heads while it was all apart but hey can't have everything. Only nice part about it was I was smart enough to buy all the tools I needed so that way next time i do it I have everything I need.

yoda thrills
01-13-2010, 11:32 PM
$180 for the edelbrokc cam, or cam n lifter? both yb edelbrock?? i got a new intake orderd, edelbrokc performer, should i go high rise or is it much diffrent?
i didnt bother talkin bout a cam tho that stuff kinda makes me nervous i have never gotten into that majour mechanical kinda stuff but either way if its that price well than why not, especially if the chances of the cam beein fucked are good, cause i am driving from whonnock to coquitlam, basically all i want is the motor to be back to where it was running and sounding fine, well better with the exhaust, but if the cam isnt such a bad idea or a waste of money fuckin rights im all in. and i'd may as well do some performance shit while im in there to right?
im priced out at under $200 for lifters rockers n rods with gaskets as well, i so im lookin at about6 bills or somewhere around there for the intake, lifter rocker n rods nd cam, lordco sed i can swap the intake to a 350 when the time comes, but fuck man, i'd rather be spendin the money on a 350 rather the 305....but w.e it needs ot be done, if dont need to do the cma i wont. i dont wanna dump money into a motor im going to be swapping out soon

01-13-2010, 11:56 PM
Ahh yea in that case no worries.

Basicly #2102 Performer Cam and lifters with break in lube I said $180 my bad I paid $150 my cost
U probably need the #3701 for egr I actually went with the #2701 I did look at the air gap one but it was like $80 more
Push Rods for me was $71 for Clevite didn't replace rocker arms did price out comp cam roller ones at I think it was $180 for the set of 16
I did my water pump think it was a brand new unit $41
Timing Gasket set was $26
Big money was the valve cover gaskets and 1 piece pan gasket for me but I don't by the cheap stuff u can save a few dollars if yea need to though

I mean really if the motor is good really what is the point of swapping in a 350. 305 can do yea fine till later on spend the money on other stuff like ur 4x4....