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Little Samurai
07-30-2009, 09:57 PM
I recently had to replace the Park/Signal Light Assemblies in the front of the 'Zuk and decided to go LED now since I may do a custom front bumper one day anyway. As expected I ended up having to troubleshoot the fast flash due to the stock relay not sensing the LED's in the signal circuit. Do you think I could find any information on-line as to which electronic relay I would need to remedy this? Well after buying the wrong one (EP35) I emailed Tridon in the states and got the right part number, EP34. All works well now but just as a technical note for this forum:

If doing an LED conversion on your 'Zuk you need to get the EP34 Flasher to remedy the fast flash/burnt bulb indicator.

dirka dave
07-30-2009, 11:19 PM
I did the same thing in my 82' Toy.


Its a relay with an extra ground on it right ?

Little Samurai
07-30-2009, 11:46 PM
Nope it is the same pinout as the stock one just electronic instead if mechanical inside. The problem with the EP35 is that the pinout is different even though there are 3 blades. If anyone needs an EP35 I got no use for it.

eklro
07-31-2009, 01:43 PM
Its because the forward load of the LEDs is too low right?, if you tagged a regular lamp or resister in there would it work properly with the stock relay? I just like to have a ghetto backup. What kind of LEDs did you use?

Little Samurai
08-03-2009, 05:43 PM
I used oval 6", clear lens, amber LED's. You could use resistors to correct the problem if you like electrical fires. Resistors dissipate the excess load they are creating in the form of heat...heat that can and will eventually break down the insulation on the surrounding wires and one day... your rig is on fire!!!!![36] The relay swap is just a safer way to do it and it only costs 20 bucks and takes like 15 seconds to put in.[cheers]

eklro
12-30-2009, 01:51 PM
Latest reply ever.
Resistors don't quite work that way. You just need something small to bleed out the standard relay like 1/4 watt 500 ohm which sinks about 24 to 28 miliamps on a 12V-14V system. Also its a blinker, even if you used a conventional bulb or cigarette lighter as your sink, you wont start any fires. LEDs simply lose all continuity when their voltage drops below their forward bias so, unlike an incandescent bulb, the relay will not have a chance to dissipate its field in time. Most of the LED friendly flash relays are is a standard relay with a resistor inside of them.

Little Samurai
12-30-2009, 03:27 PM
Latest reply ever.
Resistors don't quite work that way. You just need something small to bleed out the standard relay like 1/4 watt 500 ohm which sinks about 24 to 28 miliamps on a 12V-14V system. Also its a blinker, even if you used a conventional bulb or cigarette lighter as your sink, you wont start any fires. LEDs simply lose all continuity when their voltage drops below their forward bias so, unlike an incandescent bulb, the relay will not have a chance to dissipate its field in time. Most of the LED friendly flash relays are is a standard relay with a resistor inside of them.

I agree with the above information however it is the way that some people install the resistors which causes the problem of burnt up wiring. Quite a few people will bundle them back against the jacket (insulation) of the wiring, over time this can lead to breakdown of the insulation to the point of failure and possible fire. You seem to know your electronics though.[cheers]

eklro
01-03-2010, 08:23 PM
Whenever you are bored, give it a try. 500 Ohm in parallel will simply not get hot enough. If you use a 500 ohm 1/4 watt with a brake light, it will burn out because 1/4 watt is not enough for 12 volts at 500 Ohm constantly (~288 milliwatts instead of 250) and 1/4 Watt resistors die before they get hot.. but yeah if you have a 1W or more you will notice more heat. I have a potentiometer to tweak my blinker rate and its a 1/2 watt.