View Full Version : 82 Ford Ranger won't spark!

11-09-2009, 05:11 AM
Buddys truck just stalled in my driveway. We replaced the pick-up coil in the dist., the duraspark box, and the coil and still no spark at coil, HOWEVER, if I put a test light on the neg. side of the coil and buddy cranks it over, there is no flash of the test light, but as soon as he lets off on the key there is one flash of the test light. We did the same test with the main coil wire and only one short spark when he lets off on the key. Theres also this idle control box on the passenger fender which we have not replaced. I'm thinking a wire is grounding out in the steering column when hes trying to start it. Any help would be [36]

Its got a 2 liter in it. It would be nice if we just put an old type distributer to bypass all the electroinc stuff:p

11-09-2009, 05:51 PM
Is it a four cylinder?

11-10-2009, 05:54 AM
4 cylinder, pretty sure its a 2.0 Liter, as the rad support decal says 2.0. It was running fine before. Lots of vacum lines disconnected so maybe a different engine?? So I found out its an 85 Ranger not an 82. Also researched the ignition components, learned about PIP and SPOUT:p . Buddy got a duraspark unit from a truck (351 V8) from the local wrecker. We then found out from FORD that the duraspark boxes are wired differently for the 4 banger since I could see the wires went into the 2 boxes in different places even though both boxes had a 2 wire plug and a 4 wire plug. The wrecker guy said as long as the boxe are the same - a 2 wire plug and a 4 wire plug it would work. I guess he was wrong:mad: . So buddy is getting a brand new box today and we will try it again[36] .

11-10-2009, 01:08 PM
i towed that thing from town, it could be a fuseable link, sounds like its not getting power while cranking?

11-11-2009, 06:53 AM
Turned out the timing belt was broken:p . So.. we fixed that and discovered the engine would only fire or run with the key in the "starter position". So we ran a wire from the battery to the little post on the starter relay (solenoid). So to start the truck, we would turn the key to ignition on, then disconnect small wire on solenoid to battery wire, and touch both to the little post so the starter would come on and then once it was running keep the battery wire hooked to the little wire.... this is so confusing... call me when you get to your shop:confused0006: Bill managed to drive it home so now he has wheels! This is what Ray Felker told us to do to hotwire the truck. I still think the duraspark box is shorted out....:dontknow:

11-18-2009, 06:19 AM
So this is what works
To keep engine running we:
1. turn key to "on"
2. Disconnect wire from "s" post of starter relay.
3. run 12 volt jumper wire from battery to wire that attaches to "s" post of starter relay.
4. quickly touch these joined wires to "s" post on starter relay, engine cranks, starts and continues to run.
5. to turn engine off either turn off key or disconnect jumper wire from battery. Either way, disconnect jumper wire from battery before leaving truck.

So my freind Steve emailed me yesterday andsays:

If I remember correctly, this system used an MCU module mounted in the engine compartment to control the carburetor air/ fuel ratio. It used an older style Dura spark ignition module (the square box mounted on the fender well). My wiring diagrams for these older models are not as good as I would like them to be, but I believe I can assist you in repairing your truck. There are two power supplies to the ignition module and the ignition coil, one during cranking (bypass) and another during key on. When you jumper the starter solenoid as you describe, you are applying power to the cranking bypass circuit at all times. From your description, I suspect that you have lost the power that you should have during key on. Disconnect the ignition coil connector. At the coil positive terminal (red/ light green wire), check to see if you have power during key on. If you don't, then we need to determine where it has been lost. If you do have power there, then disconnect the ignition module connector and check to see if you have power at the red wire with key on.

11-23-2009, 07:07 AM
All fixed with a bit of wiring changes between the coil and duraspark box. However the coil is now getting the full 12-14 volts when running since there is a resistor wire under the dash that drops the voltage from the ignition to the coil when running so the coil does not burn out prematurely. So we will keep an extra coil on hand. Buddy says his truck is just running super now, better than before!!! I guess with more power to coil more spark at plugs;)


11-23-2009, 07:27 AM
Frig that's confusing hahaha.... thanks for taking the time to write that up tho haha