View Full Version : enigine swap question

12-13-2009, 07:00 AM
if i was to buy a 75 dodge with a 360 and take the motor out how hard will it be to put it in my 89 truck that has a 318.
the 75 is 2wd the 89 4wd 75 is carb 89 is tbi both auto's.

12-13-2009, 09:30 AM
Not hard. The heads would be a swirl port on the 89's, kind of desirable. As would be the tbi.

But you have the opportunity to rip out a whole bunch of emmissions hoses and crap if you go with a carb.

IMHO if I was to do it again, I would go with a big block swap. Would have cost me roughly the same.

I went with a 78 360 into a 85 that had a 225. I went all out on the engine though. It gets better mileage than my ford v10 driving in town.

12-13-2009, 03:32 PM
Hmmm well the 360 will bolt right in...but I would stick with the 318....the 360 is a has guzzling hog...you can use the throttle body from the 318 onto the 360 but you will have a little tuning to do (fuel pressure or injector size) in order to take advantage of the extra cubic inches. This is assuming headers to high flow cats and mufflers as well....Most of the linkages you will need are on the 318 and will swap over to the 360. Use the torque converter from the 360 into the tranny/transfer case from the 318...Good luck

12-13-2009, 03:58 PM
I would stick with the 318 but it giving me grief and only has 20000kms on a fresh rebuild. i find it turns 44's ok on pavement or gravel but when trying to climb shit it is a bit weak even with the 4'10s.. i am hoping the 360 will give me the little bit of extra power i need for offroad. can i use the carb or do i have to swap the intakes?

12-14-2009, 06:26 PM
You can use the carb...and it would likely work better carbureted anyway...what grief is the 318 giving you?

12-14-2009, 07:20 PM
black smoke and funny whining noise when it gets warmed up and sometime it says the oil pressures low then next time it says its fine.

12-15-2009, 08:12 PM
hmmm a couple of questions...is it easy starting or trouble...any engine codes?....factory gauge on the oil or aftermarket...i suspect something going on with the fuel pressure..as for the whining..try to find out where exactly the whining is coming from...front or back of the motor...Its tough to trouble shoot without standing right there....more info needed...and how low is low...and did it work ok just after the rebuild and eventually go this way or did it happen all of a sudden and if so what was happening at the time.

12-15-2009, 08:28 PM
starts easy idles fine when cold when warms up is starts puffing black smoke the whine noise comes from the back the engine the oil pressure is a factory gauge it goes to half way then drops to none, next time it stays at half, as for trouble codes i tried to get it to show me codes but it wont.
i have changed the fuel pressure regulator and every sensor besides the temp sensor and the o2 sensor.

12-16-2009, 04:26 AM
damn...try cleaning the egr......I wish you were in the mainland here....pull the distributor and check the bushing and the gear as well as the split pin the retains it...I"m starting to guess and I dont like to do that..

12-16-2009, 07:22 AM
what should i use to clean the egr with? as for pulling distibutor i dont feel confortable doing that.

12-16-2009, 04:52 PM
take out the egr and carefully clean as much carbon off the seat to make sure it seals....we were talking about your problem at lunch today and one of the guys thinks that it may be your intake temp sensor that is giving you trouble...hence the black smoke after it warms up, it thinks that the motor still needs the enrichment circuit