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Apathy
09-18-2009, 08:43 AM
Okay,
couple days ago i was driving home and my front brakes started to growl.
sounded like it was metal on metal.

so i got it home, jacked it up, pulled the brakes to have a look.. Yup, Inner on the drivers side was done. not metal on metal, but really close to it.

The rotors were OK.. should have been turned, but i've run rotors in much worse condition (they had some "smooth" ridges,,but nothing to worry about)

so i just get a set of cheap pads (intend on doing a complete brake job when money allows as this is my tow rig) and put them in.

Drivers side lower pin was froze, so i fixed that. passengers side upper pin was not froze, but needed some love.. fixed that.
Greased up the pins well, everything moved smoothly. I checked the calipers and the pistons were free, working well.


SO, i take it for a drive after doing this work, hit the brakes and GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.. WTF?. The seam to be dragging a bit as well (but not binding) I can let my foot off the brake at a stop and it will start rolling so i know the pistons are not froze up. (in additoin to the previous inspection).

I drive it to work to day, and it seams like it was gettnig better, but hard to tell.
Aslo, when i got to work, i put my had back around the tire and felt the rotors.. DAMN hot. Much hotter than i would have expected.

I'm going to pull them back off tonight and see WTF.. But I've done Dozens of brake jobs over the years, cheaper pads, worse rotors and i've never had this issue.

Could it be that the new brake pads just need to wear into the old rotors?

I'm really puzzled on this one..

All positive input is welcome.[cheers]

Reeseman
09-18-2009, 09:23 AM
[quote=Pathy;1446885]Okay,
couple days ago i was driving home and my front brakes started to growl.
sounded like it was metal on metal.

so i got it home, jacked it up, pulled the brakes to have a look.. Yup, Inner on the drivers side was done. not metal on metal, but really close to it.

The rotors were OK.. should have been turned, but i've run rotors in much worse condition (they had some "smooth" ridges,,but nothing to worry about)

so i just get a set of cheap pads (intend on doing a complete brake job when money allows as this is my tow rig) and put them in.

Drivers side lower pin was froze, so i fixed that. passengers side upper pin was not froze, but needed some love.. fixed that.
Greased up the pins well, everything moved smoothly. I checked the calipers and the pistons were free, working well.


SO, i take it for a drive after doing this work, hit the brakes and GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR.. WTF?. The seam to be dragging a bit as well (but not binding) I can let my foot off the brake at a stop and it will start rolling so i know the pistons are not froze up. (in additoin to the previous inspection).

I drive it to work to day, and it seams like it was gettnig better, but hard to tell.
Aslo, when i got to work, i put my had back around the tire and felt the rotors.. DAMN hot. Much hotter than i would have expected.

I'm going to pull them back off tonight and see WTF.. But I've done Dozens of brake jobs over the years, cheaper pads, worse rotors and i've never had this issue.

Could it be that the new brake pads just need to wear into the old rotors?

I'm really puzzled on this one..

All positive input is welcome.[cheers][/
You have a caliper draging it needs to be replaced. Those truchs hate cheap pads you need to run good ones in it. Call me if you have nay questions. 778 558 0316. done hundreds of super duty brakes.

Apathy
09-18-2009, 09:35 AM
no, the caliper is not dragging.

why would it start dragging only after i changed the pads.


maybe its the cheap pads, but i don't have 100 bucks right now to put the good ones on. and get new rotors.

Reeseman
09-18-2009, 11:55 AM
no, the caliper is not dragging.

why would it start dragging only after i changed the pads.


maybe its the cheap pads, but i don't have 100 bucks right now to put the good ones on. and get new rotors.
then why is it getting so hot? some times when you push the pistons back in they can get hung up and not let go fully

BCBronco
09-18-2009, 02:47 PM
most likely the cheap pads try fords motocraft version there not to expensive they go for 77.00 +tax up here

fordpower
09-18-2009, 05:14 PM
I agree with reeseman.... its probably the caliper. I just had the same thing on my grandfathers truck... would not seize up all the time but would now and then.... it also pushed back fine and all too... i replaced it and all is good... cheers

Apathy
09-19-2009, 06:33 AM
both calipers screwed up at teh same time..

Hmm....what are the odds. If thats the case, they are staying there for the time.

I just don't have 300 bucks to redo the brakes completely.

pumpkin
09-19-2009, 08:30 AM
Does the brake pedal feel spoungee, kinda like air in the hydraulics? If so its bad pads. If not then something is causing the brakes to hold on to tight. Calipers or flex hoses. With the front wheels of the ground, push on the brake pedal, when you release the brakes check to see if the wheels turn easily. If they don't something is causeing too much drag.

blacker_69
09-19-2009, 11:59 AM
did you put the separator springs back in? and are the 4 metal inserts for each side there? after market ones can jam the pads on the saddle mimicking said seized caliper.

Apathy
09-20-2009, 07:44 AM
i pulled it all apart again yesterday.

springs are all good and correctly installed.

I can push the pistons in by hand. they are not siezed.

what i did find though, was the very edge of brake pad (inner radius) is rubbing on a point that the old pads were not touching. therefore the pad is rubbing on a non machined old rusty surface at the edge of the rotor (inner radius not outer) its hitting about 1mm into the pad on each side.
Teh old pads were ever so slightely narrower than the new ones.,

I believe this is my issue. If so, turning them should solve it.

Reeseman
09-20-2009, 09:19 PM
i pulled it all apart again yesterday.

springs are all good and correctly installed.

I can push the pistons in by hand. they are not siezed.

what i did find though, was the very edge of brake pad (inner radius) is rubbing on a point that the old pads were not touching. therefore the pad is rubbing on a non machined old rusty surface at the edge of the rotor (inner radius not outer) its hitting about 1mm into the pad on each side.
Teh old pads were ever so slightely narrower than the new ones.,

I believe this is my issue. If so, turning them should solve it.
Well there you go.

bocephusjr
09-29-2009, 01:28 PM
Well there you go.
definatly sounded like the caliper piston hung up good diagnose there doc

Apathy
09-29-2009, 02:25 PM
they are all better now.

just road the brakes for a bit.. wore them in.

stopps gooder

Toyquad
09-29-2009, 02:55 PM
cheap fixes are good!

In The Zone
10-04-2009, 10:24 AM
I got nothin to say u fixed it....for now..

Apathy
10-06-2009, 01:47 AM
I got nothin to say u fixed it....for now..

Yup and here in about a month or so, its going to get a full on brake job.

I just didn't have a choice.
when your broke, youir broke.